The Chassagne-Montrachet Les Macherelles 2010 from Jean-Claude Bachelet is a delightful effort. In the bouquet lively and ripe yellow fruit – presented by a citrus infused Chassagne minerality and a decent touch of oak. On the palate quite weighty fruit – pure and crisp – focused by a powerful acidity and a lovely minerality from this relatively unknown terroir located under Les Vergers. This is a classic, pure and transparent Chassagne – love the energy and 2010 power … gorgeous.
The 2011 Meursault from Benjamin Leroux is a quite impressive effort. The nose offer fresh and pure notes of citrus, pear with hints of apple and some more exotic orchard fruits. On the palate quite rich and rounded with a lovely balance and depth. The minerality offer a nice support in the finish adding to the complexity … according to my sources it’s made 100% from the delightful Crotots terroir (located just below Porusot). A very good Meursault from Leroux.
Photo by Frederik Kreutzer
Sadly quite premoxed … however not totally undrinkable.
Need to mention that Etienne de Montille is one of the few producers who has been quite open and forward about the premox problems. He really deserves some credit for his open approach … others could learn a great deal from this … no need to mention names!
I really enjoy a good Aligote … and the 2012 vintage seem to be a fine year for these slightly overlooked wines. The transparent and slightly rich fruit of the vintage seem to be a perfect match for the spicy acidity in the Aligote. The Pacalet Aligote 2012 has a crisp and zappy nose with lovely citrus and a nice spicy note from the aligote grape infused with minerality. On the palate fresh and vibrant with a lively airy fruit … love the energy and the focusing acidity. A crisp and fresh aligote … just the way I like it.
The Chablis Les Clos from Samuel Billaud is a big and quite dense effort. The nose is quite interesting with very expressive yellow orchard fruits … slightly exotic and spiced by a very delicate and vibrant minerality. On the palate rich and intense with a quite dense feel … some aspargus notes … and a slightly monolithic expression .. just like quite many 04 white Burgundies. It’s a big and good wine .. but lacking a bit of nerve in my view.
The “R” Meursault village 2010 from Jean-Marc Roulot is a truly gorgeous effort. The bouquet is very expressive with crisp orchard fruits and a beautiful citrus driven minerality. It’s perhaps a bit more openly knit than the domaine Meursaults from Roulot … but very charming and forward. On the palate lovely quite openly knit fruit … very good weight and length for this level … and very focused by the excellent acidity and a fine minerality. A very impressive and lovely village Meursault.
The Nuits-Saint-Georges Les Terrasses Blanc is a very interesting wine. It’s made from the village part of the climate Les Crots – on terraces above the Chateau Gris estate. The soil is limestone and this gives the wine a quite unique style compared to other whites from Nuits-Saint-Georges. In the nose fresh notes of citrus, white orchard fruits and a chalky minerality. On the palate quite rich and broad with a lovely fruit and a intense but very harmonious minerality. The acidity is crisp and with a good energy. It’s very balanced with a good inner harmony, and without the slightly edgy minerality found in some whites from this appellation. Check this out!
The 2011 Savigny Les vergelesses from Dublere is a nice effort. Lovely expressive bouquet with notes of ripe yellow orchard fruits, citrus and a crunchy minerality. On the palate quite rich with a lovely midpalate weight for this level. It’s very harmonious and expressive for what it is … with a nice focus and energy. Quite impressed by the complexity and intensity …. for this level.
The Aligote 2012 from Pacalet is a lovely vibrant effort. Crisp and zappy nose with lovely citrus and a nice spicy note from the aligote grape and the minerality. On the palate fresh and vibrant with a lively focused fruit … love the energy and focusing acidity. A crisp and fresh aligote … very enjoyable.
The Chablis Montmains 1er cru from Maison Romane is in my view not a fine effort. In the nose slightly reduced, with yellow orchard fruits and hints of pineapple and peach .. somewhat oxidative and yeasty. On the palate rich and very aromatic, with a quite powerful acidic framework … also here slightly oxidative. Is lacking some vibrant freshness and energy with its rich and dense flavors … not really my kind of Chablis.
