Terroir Insight: Domaine de Montille Malconsorts Cuvee Christiane

One rarely see a producer in Burgundy making two different wines from the same vineyard, unless it’s a declassification of young and younger wines.

Etienne de Montille has however decided to make two cuvees from Vosne-Romanee Aux-Malconsorts – one regular cuvee made from two plots inside Malconsorts and a special cuvee made from a 0.4765 ha plot located on the southeastern corner of La Tâche Joly de Bévy – he has named this cuvee after his mother Chistiane .. so it must be something special .. and it is in my view.

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So lets go walkabout in the La Tâche outskirts.

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Domaine Prieure-Roch, Clos de Vougeot 2010

The Clos de Vougeot 2010 from Domaine Prieure-Roch is a gorgeous effort and a impressive Clos de Vougeot. The bouquet offer expressive red and dark berry fruit spiced with cinnamon, violets and all spice. On the palate quite weighty midpalate fruit … seems quite lightfooted .. but still power through a set of 2011 top end Bonnes Mares. Love the nerve and the energy in the long and intensely vibrant finish – 2010 is indeed a legendary vintage.

20120309-125513.jpg(Drink from 2024) – Very Fine – (94p) – Tasted 24/10/2014

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Comte Lafon, Meursault Clos de la Barre 2004

Yes! … this bottle of Lafon Meursault Clos de Barre 2004 is really singing. In the nose fresh matured fruit, citrus driven minerality … with lovely complex notes of hazelnuts on the top. On the palate fresh and vibrant fruit … quite weighty with fine energy and focus. No sign of the 04 dense flavours .. just pure, crisp and delightful matured fruit – lovely juice.

20120311-111932.jpg(Drink from Now) – Very Good+ – (90p) – Tasted 24/09/2014

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Domaine Hubert Lamy, Criots-Batard-Montrachet 1989

The Criots-Batard-Montrachet 1989 from Hubert Lamy is a delightfully fresh effort. The nose is still crisp and vibrant with cool yellow fruit, hazelnuts and a slightly salty minerality. On the palate medium bodied with focused and refined fruit supported by a lovely mineralic backbone. It’s pure vibrant with a almost riesling like acidity in the finish. Very fresh and cool for a 1989 .. a lovely matured white Burgundy.

20120311-111932.jpg(Drink From Now) – Very Fine – (93p) – Tasted 24/09/2014]

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Georges Roumier, Bonnes Mares 2011

The Bonnes Mares 2011 from Roumier is a big and intense effort. In the nose red and dark fruits, blueberries, red currant, boysenberries spiced with hints of plum and a deep earthy minerality. On the palate big and muscular for the vintage with a relatively dark and dense layered fruit. A big and quite masculine Bonnes Mares – really like the perfumed floral nuances and the intensity – but this will require many years in the cellar before it unfolds completely. If you have the time …

20120309-125513.jpg(Drink from 2030) – Very Fine – (93p) – Tasted 24/09/2014

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Domaine Bertheau, Bonnes Mares 2011

The Bonnes Mares 2011 from Bertheau is very charming and forward – much more so than the Vogue and Roumier versions of the same wine. The nose is brimming with seductive red fruit – intense and spiced with a nice earthy minerality. On the palate quite rich and velvet fruit, less weight than both the Vogue and the Roumier .. airy and quite lightfooted .. but still intense and long. Love the balance and the extrovert drinkability – a gorgeous effort from Bertheau.

20120309-125513.jpg(Drink from 2024) – Fine+ – (93p) – Tasted 24/09/2014

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Domaine Comte de Vogüé, Bonnes Mares 2011

The Bonnes Mares 2011 from Vogüé is showing beautifully – matched in a set with the Roumier and Bertheau efforts from the same vineyard and vintage. The nose offer lovely transparent cool red and dark fruit. On the palate very pure and transparent fruit … airy and juicy with a effortless power. Very fine concentration here .. but still very refined for the vineyard. A genuinely delightful Bonnes Mares from Vogüé.

