The Clos de Vougeot 2010 from Domaine Prieure-Roch is a gorgeous effort and a impressive Clos de Vougeot. The bouquet offer expressive red and dark berry fruit spiced with cinnamon, violets and all spice. On the palate quite weighty midpalate fruit … seems quite lightfooted .. but still power through a set of 2011 top end Bonnes Mares. Love the nerve and the energy in the long and intensely vibrant finish – 2010 is indeed a legendary vintage.
The Criots-Batard-Montrachet 1989 from Hubert Lamy is a delightfully fresh effort. The nose is still crisp and vibrant with cool yellow fruit, hazelnuts and a slightly salty minerality. On the palate medium bodied with focused and refined fruit supported by a lovely mineralic backbone. It’s pure vibrant with a almost riesling like acidity in the finish. Very fresh and cool for a 1989 .. a lovely matured white Burgundy.
The Bonnes Mares 2011 from Roumier is a big and intense effort. In the nose red and dark fruits, blueberries, red currant, boysenberries spiced with hints of plum and a deep earthy minerality. On the palate big and muscular for the vintage with a relatively dark and dense layered fruit. A big and quite masculine Bonnes Mares – really like the perfumed floral nuances and the intensity – but this will require many years in the cellar before it unfolds completely. If you have the time …
The Bonnes Mares 2011 from Vogüé is showing beautifully – matched in a set with the Roumier and Bertheau efforts from the same vineyard and vintage. The nose offer lovely transparent cool red and dark fruit. On the palate very pure and transparent fruit … airy and juicy with a effortless power. Very fine concentration here .. but still very refined for the vineyard. A genuinely delightful Bonnes Mares from Vogüé.
The 2008 Echezeaux from Liger-Belair is really singing. The nose is bursting with intense acidity infused red berry fruit – spiced by a delicate fragrance of of peony rose, violets, oak and all spice. On the palate fresh and very energetic red fruit – envigorating acidity. It’s long and vibrant with an almost silky feel to the fruit – finely focused by the filigree minerality and magnificent acidity of the 2008 vintage. A truly gorgeous Echezeaux … the 2009 might well be bigger .. but somehow I prefer this energetic delight.
The Richebourg 2006 from Meo-Camuzet is a big and expressive wine. The nose offer rich red and dark berry fruit spiced with sous-bois, tar, mint, game and violets. On the palate rich and quite opulent, with a focusing core of minerality and tannins. It’s long, rich and openly knit … with a delightful airy fruit infused with a intense minerality. Is showing surprising well … would have expected a more backward wine at this stage. Nevertheless need 10 years more to unfold full complexity.
The Richebourg 1995 from Anne Gros is quite a powerhouse .. and age 20 only just starting to show matured notes. The nose is crammed with darkberry fruit .. cassis, dark cherries, sous-bois and oriental spices. On the palate intense and weighty fruit – earthy and tightly knit with quite a lot of grip. The fruit is pure and intense … but perhaps lacking a tad of transparancy to match the big boys. Very balanced .. but need time to unfold. A very impressive Richebourg … would perhaps have prefered it ever so slightly less extracted … nevertheless a treat.
The Amoureuses 1990 from Vogüé has entered a matured stage .. but still have some rustic edges left. The bouquet is showing red and dark fruits, with hints of tar, prune, coffee and sous-bois. On the palate quite rich and weighty for a Amoureuses with a gorgeous minerality. Still some edgy tannins, oak and tarryness .. indicating further cellaring would be optimal.
A lovely mineral driven and slightly rustic Amoureuses from Vogue.
The Meursault Charmes 2010 from Antoine Jobard is a truly delightful effort. The nose is classic with quite expressive notes of melon, white peach, acacia, spiced with a discrete citrus infused minerality. On the palate rich and generous – with amble fruit focused by a fine acidity and a fine minerality for this terroir. Very harmonious and forward – a beautiful Meursault Charmes – from one of my favorite producers of white Burgundy.
The Vosne Romanee Les Gaudichots 2012 from Regis Forey is a serious wine for the vintage. Made from very old wines – planted in 1930 – on the vineyard located just next to and above the mighty La Tache. The bouquet display layers of deep red fruit and a powerful minerality with intense Vosne spices – notes of peony rose and violets. On the palate layers of rich relatively dark pinot fruit – pure and with fine depth and quite ample tannins for a 2012. The mineralic backbone of this wine is impressive – and the finish is very focused and persistent. Slightly closed due to recent bottling.