The Bourgogne Blanc 2011 from Domaine Fourrier is a quite intense wine for this level. The nose offers ripe and quite dense aromas of peach, apricot almonds and white flowers … slightly oxidative. On the palate rich and ripe with a slightly dense expression … a bit oxidative – lacking a some of energy and vibrant freshness in the fruit. The acidity is quite crisp and partly make up for the slightly dense fruit – not all bad .. but to be honest not my kind of white Burgundy.
Very badly premoxed – undrinkable.
The Puligny-Montrachet Les Pucelles 2000 from Domaine Leflaive is approaching maturity. In the nose expressive yellow fruit with notes of hazelnuts and almonds … spiced with a lovely citrus infused minerality. On the palate fine power and weight for the vintage – intense and balanced with a delicate support from the terroir. The acidity is good rather than impressive … but sufficient to give the wine a vibrant freshness. A lovely harmonious effort – a slight bottle variation though.
The Ambroise Corton Charlie 2001 is a powerful effort. In the nose yellow fruits, green apple – spiced with almonds, fennel and a stony minerality. On the palate tight, pure and intense with a very strong acidic backbone and a crunchy minerality. It’s slightly monolithic at the moment and need time to resolve and fully integrate the oak. A serious wine … would give it 5 years more in the cellar – a fine rather than great Charlie.
The 1996 wines from Domaine Leflaive are showing great at the moment – and the Combette is no exception. The nose is very complex with lovely mature notes of yellow fruits, almonds and hazelnuts, spiced with coffee and a citrus infused minerality. On the palate rich and intense fruit supported by the fantastically vibrant and crisp 1996 acidity. The finish is long and very powerful for this level … very impressive. Can’t quite match Les Pucelles 96 though – but the rich and somewhat openly knit style of Combettes is a perfect match for the vintage. A gorgeous mature white Burgundy …. the 1996 Leflaives are just great.
Old wines should be treated with respect and given the appropriate time to resolve in the glas. This is true for most wines, but especially old white Burgundies can be misunderstood and wasted if they are not given sufficient time in the glas. This bottle of 1986 Meursault Charmes from Bouchard Pere et Fils seemed tired and slightly oxidative when it was poured … and it took at least 10 – 15 minutes in the glass before it started to show it’s qualities. After quite some time in the glass it showed the most lovely mature complexity combined with a delightful vibrant freshness. In the nose yellow fruit, acacia, almonds and hazelnuts with notes of orange zest and coffee. On the palate pure and quite crisp, with a lovely balance and weight. It’s not a big wine, but a perfectly mature old white Burgundy … with all the qualities an old white Burgundy should possess … but rarely have.
The 2002 Meursault Goutte D’Or from Comte Lafon is really showing well. In the bouquet delicate yellow fruit with a fine citrus infused filigree stony minerality. On the palate fresh and vibrant fruit with fine weight and length – very well balanced with a lovely acidity. Love the freshness and the airy nerve in this wine … pure, crisp and so refined for the level. A lovely matured Meursault … will keep …. but beautiful now – so why wait.
The Batard Montrachet 2010 from Domaine Ramonet is a true beauty. The bouquet is crammed with orchard fruit, acacia and a delightful focusing minerality – so refined and pure. On the palate rich and quite intense fruit with a filigree and refined backbone of minerality and acidity. It’s perfectly balanced, transparent and airy woth excellent concentration and length. Perhaps not as weighty as the Batard from Leflaive … but the purity and refinement is delightful and very impressive. A absolutely gorgeous and stunning wine.
The Coche-Dury Meursault 2011 is a lovely energetic and vibrant wine. In the bouquet hay, pear, melon with beautiful citrus infused minerality and a suitable impression of oak – classic Coche!. On the palate fine and harmonious fruit with a vibrant minerality for this level and a crisp acidity. Very good length and focus for a village. A gorgeous wine from the king of Meursault – impressive.
This wine is most likely produced on the vineyard Les Narvaux, one of the 4 or 5 single vineyard Meursault sold as Coche Dury Meursault.
The 2002 Meursault Clos de la Barre from Comte Lafon is normally a very good wine. This bottle was however somewhat disappointing. The bouquet was quite develoed for a 02 with buttery notes and hints of almonds, hazelnuts and citrus. On the palate a bit dense with good fruit and weight – but sadly also tainted with slight hints of oxidation. Lacking some freshness and nerve … but still drinkable.