The Saint-Aubin Clos de la Chateniere 2012 is in my view a step up in quality and mineralic complexity from Chez Edouard. In the nose delicate and pure fruit .. notes of pear, citrus with hints of exotic orchard fruits and white flowers … and spiced with a powerful yet quite filigree minerality. On the palate intense and powerful with a lovely nerve and mineralic tension. It’s focused with a long mineralic finish. Love the purity, energy and nerve … very impressive.
The 2011 Meursault Les Tesson Clos de Mon Plaisir is showing very well. In the nose pure white and yellow fruit … quite rich for the vintage with a lovely citrus and hazelnut infused minerality. On the palate fresh and refined fruit – very balanced and harmonious with a focused and very persistent finish for this level. The acidity is quite powerful but filigree and the underlying minerality in the finish is very energetic. Offers a beautiful balance between refinement and power that is rarely seen in a village wine … gorgeous glass of Meursault.
The 2007 Roulots are starting to show more complexity with some maturing notes. The Meursault Les Tessons Clos de Mon Plaisir 2007 offer a approachble bouquet with quite expressive notes of white peach, hazelnuts, allmonds and citrus infused minerality. On the palate lovely midpalate fruit focused by the impressive 07 acidity … superbly balanced with a fine energy and nerve. Love the balance in this 07 as the fruit is a finely tuned match for the powerful acidity.
The 2008 Saint-Aubin En Remilly from Hubert Lamy is a gorgeous mineralic effort. The nose is bursting with citrus infused stony minerality – white orchard fruits spiced with acacia and a very slight hint of hazelnuts. On the palate very energetic with pure and focused fruit. The finish is long and persistant driven by the powerful minerality of this fine terroir. A typical 2008 … love the energy and nerve .. adore the purity and minerality … a fine effort indeed.
The Gevrey Chambertin 1er cru 2011 from Mugneret-Gibourg is made from the young vines on Ruchottes Chambertin – please note in 2012 all the production will be bottled as Ruchottes. The 2011 version is very harmonious and quite forward with layers of fruit and a lovely complex expession of terroir. The nose is bursting with delicate red and dark berry fruit – notes of raspberries, red and dark cherries … spiced with a complex earthy minerality. On the palate lovely airy fruit with good midpalete weight supported by finely grained tannins. It’s very balanced and transparent – showing the lovely complexity of the Ruchottes terroir. A very harmonious effort … really like this producer and I adore the Ruchottes terroir.
The Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er cru 2010 from Henri Roch is showing well like the other fine 2010s from this fine Domaine. In the bouquet forward, crisp and bold – notes of raspberries, cherries, all spice and cinnamon – spiced with a nice earthy minerality. On the palate a fresh and quite transparent fruit. It offers nice midpalate weight and a lovely organic fruit – nicely focused by the fine acidity. Not in the same league as the gorgeous Argillieres .. but nevertheless a beautiful glass of pinot.
The Chambolle Les Cras 2011 from Roumier is a quite delicate pinot in the making. The nose is showing lovely floral notes, red and blue berry fruit … notes of blueberries, liquorice … with hints of raspberries and oak. On the palate quite subtle and mouth filling with medium weight and a long focused finish. The fruit is quite vibrant with a lovely nerve and acidity. The tannins are finely grained and offer a nice support … slightly forward at the moment. A quite lovely Les Cras in the making.
Ponsot seem to have nailed the 2011 vintage. The Morey-Saint-Denis Les Alouettes – made from the 1er cru Monts Luisants – is really showing well. The nose is forward offering quite refined notes of red berry fruit, plum, violets and a earthy minerality – quite sweet and ripe. On the palate rich and seductive fruit … very well balanced and pure. Love the midpalate refinement and the delicate balance … a beautiful effort.
Photo by Frederik Kreutzer
The Clos des Epeneaux from Comte Armand is a classic Pommard – made from a 5 ha clos locaded in the climates Petit Epenots (80%) and Grands Epenots (20%). The nose offer layers of pure red and dark berry fruit – notes of cherries, red currant and blue berries – infused with a deep earthy minerality. On the palate tight with layers of fruit, finely grained tannins – very good power and weight. Perhaps not quite at the same level as the 2010 … but this is more forward and show more energy and nerve currently. Build for cellaring – a classic Pommard.
Photo by Frederik Kreutzer
The Chassagne-Montrachet Les Macherelles 2010 from Jean-Claude Bachelet is a delightful effort. In the bouquet lively and ripe yellow fruit – presented by a citrus infused Chassagne minerality and a decent touch of oak. On the palate quite weighty fruit – pure and crisp – focused by a powerful acidity and a lovely minerality from this relatively unknown terroir located under Les Vergers. This is a classic, pure and transparent Chassagne – love the energy and 2010 power … gorgeous.
