The Vosne-Romanee Les Petits-Monts 2012 from Sirugue represent another step up in quality for Domaine Sirugue. The bouquet is offering pure juicy red fruit … intense with lovely Vosne minerality and spices – notes of violets, peony rose and a hint of oak. On the palate layers of rich fruit – medium weight – focused by a lovely minerality. A very charming effort with a lovely expression of Vosne terroir – a delightful 1er cru.
The Charmes-Chambertin 2013 from Pacalet is a fine effort … allthough not quite at the same level as the gorgeous Ruchottes-Chambertin. The bouquet is offering quite intense red and dark fruit … rich and vibrant with a lovely earthy minerality. On the palate rich and weighty red berry fruit … powerful and intense with a lovely balance and focus. Lacking a bit of refinement compared to the Ruchottes … but nevertheless a lovely glass of pinot.
The Echezeaux 2013 from Pacalet is a impressively intense effort – the grand cru terroirs really suits this powerfully stuctured vintage. The bouquet is offering intense red and dark fruit … Vosne spices… tight and serious with a powerful underlying minerality. On the palate tightly knit and powerful, with a intense midpalate fruit and a focusing slightly edgy minerality. A big quite muscular wine with more power than one normally find in wines from Pacalet. Will require quite some time to unfold completely.
The Lavaux Saint Jacques 2012 from Pacalet is showing beautifully. The nose is crammed with layers of vibrant red fruit … very juicy with notes of strawberries, pomegranate and raspberries – spiced with allspice and pepper and a deep earthy mineralty. The palate offer a focusing core of ripe and pure coulis fruit – adding depth to the mulitible layers of energetic red fruit. The finish is long – with a refined display of terroir – giving a zen-like balance to the wine. A truly beautiful wine!
The Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Saint-Jacques 1996 from Jadot has entered a lovely semi-matured stage. The bouquet is expressive offering a nice selection of red and dark berries spiced with tar, truffles and sous-bois. The sweeter red fruit is tanking over – but still some unresolved dark fruit. On the palate excellent fruit .. quite rich and very well stuctured by the powerful 96 acidity .. still a core of unresolved dark fruit. A gorgeous wine with a lovely airy balance .. beautiful complexity .. a classic … need 5 years more to show the full potential.
Gevrey-Chambertin Les Cherbaudes is a new terroir for me … but hopefully this is not the last time I taste a Fourrier from this vineyard. This relatively unknown terroir is located in a sweetspot just below Mazis-Chambertin and Fourrier has a 0.67 ha plot planted in 1940. The nose is bursting with layers of red and dark berry fruit … pure, organic and juicy with a lovely earthy mineralty. On the palate rich and vibrant with a lovely energy and tension. Love the fruit expression and the terroir offer depth and complexity … a lovely wine.
The Vosne Malconsorts cuvee Christiane from de Montille is a refined and delicate wine. The nose is quite expressive with notes of red fruit, spiced with notes of rose petals, soy, asian spices and a filigree earthy minerality. On the palate medium weight with layers of red fruit … its not a big and dense wine … but has a refined persistence and intensity. The acidity is crisp adding a fine energy to the organic fruit. Need time to unfold but is not a wine for 20 years of cellaring. A delicate almost fragile Vosne Malconsorts.
The 2004 Aux Reignots from Grivot is a very impressive effort for the vintage. The nose is currentlybslightly closed showing lovely cool red berry fruit supported by hints of oak and a spicy minerality .. some matured notes. on the palate lovely cool and weighty fruit … not fully resolved yet .. with a solid core of darker fruits. It’s very balanced and beautifully focused by the lovely minerality … refined and impressive. A lovely effort – need time to resolve the last core of dark and youthful fruit …
The Amoureuses 2004 from Vogüé has entered a lovely matured stage with expressive red fruit, with a lovely balance and delicacy. The bouquet starts out discretely but the red fruits quite rapidly takes over in the glass – with notes of cherries, forest strawberries and raspberries … spiced with a hint of cinnamon and a ample Chambolle minerality. On the palate lovely resolved red fruit … almost suave with a initial rich mouthcoating feel … then perfectly balanced by the fine acidity and the strong mineralic framework. A gorgeous 2004 … adore this terroir.