20120309-125513.jpg(Drink from 2026) – Very Fine – (93 – 94p) – Tasted 24/09/2014

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Domaine de la Romanee-Conti, La Tâche 2011

The La Tâche 2011 from Domaine de la Romanee-Conti is a magnificent wine .. and quite a step up from the otherwise outstanding Richebourg from DRC. The bouquet is slightly closed compared to the more flamboyant Richebourg 2011 – but still bursting with layered red and dark fruits, Vosne spices and a tremendous minerality. The palate offer layers of intense and complex fruit .. clearly more depth and weight in the midpalate fruit than the Richebourg. It’s long, superbly balanced, delightful … quite mind-blowing quality in a vintage like 2011.

20120309-125513.jpg(Drink From 2035) – Outstanding+ – (97p) – Tasted 24/09/2014

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Dominique Laurent, Musigny 1995

The Musigny 1995 from Dominique Laurent is not a poor wine .. but by most standards a dissappointting Musigny. The bouquet offer red fruit, some matured notes of sous-bois, and lastly some oak elements with a rather strange touch of marcipan. On the palate quite fine concentration and minerality … a bit hollow in the middle within the powerful framework of oak and tannins. A quite nice wine now … but really think the oak and the tannins will get the upper hand in the long run.

20120309-125513.jpg(Drink Now) – Very Good – (89p) – Tasted 20/09/2014

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Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair, Echezeaux 2008

The 2008 Echezeaux from Liger-Belair is really singing. The nose is bursting with intense acidity infused red berry fruit – spiced by a delicate fragrance of of peony rose, violets, oak and all spice. On the palate fresh and very energetic red fruit – envigorating acidity. It’s long and vibrant with an almost silky feel to the fruit – finely focused by the filigree minerality and magnificent acidity of the 2008 vintage. A truly gorgeous Echezeaux … the 2009 might well be bigger .. but somehow I prefer this energetic delight.

20120309-125513.jpg(Drink from 2023) – Very Fine (93 – 94p) – Tasted 20/09/2014

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Terroir Insight: Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé Musigny

Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé is by far the largest owner of Musigny – they own more than 7 ha equivalent to almost 70% of this magnificent grand cru located just north of Chateau Clos de Vougeot.

Musigny is to a large extend Comte de Vogüé and the Comte de Vogüé name is very much linked to this vineyard, although it’s a serious offence to miss out on the other wines from this fine Domaine.

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The Comte de Vogüé holdings are very extensive and dates several centuries back … so lets take a closer look at the Musigny holdings of Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé.

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Domaine Meo-Camuzet, Richebourg 2006

The Richebourg 2006 from Meo-Camuzet is a big and expressive wine. The nose offer rich red and dark berry fruit spiced with sous-bois, tar, mint, game and violets. On the palate rich and quite opulent, with a focusing core of minerality and tannins. It’s long, rich and openly knit … with a delightful airy fruit infused with a intense minerality. Is showing surprising well … would have expected a more backward wine at this stage. Nevertheless need 10 years more to unfold full complexity.

20120309-125513.jpg(Drink From 2023) – Very Fine – (94p) – Tasted 24/09/2014

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Domaine Anne Gros, Richebourg 1995

The Richebourg 1995 from Anne Gros is quite a powerhouse .. and age 20 only just starting to show matured notes. The nose is crammed with darkberry fruit .. cassis, dark cherries, sous-bois and oriental spices. On the palate intense and weighty fruit – earthy and tightly knit with quite a lot of grip. The fruit is pure and intense … but perhaps lacking a tad of transparancy to match the big boys. Very balanced .. but need time to unfold. A very impressive Richebourg … would perhaps have prefered it ever so slightly less extracted … nevertheless a treat.

20120309-125513.jpg(Drink From 2020) – Very Fine – (94p) – Tasted 20/09/2014

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Domaine de la Romanee-Conti, Richebourg 2011

The Richebourg 2011 from Domaine de la Romanee-Conti is fulfilling the promise it showed from cask – its an expressive firework of Vosne spices and minerality. The bouquet is still very extrovert with refined cool red and black fruits – bursting with Vosne spices, minerality and currently a sligthly flamboyant hint of toasted oak. The palate offer powerful and energetic juicy fruit – focused by a framework of quite vibrant acidity and a almost mind-blowing display of minerality. The finish is long and very persistent – expressive is in this case an understatement. A magnificent effort for the vintage .. love the energy and extrovert exuberantness.