The Romanee Saint-Vivant 2007 from Domaine Poisot is not really showing the full potential at the moment. In the nose quite perfumed and dense red berry fruit with notes of cherries, raspberries, elderberries … spiced with a quite discrete minerality and some hints of toasted oak. On the palate quite rich and dense for the vintage … a bit unfocused currently. The finish is long and quite powerful but also a bit unresolved and edgy. It’s a big wine for the vintage, but it really need time to resolve … and lacking a bit of transparancy compared directly with the 2008. Nevertheless a fine wine in the making,
The 2007 Corton Bressandes from Domaine Poisot is a quite impressive and charming effort for the vintage. The nose is bursting with red and dark cherries, very forward, delicate and precise. On the palate very good grip and focus for the vintage … lovely delicate fruit .. good midpalate weight. A classic, very forward and expressive Corton Bressandes. Really like the nerve and energy in the fruit. The transparancy and balance is quite impressive … need some years more to unfold completely … well done!
The 2010s from Dujac are brilliant and most likely the best vintage I have tasted from this fine estate. The 2010 Chambolle-Musigny village is a delightful wine … a bit restrained at first … but soon the bouquet is bursting with airy sweet red and dark fruits – notes of cassis, raspberries, blueberries and pomegranate. The nose is generously spiced with hints of rose petals and a nice earthy minerality … a almost silky scent of Chambolle. On the palate quite abundantfruit, a crisp and vibrant acidity …. lovely transparancy and display of minerality. Very god weight and intensity for this level .. elegant and refined with layers of velvet red fruit. A very impressive Chambolle village.
The 2010 Chambolle-Musigny village from Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé is surprisingly forward and open. The nose is crammed with sweet airy red berry fruit – notes of strawberries, raspberries, pomegranate spiced with hints of rose petals. On the palate lovely organic fruit – i.e. no feeling of SO2 or oak restraining the fruit significantly. It’s rich, expressive and quite silky with a lovely balancing acidity, finely grained tannins and a nice minerality for this level. A gorgeous village … the 2010s from de Vogüé are great
The Clos de la Marechale 2010 from J.-F. Mugnier is a truly gorgeous wine…but now slightly closed. The nose is a delightful play between red and dark fruits – blueberries, red cherries and raspberries – and a slight hint of earthy minerality. On the palate quite weighty but still refined, with a lovely transparancy and balance. It’s intense and offer layers of airy and delicate fruit .. very nice nerve and energy. A great Marechale in the making … what a lovely wine.
The 2006 de Vogue wines are lovely and quite accessible. The Chambolle 1er cru is no exception with it’s fruit and mineral driven bouquet. The nose is brimming with red and dark berry fruit … a note darker than the village with a quite substantial mineral element … and a pitch of gun powder. On the palate quite big and powerful with layers of lovely fruit … forward and quite focused for the vintage. The finish is long and intense with plenty of volume and grip. A fine effort indeed … perhaps lacking a bit of transparancy compared to vintages like 2010 – nevertheless impressive for the vintage.
The Les Reignots from Dominique Laurent is surprisingly forward and quite charming. The nose is quite floral with a crisp raspberry fruit, lovely Vosne spices and a moderate touch of slightly toasted oak. On the palate crisp and pure red berry fruit, good energy and balance. Medium weight with a nice airy expression. Not a big Reignots but a quite delightful wine with a lovely expression of terroir and vibrant energy …. quite a pleasure although not a match for the big boys on this gorgeously mineralic terroir.
The Ambroise Corton Charlie 2001 is a powerful effort. In the nose yellow fruits, green apple – spiced with almonds, fennel and a stony minerality. On the palate tight, pure and intense with a very strong acidic backbone and a crunchy minerality. It’s slightly monolithic at the moment and need time to resolve and fully integrate the oak. A serious wine … would give it 5 years more in the cellar – a fine rather than great Charlie.
Old wines should be treated with respect and given the appropriate time to resolve in the glas. This is true for most wines, but especially old white Burgundies can be misunderstood and wasted if they are not given sufficient time in the glas. This bottle of 1986 Meursault Charmes from Bouchard Pere et Fils seemed tired and slightly oxidative when it was poured … and it took at least 10 – 15 minutes in the glass before it started to show it’s qualities. After quite some time in the glass it showed the most lovely mature complexity combined with a delightful vibrant freshness. In the nose yellow fruit, acacia, almonds and hazelnuts with notes of orange zest and coffee. On the palate pure and quite crisp, with a lovely balance and weight. It’s not a big wine, but a perfectly mature old white Burgundy … with all the qualities an old white Burgundy should possess … but rarely have.
The 2002 Meursault Goutte D’Or from Comte Lafon is really showing well. In the bouquet delicate yellow fruit with a fine citrus infused filigree stony minerality. On the palate fresh and vibrant fruit with fine weight and length – very well balanced with a lovely acidity. Love the freshness and the airy nerve in this wine … pure, crisp and so refined for the level. A lovely matured Meursault … will keep …. but beautiful now – so why wait.