The Coche-Dury Corton-Charlemagne 1993 is one of the best and most refined white Burgundies I have ever tasted. The nose is offering a fantastic and almost elusive complexity – white and yellow fruit, delicate nuances of hazelnuts, gunpowder, flint and a very filigree minerality. Matured but still fresh and vibrant. On the palate intense airy fruit – very focused and long with a almost zen like balance – effortless and yet so complex and layered with myriads of filigree details and aromas. The powerful focusing acidity is crisp and fresh. Not a blockbuster – but a extremely refined and intense wine – in a sense somewhat surprising when the expressive style of the domaine meets a terroir like Corton-Charlemagne. A absolutely gorgeous and magnificent wine … love it … and I lack words to describe the delicacy of this delightful Corton Charlie!
The Meursault Perrieres 2004 was sadly somewhat premoxed. In the nose clear signs of oxidation, but also quite rich fruit – showing a bit of what could have been a very fine wine. On the palate quite rich and mellow – but with signs of oxidation – and a sharp acidity kick in the finish. Lacking both freshness and display of terroir.
The Meursault Charmes 2010 from Antoine Jobard is a truly delightful effort. The nose is classic with quite expressive notes of melon, white peach, acacia, spiced with a discrete citrus infused minerality. On the palate rich and generous – with amble fruit focused by a fine acidity and a fine minerality for this terroir. Very harmonious and forward – a beautiful Meursault Charmes – from one of my favorite producers of white Burgundy.
The Saint-Aubin Les Combes 2012 from Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey is really showing well. The nose is crammed with rich orchard fruits spiced with a citrus infused minerality. On the palate rich and weighty fruit … lovely nerve and energy. The finish is long with a delightful minieralic focus. A weigthy and powerful Saint-Aubin … lovely juice.
The Meursault Clos de la Barre 2007 from Lafon is showing well. Attractive fresh bouquet … white fruit, pear, apple … spiced with seashells and a citrus infused minerality. On the palate focused crisp with a lovely fresh acidity and a nice mineralic kick in the finish. Really like the defined focus and energy in this Meursault … a beautiful effort … lovely now – drink while it still have a vibrant freshness,
After a week with some discussions about premox and some rather interesting views on drinking windows for white Burgundies
I really began to wonder … what is the expected lifespan for a village Meursault these days … should it age for 10 years in the cellar or should it be consumed within the first 5 years?
And yes I know there is big differences between the producers and the vintages … but nevertheless its a topic I have been thinking quite a lot about in recent years.
This bottle of Meursault Clos de la Barre 05 from Lafon was sadly quite badly premoxed. Dark yellow color. In the bouquet apples, some acacia … oxidized and slightly maderized. On the palate .. still quite rich … but fading fruit … acidity quite forward in the finish. Fading in the glass … too bad.
The Auxey-Duresses Les Boutonniers 2010 from Lafouge is a very good effort for this level. The nose is slightly closed but still display a lovely selection of white and more exotic orchard fruits – supported by a nice discrete minerality. On the palate lovely effortless balance – very fine weight for this level. Not a big wine … but it’s very well made and offer delightful drinking. Will keep .. but why wait?
The Meursault Les Perrieres 2007 from Chateau de Puligny-Montrachet is quite forward and developed .. but showing well. The nose is crammed with yellow fruit – notes of apples and hazelnuts spiced with a discrete citrus infused minerality. On the palate rich, quite intense and weighty with a nice vibrant acidity … good energy and balance. A very good wine … but quite developed … and somehow a bit disappointing for the terroir and the vintage..
The Chassagne Clos St. Jean 2006 from Amiot Guy is a good but typical effort for the vintage. The nose is very expressive with weighty yellow fruit .. rich with what seems to be more than a hint of botrytis. On the palate same story … rich and quite developed with a significant impression of botrytis. Its a quite balanced wine with a nice freshness but also a quite high alcohol level. On the rich side for my palate … not really happy about the white 06s … but this is nevertheless quite enjoyable now.