20120309-125513.jpg(Drink From 2030) – Outstanding – (96p) – Tasted 24/09/2014

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Domaine Comte de Vogüé, Musigny Vieilles Vignes 2002

The Musigny Vieilles Vignes 2002 from Vogüé is one of my favorite wines from this legendary estate. The bouquet offer vibrant red and darkberry fruit focused by crisp acidity and a gorgeous playful minerality … slightly closed but nevertheless showing well. On the palate excellent concentation for the vintage, very vibrant with a very energetic fruit and minerality .. quite lightfooted but with a quite intense and weighty backbone of mineral infused fruit. Not a dense and mighty wine … just so effortless, invigorating and delightful … love this wine.

20120309-125513.jpg(Drink from 2020) – Outstanding+ – (96 – 97p) – Tasted 20/09/2014

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Terroir Insight: Domaine Jacques Prieur Musigny

The Musigny from Jacques Prieur is pretty special … as it’s produced on the vineyard Chambolle-Musigny La Combe d’Orveau.

Domaine Jacques Prieur has twice managed to get plots in La Combe d’Orveau promoted to Grand Crus status and included in the Mighty Musigny vineyard.

It’s perhaps not one of the best Musigny produced .. but the history of the vineyard holdings is nevertheless quite intriguing. So lets take a terroir walkabout!

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Photo: Google Street View from the road above Clos de Vougeot.

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La Combe d’Orveau – village, 1er cru and a part of Musigny

The Chambolle-Musigny La Combe d’Orveau is one of the hidden gems of Cote de Nuits. Only a few producers make wine from this slightly overlooked terroir and a part of of the climate is now a part of a “rather” well known grand cru. The grand cru is of course Musigny and the story about the expansion of Musigny is also the story about La Combe d’Orveau a terroir with at least partly grand cru potential.

Chambolle Musigny La Combe d’Orveau is devided in two sections – the 1er cru and grand cru climates located just above Clos de Vougeot on the slope just south of Les Petits Musigny and the village section located further west on the border between Flagey-Echezeaux and Chambolle-Musigny – see map below.

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Update – with new info on the Jacques Prieure holdings

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Domaine Comte de Vogüé, Musigny Vieilles Vignes 2011

The Musigny Vieilles Vignes 2011 from Vogüé is a gorgeous effort – although slight closed now. In the bouquet transparent, cool and refined fruit – notes of raspberries, cherries and pomegranate – brought forward by a intense filigree minerality. On the palate layers of pure, crisp and vibrant fruit – quite firmly structured by the intense minerality of the Musigny terroir. Love the terroir expression and the pure cool fruit – a outstandingly delightful Musigny in the making.

20120309-125513.jpg(Drink from 2028) – Outstanding – (95p) – Tasted 24/09/2014

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Domaine Comte de Vogüé, Chambolle Les Amoureuses 1990

The Amoureuses 1990 from Vogüé has entered a matured stage .. but still have some rustic edges left. The bouquet is showing red and dark fruits, with hints of tar, prune, coffee and sous-bois. On the palate quite rich and weighty for a Amoureuses with a gorgeous minerality. Still some edgy tannins, oak and tarryness .. indicating further cellaring would be optimal.
A lovely mineral driven and slightly rustic Amoureuses from Vogue.

20120309-125513.jpg(Drink from 2018) – Very Fine – (93p) – Tasted 20/09/2014

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J.-F. Coche-Dury, Corton-Charlemagne 1993

The Coche-Dury Corton-Charlemagne 1993 is one of the best and most refined white Burgundies I have ever tasted. The nose is offering a fantastic and almost elusive complexity – white and yellow fruit, delicate nuances of hazelnuts, gunpowder, flint and a very filigree minerality. Matured but still fresh and vibrant. On the palate intense airy fruit – very focused and long with a almost zen like balance – effortless and yet so complex and layered with myriads of filigree details and aromas. The powerful focusing acidity is crisp and fresh. Not a blockbuster – but a extremely refined and intense wine – in a sense somewhat surprising when the expressive style of the domaine meets a terroir like Corton-Charlemagne. A absolutely gorgeous and magnificent wine … love it … and I lack words to describe the delicacy of this delightful Corton Charlie!

20120311-111932.jpg(Drink From Now) – Extraordinary+ – (98p) – Tasted 20/09/2014

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