Close to Clos des Lambrays … Clos des Rosiers – Monopole

There is a lot of focus on Clos des Lambrays these days – after the LVMH deal. The price for Domaine des Lambrays seem to have been around 100 million EUR … and if one can trust the medias then Taupenot-Merme is quite reluctant to sell the 0.04 ha plot they have in Clos des Lambrays – to complete the LVMH monopole on Clos des Lambrays.

As my previous article showed there are also additional plots that perhaps could be considered a part of Clos des Lambrays – see the article. I think its safe to say … we will here more about the Taupenot-Merme plot and the other plots.

There are however also other special plots located on the boarder of Clos des Lambrays … and one of them is the unknown Clos des Rosiers – owned by Domaine Chantal Remy – formerly known as Domaine Louis Remy.

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Photo: View over Clos des Rosiers and Clos des Lambrays seen from Clos des Rosieres.

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Domaine Comte de Vogüé, Chambolle-Musigny 1er cru 2008

The 2008 Chambolle Musigny 1er cru is really showing off. In the nose sweet and ripe red berry fruit – supported by a filigree and vibrant Chambolle minerality. On the palate lovely sweet and airy red pinot fruit … so pure and transparent. The fruit is supported by an explosion of minerality on the midpalate and a long acidity/mineral driven finish. Love the surprisingly weighty and ripe fruit and the energetic acidity driven style … this is really rocking.

20120309-125513.jpg(Drink from 2021) – Fine – (92p) – Tasted 01/04/2014

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Clos des Lambrays – Monopole or not? – update

The Domaine des Lambrays have recently been sold to LVMH – and the deal included some very fine vineyards – with the jewel in the crown being the 8.84 ha Clos des Lambrays.

This deal is very important for the development in Burgundy as it announces a new big player on the Burgundy scene – LVMH – a company that already owns several prominent estates in Bordeaux and Champagne. It will be interesting to follow the development – as I’m sure we can expect changes and improvements under the new ownership.

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Photo: Copyright Winehog.org 2014

I’m therefore planning to make a small series of articles about Domaine des Lambrays – just to explore the vineyards and the history of the Domaine.

The first article is about Clos des Lambrays – where I have made a few maps that illustrates one of the intriguing facts about the LVMH deal – the missing plot of Clos des Lambrays.

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Domaine Roulot, Meursault Perrieres 2012

Les Perrieres is the missing grand cru of Meursault with its sheer weight and underlying mineralic power. Roulot’s Perrieres is made from a perfectly located plot on the northern part of Perrieres Dessous … and it’s a quite big step up in quality and especially weight from the other lovely Meursault’s in the Roulot line-up. In the nose gorgeously pure white and yellow orchard fruits – notes of pear and more exotic fruit – brought forward and focused by a powerful yet refined minerality. On the palate crystal clear weighty and powerful – with ample and very pure fruit – focused and energized by a very intense minerality. The finish is long and very persistent … these are the qualities of a grand cru. A both impressive and gorgeous Meursault Perrieres … salute!

20120311-111932.jpg(Drink From 2026) – Very Fine+ -  (94 – 95p) – Tasted 17/03/2014 - cask sample.

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Domaine Hubert Lamy, Saint-Aubin Les Frionnes 2012

The Saint-Aubin Les Frionnes is one of the “lesser” 1er crus but still a both gorgeous and vibrant wine. The nose is slightly restained and more chalky and offer discrete white orchard fruits with more density and minerality than the village. On the palate lovely balance and weight … beautifully balanced and refined. A lovely energetic effort.

20120311-111932.jpg(Drink From 2019) – Very Good – (89p) – Tasted 17/03/2014 at the domaine.

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Domaine Hubert Lamy, Puligny-Montrachet Vieilles Vignes 2012

The Puligny-Montrachet is made on the village terroir “Les Tremblots” from very old vines – planted in 1946 and 1970. The terroir is located below Les Ensignieres on the Chassagne side of Puligny. In the nose pear and acacia blossom .. quite rich, ripe and expressive with a gorgeous display of Puligny terroir. On the palate very fine nerve and weight for a village Puligny … beautifully balanced. Really impressed by this wine … a top end Puligny village in my view.