The Grands Echezeaux 2012 from Sirugue represent another step up in quality for Domaine Sirugue. The bouquet is offering layers of juicy red fruit … intense with lovely Vosne minerality and spices. On the palate layers of rich and velvet fruit – a sumptuous and quite openly knit wine – very typical for the terroir. It has charm, poise and the concentration is there .. a quite gorgeous Grands Echezeaux in the making. Keep an eye on Domaine Robert Sirugue … they are improving each year … the 2012 are delightful.
The Ruchottes-Chambertin 2013 from Pacalet is very impressive and gorgeous wine in the making – the grand cru terroirs really show well in this intense and highly structured vintage,. The bouquet is showing layers of intense red and dark fruit … complex and vibrant with a lovely minerality. On the palate layers of ripe and juicy red berry fruit … lovely nerve and glow in the fruit … more forward than the Echezeaux and even more refined. Really have a soft spot for this terroir. A beauty with its core of vibrant fruit.
The Chambolle La Combe d’Orveaux 2012 is a magnificent effort from Bruno Clavelier … one of the very best wines I have tasted from this fine domaine. The bouquet is bursting with layers of juicy red berry fruit … very forward, airy and expressive … all intensified by the powerful minerality from the vineyard located just south of and above Petits Musigny. On the palate layers of open, rich and velvet fruit – very expressive and charming … with the very powerful minerality as a focusing element. Its long, powerful and intense – a stony fist in velvet fruit. In my view very close to grand cru level … very accessible for a young Clavelier.
The Echezeaux 2012 from Pacalet is a gorgeous effort. The nose is bursting with fruit … red juicy fruit with a quite intense mineralty and spiced with violets, all spice and cinnamon. On the palate even more weighty than expected with a very fine midpalate concentration. The fruit is vibrant with a lovely nerve and energy. The minerality from the terroir is quite powerful .. this will be a very exiting wine to follow .. with its well constituted fruit and balance. Very impressive .. need more time to unfold … just like the two Vosne wines from Pacalet.
The Amoureuses 2011 from Vogue is a gorgeously juicy and transparent wine for the vintage. In the bouquet sweet and crisp jellied fruit – notes of pomegranate and red forest berries – supported by a intense filligree minerality. On the palate layers of vibrant red fruit – very transparent and intense with a long mineralic finish. Love the purity, transparency, nerve and tension in the fruit – a very charming wine. Vogüé really nailed the 2011s.
The Malconsorts 2011 from Cathiard is a magnificent wine for the vintage. The nose is crammed with expressive red and darkberry fruit – notes of dark cherries, plum and red currant – spiced with violets and a touch of oak. On the palate rich openly knit fruit … airy with a lovely midpalate weight. It’s beautifully balanced and focused by the fine minerality and quite energetic acidity. Adorable and gorgeous … what a lovely wine.
There are many fine vineyards in Chassagne-Montrachet – but Les Caillerets is in my view in a league of its own. The 2012 Caillerets from Jean-Nöel Gagnard confirms this status. The nose is delicately refined with airy white orchard fruit and a filigree citrus infused minerality. On the palate very refined pure fruit – airy and delicate – with an almost creamy texture. The acidity is fresh and crisp and offer a perfect balance to the rich cool fruit and the filigree minerality. Effortless refinement – adore this terroir and this wine.
The Richebourg 2012 from Gros Frere et Soeur is very fine effort but lacking a bit of weight and intensity compared to the big boys and girls on the Richebourg vineyard. The nose is currently slightly reduced with ample oak and underlaying layers of red and dark berry fruit. On the palate finely focused fruit … nice concentration and transparency with a lovely powerful minerality from the mighty Richebourg terroir. Im missing a bit of intensity here – but I’m sure time will ad some weight to match the mineralic backbone.
The 2012 Echezeaux from Mugneret-Gibourg is a beauty. In the nose forward, pure and relatively dark pinot fruit with delicate berry aromas – notes of cinnamon and elderberries – very nicely focused. On the palate rich and pure with a very fine midpalate weigth. Its long an transparent with a lovely effortless intensity. A both refined and intense Echezeaux … beautiful effort.
The 2012 Aux Reignots from Cathiard is in my view one of his very best efforts from this fine 1er cru so far. The nose is crammed with red and darkberry fruit – notes of blackberries, dark cherries and red forrest berries – spiced with violets and a touch of oak. On the palate rich and silky fruit … but with a more stony and energetic minerality than the Malconsort. Its quite weigthy, long and powerful – love the mineralic intensity and the tension between the almost silky fruit and the stony minerality underneath. Have a soft spot for Reignots … and this is a very fine example.