The Morgeot Les Petits Clos is a more masculine wine than many of the other Chassagne 1er crus – but the 2012 edition of this wine is surprisingly refined and delicate. In the nose very pure white and yellow orchard fruits – notes of pear, apricots – hints of white flowers … infused with a quite powerful citrusy minerality. On the palate very harmonious and refined for a Morgeot – the fruit is very pure and delicate and somehow the minerality seem more refined and filigree than seen in earlier vintages of this wine. A very elegant and delicate Morgeot – impressive.
The Gevrey-Chambertin Bel Air 2012 from Pacalet is showing great form.
The nose is bursting with red coulis fruit – raspberries, strawberrie and pomegranate – spiced white peppar and a slight citrus note. On the palate quite forward with a intense core of fruit and vibrant earthy minerality. The minerality is both powerful and deep … bringing a lovely nerve and focus to the wine. I really love this slightly overlooked terroir … very energetic and juicy.
The Echezeaux 2011 from Mugneret-Gibourg is a lovely but quite tightly knit effort. In the nose red and dark cherries, hints of elderberries and a nice view of terroir. On the palate focused and tightly knit … fruit is slightly closed already … showing the classic MG cherry notes. Its a lovely Echezeaux … but it need time to unfold its charm.
The Corton Charlie 2012 from Bouchard is a delightful effort. On the nose fine citrus infused minerality and a lovely fresh and refined fruit – white orchard fruits with notes of pear and apple. On the palate quite some weight and richness but with a effortless freshness and verve. Really like the combination of the rich 2012 fruit and the powerful structure from the Charlie terroir. Bouchard did a fine job on the Corton hill in this vintage.
The Porusot is a step up in mineralic intensity from the village wines … in its own slightly edgy way. The nose offers an equal balance between white and yellow orchard fruits infused by a citrusy deep minerality. On the palate quite ample deep fruit supported by a quite powerful slightly rustic minerality. This is a forward and powerful Meursault .. forward with a slightly rustic charm … refinement is just not the strong point of this terroir. Nevertheless a lovely wine.
The Echezeaux 2011 from Cecile Tremblay is a gorgeously vibrant wine. The nose is quite expressive with lovely forward fruit – notes of cherries, raspberries .. hints of plum, earthy minerality and a hint of toasted oak. On the palate silky quite openly knit fruit … forward and juicy with a nice weight and transparancy. Love the juicy fruit and the fine minerality … a delightful Echezeaux.
The Meursault Tesson 2012 is a step up in concentration and intensity from the Les Luchets. In the bouquet deeper and more intense fruit .. balanced more toward the intense yellow fruit … with a deep more powerful minerality underneath the ample fruit. On the palate … same story layers of deep and quite powerful fruit on the midpalate .. brought forward by a deeply constituted minerality and a crisp and focusing acidity. A truly fine Meursault in the making … this is clearly in 1er cru territory?
The Vosne-Romane Les Beaux Monts 2012 from Georges Noellat is slightly more backward than the delicate Les Petits Monts. The nose is offering juicy red and dark berry fruit, a discretely perfumed Vosne spicyness and touch of oak. On the palate fine intensity with a delightful silky and pure fruit. Love the rich and refined expression of the 2012 fruit … juicy and silky. In my view quite evenly matched with the Petits Monts – with a little edge to the Petits Monts at the moment – a delightful glass of Vosne … well done Maxime Cheurlin.
The 2008 La Combe D’Orveaux is a gorgeous and very mineralic Chambolle 1er cru. The bouquet is bursting with acidity driven red and dark berry fruit – notes of elderberries, raspberries – boosted by a energetic crisp minerality. On the palate beautiful acidity driven fruit – medium weight – focused by a dramatic and very powerful minerality. Quite close to grand cru level … love the energy and transparency.
The En Remilly is quite a step up in quality from the lesser 1er crus with it’s crystaline purity and powerful minerality. The bouquet is bursting with citrus infused minerality and delicate white fruit- notes of pear and hints of some more exotic orchard fruits. On the palate intense fruit delivered by a vibrant acidity and a powerful minerality … pure and crystal clear with great length and almost grand cru like mineralic power. A truly impressive and gorgeous mineral driven wine with a delightful purity. Really like this wine.
The Clos Saint Denis 2011 from Benjamin Leroux is a quite lightfooted and understated grand cru – but nevertheless a lovely effort. The nose offer a lovely complexity with notes of red and dark cherries, red currant and raspberries infused with a delicate earthy minerality. On the palate layers of airy red fruit with a lovely nerve and energy. It’s not a big and dense wine – but I really like the vibrant core of pure and delicate fruit … a truly fine effort.
Photo by Frederik Kreutzer