20120311-111932.jpg(Drink From 2020) – Fine – (91p) – Tasted 17/03/2014 at the domaine.

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Bruno Clavelier, Chambolle Musigny La Combe D’Orveaux 2008

The 2008 La Combe D’Orveaux is a gorgeous and very mineralic Chambolle 1er cru. The bouquet is bursting with acidity driven red and dark berry fruit – notes of elderberries, raspberries – boosted by a energetic crisp minerality. On the palate beautiful acidity driven fruit – medium weight – focused by a dramatic and very powerful minerality. Quite close to grand cru level … love the energy and transparency.

20120309-125513.jpg(Drink from 2021) – Fine+ – (93p) – Tasted 04/04/2014.

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Domaine Hubert Lamy, Saint-Aubin Derriere Chez Edouard 2012

The Derriere Chez Edouard 2012 is slightly more weighty and forward than Les Frionnes. The nose offering pure fruit .. notes of pear, white flowers and some delicate hints of peach … spiced with some citrus notes and a delicate minerality. On the palate nice weight and midpalate fruit – very delicate and harmonious with a nice focusing minerality and zappy acidity. A delightful wine.

20120311-111932.jpg(Drink From 2019) – Very Good+ – (90p) – Tasted 17/03/2014 at the domaine.

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Domaine Robert Sirugue, Vosne Romanee VV 2011

The Vosne Romanee Vieilles Vignes 2011 from Sirugue is a quite lovely glass of Vosne. In the bouquet red and dark berry fruit discretely spiced with violets and a hint of elderberries. On the palate quite intense and fresh fruit – good midpalate weight og length. It’s pure and well balanced, typical for both the vintage and the terroir. The oak is finely integrated and the tannins are firm but ripe and harmonius. A quite attractive and enjoyable wine – and quite a bargain.

20120309-125513.jpg(Drink from 2018) – Good – (86p) – Tasted 04/04/2014.

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Emmanuel Rouget, Vosne Romanee 2011

The Vosne Romanee 2011 from Emmanuel Rouget is a very nice village effort – but needs time to resolve. In the nose crisp red and dark berry fruit with a quite strong impression of new oak. On the palate quite openly knit with a nice fresh fruit – nicely balanced and quite harmonious. The weight and intensity increases after some time in the glass. Not the most focused Vosne village – a very good wine – but somehow slightly disappointing.

20120309-125513.jpg(Drink from 2023) – Very Good – (88p) – Tasted 04/04/2014

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Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair, Vosne Clos du Chateau 2008

The 2008 Clos du Chateau from Liger-Belair is open and really rocking with loads of youthful energy. In the bouquet transparent and crisp red fruit with hints of graphe, peony rose, cinnamon and a touch of oak. On the palate acidity driven red fruit … crisp and lightfooted … focused by a acidity infused Vosne minerality. Loads of energy here – with the oak well integrated. Really love the transparency and the crystal clear fruit …. refined but still quite a beast with its dramatic vibrant acidity. Not a wine for the average wine solicitor fan.

20120309-125513.jpg(Drink from 2019) – Very Good- (90p) – Tasted 09/04/2014

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Hubert Lamy, Saint Aubin Clos de la Chateniere 2012

The Saint-Aubin Clos de la Chateniere 2012 is in my view a step up in quality and mineralic complexity from Chez Edouard. In the nose delicate and pure fruit .. notes of pear, citrus with hints of exotic orchard fruits and white flowers … and spiced with a powerful yet quite filigree minerality. On the palate intense and powerful with a lovely nerve and mineralic tension. It’s focused with a long mineralic finish. Love the purity, energy and nerve … very impressive.

20120311-111932.jpg(Drink From 2021) – Fine – (92p) – Tasted 17/03/2014 at the domaine.