The 2007 Puligny Les Combettes from Domaine Leflaive is quite forward and rather developed. The nose is displaying layers of yellow fruit, notes of apple, melon – rich, slightly buttery – but supported by a lovely minerality. On the palate quite rich and developed with some buttery notes – beautifully focused and balanced by the linear 2007 acidity. Should a Les Combettes 2007 show this degree of maturity at this stage .. not really – in my view. Nevertheless a lovely glass of Puligny now – but would not try 5 years of additional cellaring for this example.
The Blanchots-Dessus is among the most powerful of the Chassagne vineyards. The 2012 edition of the Blanchots-Dessus is nevertheless a quite refined effort from this intense vineyard. In the bouquet rich and slightly dense yellow orchard fruit – balanced by a citrus infused minerality. On the palate rich almost silky but with a strong minerality boosting the wine. Its quite refined and light-footed for a Blanchots-Dessus and offer a rich and powerful side of the Chassagene wines. Normally a bit on the rich side for my palate – but with the purity and refinement of the 2012 vintage – this wine somehow is spot on for a rich and powerful Chassagne.
The Bourgogne Blanc 2002 from Domaine Comte de Vogüé is showing very well now. The nose is bursting with layers of tightly knit yellow fruit – hints of apple, hazelnuts and refreshed by a citrus infused filigree minerality. On the palate surprisingly weighty and intense with a lovely nerve and focus. This bottle could improve with 5 years more in the cellar … but is showing beautifully now. Love the fruit intensity and the focusing minerality from the great Musigny terroir.
The Chassagne-Montrachet Les Masures (village) is a step up from Les Chaumes – although its slightly closed at the moment. The nose is showing signs of reduction – but one can still appreciate the lovely white orchard fruits and the quite delicate minerality. On the palate more refined and focused with a quite delicate fruit and structure for this level. Really loved this effort for its delicate display of Chassagne terroir – needs time to unfold though.
The Chassagne-Montrachet Les Chaumes (village) is a classic wine from the appellation. In the nose rich orchard fruits … forward and charming … focused by a citrus driven minerality. On the palate good weight for this level – focused by a quite crisp acidity and a nice minerality for this level. Love the freshness in this wine … a honest and quite vibrant Chassagne village.
The Chevalier-Montrachet 2008 from Bouchard is a gorgeous effort. In the bouquet layers of lovely yellow fruit spiced with a very fine citrus infused minerality. On the palate rich and vibrant yellow fruit .. airy but intense .. focused by a powerful minerality and the energetic 08 acidity. A beautifully balanced Chevalier with a wonderful expression of terroir.
The Chenevottes is quite a step up from the village level – very expressive and quite rich. In the nose rich and intense orchard fruits – with hints of some more tropical fruits – all brought forward by a citrusy and flinty minerality. On the palate rich, quite openly knit with a lovely fresh acidity and a playful minerality. Love the extrovert fruit and display of flinty minerality – always a treat to taste the Chenevottes from this house.
The Morgeot Les Petits Clos is a more masculine wine than many of the other Chassagne 1er crus – but the 2012 edition of this wine is surprisingly refined and delicate. In the nose very pure white and yellow orchard fruits – notes of pear, apricots – hints of white flowers … infused with a quite powerful citrusy minerality. On the palate very harmonious and refined for a Morgeot – the fruit is very pure and delicate and somehow the minerality seem more refined and filigree than seen in earlier vintages of this wine. A very elegant and delicate Morgeot – impressive.
I have a soft spot for the Chaumees vineyard – with it’s limestone minerality and balance. In the nose its very extrovert with a bit more sweetness in the fruit than the Chenevottes – notes of yellow fruit with hints of peach, pineapple and hazelnuts. On the palate very harmonious and delicate with a rich but airy fruit – effortless and quite refined for this level – displaying the fine qualities of this vintage. Just love this vineyard!
There are many fine vineyards in Chassagne-Montrachet – but Les Caillerets is in my view in a league of its own. The 2012 Caillerets from Jean-Nöel Gagnard confirms this status. The nose is delicately refined with airy white orchard fruit and a filigree citrus infused minerality. On the palate very refined pure fruit – airy and delicate – with an almost creamy texture. The acidity is fresh and crisp and offer a perfect balance to the rich cool fruit and the filigree minerality. Effortless refinement – adore this terroir and this wine.