Bouchard Pere et Fils – improving quality

Bouchard Pere et Fils and for that matter other of the large houses in Beaune have over the recent years really improved quality. They have moved from mass production towards quality that can rival some of the better producers in the different appelations.

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But how big is this improvement? To test this we had a range of Bouchard Pere et Fils, Beaune Greves Vigne l’Enfant Jesus … from 1988 to the latest vintage 2011.

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Bouchard Pere et Fils, Beaune Greves Vigne l’Enfant Jesus 1988

The Beaune Greves Vigne de l’Enfant Jesus 1988 is now in decline. The nose is very mature with complex notes of plum, sous-bois and sadly also some quite strong maderized notes. On the palate quite intense – with some fruit left – slightly maderized and starting to dry out in the finish. The maderized notes are reduced significantly after some time in the glass – and at this point it’ a drinkable wine. Bottom line – too old but still tasteable.

20120309-125513.jpg(Drink Now) – Old – Tasted 01/05/2013.

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Bouchard Pere et Fils, Beaune Greves Vigne l’Enfant Jesus 1999

The Beaune Greves Vigne de l’Enfant Jesus 1999 is still slightly closed and backward. The nose is showing dark and red berry fruit – dense sweet and ripe – with a nice earthy minerality and beginning complexity .. sous-bois and a slight hint of truffle peel. On the palate rich and quite dark with a somewhat dense expression. Lacking a bit of nerve and is in my view slighly high on the alcohol … or at least showing to much alcohol presenly. The development in the glass doesn’t really indicate 10 years more in the cellar – but think it will improve over the next years. Yes it’s big and dense … but prefer the higher quality and style of the recent vintages – not a bad wine though!

20120309-125513.jpg(Drink from Now) – Very Good (88p) – Tasted 01/05/2013.

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Bouchard Pere et Fils, Beaune Greves Vigne l’Enfant Jesus 2007

The Beaune Greves Vigne de l’Enfant Jesus 2007 is very open and already showing some lovely complex matured notes. In the bouquet sweet matured red fruit, with notes of cherries, strawberries and plum – spiced with sous-bois and a slight hint of truffle and coffee. On the palate lovely rich and matured fruit – with a delicate freshness and a nice earthy minerality. The quite virbrant acidity adds focus to the wine – lovely long and tense finish. It’s a lovely wine now – really don’t think it would benefit from more than 5 years extra in the cellar.

20120309-125513.jpg(Drink from Now) – Very Good+ (91p) – Tasted 01/05/2013.

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Bouchard Pere et Fils, Beaune Greves Vigne l’Enfant Jesus 2009

The Beaune Greves Vigne de l’Enfant Jesus 2009 is a rich but quite balanced 2009. In the bouquet sweet red fruits – black cherries, raspberries, red currant spiced with a hint of ruhbarb and wet stones. On the palate quite dense and intense, with layers of sweet fruit. It’s quite vibrant and delicate for the vintage – with a long complex and quite refined finish, A fine 09 in the making – not a wine that requires 20 years in the cellar.

20120309-125513.jpg(Drink from 2018) – Fine (91p) – Tasted 01/05/2013.

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Bouchard Pere et Fils, Beaune Greves Vigne l’Enfant Jesus 2010

The Beaune Greves Vigne de l’Enfant Jesus 2010 is a very intense wine but closing down now. In the bouquet intense and tight red and dark berry fruit – with notes of cherries, raspberries liquorice and plum – rather closedat the moment. On the palate layers of ripe pure fruit with a backbone of earthy minerality, abundant tannins and the fine 2010 acidity. It offers a very rich midpalate and a very long tightly focused finish – need time to soften the grip from the finely grained and ripe tannins. A big wine for this level – need 10 years in the cellar to show you the full potential of this fine terroir.

20120309-125513.jpg(Drink from 2023) – Fine+ (92p) – Tasted 01/05/2013.

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Bouchard Pere et Fils, Beaune Greves Vigne l’Enfant Jesus 2011

The Beaune Greves Vigne de l’Enfant Jesus 2011 is a serious and lovely pinot. In the bouquet delicate red and dark berry fruit – with notes of cherries, raspberries and plum – spiced with some quite refined floral hints. On the palate very harmonious with a quite intense but airy fruit – a nice mineralic tension – and a good backbone of finely grained tannins and acidity. It’s quite muscular for the vintage, and will require some cellaring before the full potential is unleashed. A beautiful wine in the making – love the midpalate intensity and the terroir expression.

20120309-125513.jpg(Drink from 2023) – Fine (91p) – Tasted 01/05/2013.

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Domaine des Croix, Beaune Les Greves 2009

Domaine des Croix is a quite new domaine, based on the old Domaine Duchet. The wines are made by regisseur David Croix, who is also a competent winemaker at Camille Giroud. The Beaune Les Greves 2009 is a typical Cote de Beaune 2009 – it’s quite rich and dense, and slightly on the hot side. The nose is slightly closed, but packed with dark cherries – notes of liqourice and raspberries. The palate is well balanced with good tannins, and the elegant discrete minerality of the Beaune Greves vineyard. It’s rich and subtle … but sadly the alcohol level – 14% – is slightly to high for this wine – noticable in the finnish. It’s a very good wine, and I really like the Beaune Greve vineyard – look out for this wine in a cooler year.

20120309-125513.jpg(Drink From 2021) Very Good – 88p

Tasted 13/04/2012
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