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Comte de Vogue, Bourgogne Blanc 1999

The Bourgogne Blanc 1999 from Vogue is approaching full maturity. The nose is complex with notes of matured yellow fruit – hints of acacia, citrus, hazelnuts and apple – lifted by a chalky and stony minerality. On the palate still quite crisp with a medium weight midpalate fruit … matured but still vibrant and fresh. The finish is well defined and focused with a lovely display of minerality. A harmonious and mature white Cote de Nuits  …. love the minerality … a both lovely and interesting wine.

20120311-111932.jpg(Drink from Now) – Very Good – (90p) – Tasted 09/04/2014

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Sylvain Cathiard, Vosne Romanee 2010

The Vosne Romanee 2010 village from Sylvain Cathiard is a truly delightful wine … and still quite accessible. The bouquet is crammed with layers of refined fruit – notes of red berries, violets, peony rose and a discrete minerality. The palate is offering a rich, pure and silky display of cool pinot fruit. It’s very refined and harmonious with it’s finely grained tannins and sophisticated fruit – but not quite as focused as some of the single vineyard village wines. A beautiful and refined village – just love the delicate Vosne expression in this wine. Very impressive indeed.

20120309-125513.jpg(Drink from 2023) – Very Good+ 90p – Tasted 04/04/2014

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Domaine Roulot, Meursault Les Tesson 2011

The 2011 Meursault Les Tesson Clos de Mon Plaisir is showing very well. In the nose pure white and yellow fruit … quite rich for the vintage with a lovely citrus and hazelnut infused minerality. On the palate fresh and refined fruit – very balanced and harmonious with a focused and very persistent finish for this level. The acidity is quite powerful but filigree and the underlying minerality in the finish is very energetic. Offers a beautiful balance between refinement and power that is rarely seen in a village wine … gorgeous glass of Meursault.

20120311-111932.jpg(Drink From 2021) – Fine – (92p) – Tasted 17/03/2014

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Domaine Hubert Lamy, Saint-Aubin En Remilly 2012

The En Remilly is quite a step up in quality from the lesser 1er crus with it’s crystaline purity and powerful minerality. The bouquet is bursting with citrus infused minerality and delicate white fruit- notes of pear and hints of some more exotic orchard fruits. On the palate intense fruit delivered by a vibrant acidity and a powerful minerality … pure and crystal clear with great length and almost grand cru like mineralic power. A truly impressive and gorgeous mineral driven wine with a delightful purity. Really like this wine.

20120311-111932.jpg(Drink From 2021) – Fine+ – (93p) – Tasted 17/03/2014 at the domaine.

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Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé – History and Vineyards

I have followed Burgundy wines quite closely the last 20 to 25 years – tasting a lot of lovely wines from many different domaines.

One domaine does however hold a special place in my passion for Burgundy wines – the name is Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé – a domaine with history, great vineyards, passion and first and foremost beautiful aristocratic wines.

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Twelve vintages of Comte de Vogüé, Chambolle-Musigny 1er cru

I have followed Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé closely for quite many years now and always enjoyed the Chambolle-Musigny 1er cru for its minerality and expression of Chambolle terroir.

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In a sense the Chambolle-Musigny 1er cru has become a benchmark wine for me in Chambolle, as I each year taste it from cask and from bottle just after the release in Denmark.

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J.-F. Mugnier, Nuits-Saint-Georges Clos de la Marechale 2008

The 2008 Nuits Marechale is darker and more earthy than the Chambolle village 2008 … but still quite forward and fresh. In the nose cherries, blue berries .. spiced with a deep earthy minerality and a floral energetic note. On the palate layers of quite dark openly knit fruit … quite vibrant due to the acidity driven characteristics of the 2008 vintage. A lovely wine … with more weight and less refinement than the village Chambolle.

20120309-125513.jpg(Drink from 2018) – Very Good – (89p) – Tasted 16/03/2014

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