The 2011 Chambolle village from Domaine Comte de Vogüé is a delicate effort. In the bouquet fine red and dark berry fruit – loads of cherries, pomegranate, elderberries, blueberries … fruit driven with a nice filigree minerality. On the palate fruity, transparent – good intensity but still quite lightfooted. A charming effort with a nice transparancy and expression of terroir.
The Bonnes Mares 2011 from Roumier is a big and intense effort. In the nose red and dark fruits, blueberries, red currant, boysenberries spiced with hints of plum and a deep earthy minerality. On the palate big and muscular for the vintage with a relatively dark and dense layered fruit. A big and quite masculine Bonnes Mares – really like the perfumed floral nuances and the intensity – but this will require many years in the cellar before it unfolds completely. If you have the time …
The Bonnes Mares 2011 from Bertheau is very charming and forward – much more so than the Vogue and Roumier versions of the same wine. The nose is brimming with seductive red fruit – intense and spiced with a nice earthy minerality. On the palate quite rich and velvet fruit, less weight than both the Vogue and the Roumier .. airy and quite lightfooted .. but still intense and long. Love the balance and the extrovert drinkability – a gorgeous effort from Bertheau.
The Bonnes Mares 2011 from Vogüé is showing beautifully – matched in a set with the Roumier and Bertheau efforts from the same vineyard and vintage. The nose offer lovely transparent cool red and dark fruit. On the palate very pure and transparent fruit … airy and juicy with a effortless power. Very fine concentration here .. but still very refined for the vineyard. A genuinely delightful Bonnes Mares from Vogüé.
The Musigny 1995 from Dominique Laurent is not a poor wine .. but by most standards a dissappointting Musigny. The bouquet offer red fruit, some matured notes of sous-bois, and lastly some oak elements with a rather strange touch of marcipan. On the palate quite fine concentration and minerality … a bit hollow in the middle within the powerful framework of oak and tannins. A quite nice wine now … but really think the oak and the tannins will get the upper hand in the long run.
Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé is by far the largest owner of Musigny – they own more than 7 ha equivalent to almost 70% of this magnificent grand cru located just north of Chateau Clos de Vougeot.
Musigny is to a large extend Comte de Vogüé and the Comte de Vogüé name is very much linked to this vineyard, although it’s a serious offence to miss out on the other wines from this fine Domaine.
The Comte de Vogüé holdings are very extensive and dates several centuries back … so lets take a closer look at the Musigny holdings of Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé.
The Musigny Vieilles Vignes 2002 from Vogüé is one of my favorite wines from this legendary estate. The bouquet offer vibrant red and darkberry fruit focused by crisp acidity and a gorgeous playful minerality … slightly closed but nevertheless showing well. On the palate excellent concentation for the vintage, very vibrant with a very energetic fruit and minerality .. quite lightfooted but with a quite intense and weighty backbone of mineral infused fruit. Not a dense and mighty wine … just so effortless, invigorating and delightful … love this wine.
The Musigny from Jacques Prieur is pretty special … as it’s produced on the vineyard Chambolle-Musigny La Combe d’Orveau.
Domaine Jacques Prieur has twice managed to get plots in La Combe d’Orveau promoted to Grand Crus status and included in the Mighty Musigny vineyard.
It’s perhaps not one of the best Musigny produced .. but the history of the vineyard holdings is nevertheless quite intriguing. So lets take a terroir walkabout!
The Chambolle-Musigny La Combe d’Orveau is one of the hidden gems of Cote de Nuits. Only a few producers make wine from this slightly overlooked terroir and a part of of the climate is now a part of a “rather” well known grand cru. The grand cru is of course Musigny and the story about the expansion of Musigny is also the story about La Combe d’Orveau a terroir with at least partly grand cru potential.
Chambolle Musigny La Combe d’Orveau is devided in two sections – the 1er cru and grand cru climates located just above Clos de Vougeot on the slope just south of Les Petits Musigny and the village section located further west on the border between Flagey-Echezeaux and Chambolle-Musigny – see map below.
Update – with new info on the Jacques Prieure holdings
The Musigny Vieilles Vignes 2011 from Vogüé is a gorgeous effort – although slight closed now. In the bouquet transparent, cool and refined fruit – notes of raspberries, cherries and pomegranate – brought forward by a intense filigree minerality. On the palate layers of pure, crisp and vibrant fruit – quite firmly structured by the intense minerality of the Musigny terroir. Love the terroir expression and the pure cool fruit – a outstandingly delightful Musigny in the making.
The Amoureuses 1990 from Vogüé has entered a matured stage .. but still have some rustic edges left. The bouquet is showing red and dark fruits, with hints of tar, prune, coffee and sous-bois. On the palate quite rich and weighty for a Amoureuses with a gorgeous minerality. Still some edgy tannins, oak and tarryness .. indicating further cellaring would be optimal.
A lovely mineral driven and slightly rustic Amoureuses from Vogue.
The Musigny 1990 from Roumier is a mind-blowing wine … at age 25 it still needs 5 to 10 years more in the cellar to unfold completely. The bouquet is however quite open at this stage … revealing more and more glimps of the tremendous complexity hiding underneath the intense and quite tightly knit fruit. The nose offers layers of gorgeous redberry fruit, prunes, tar, oriental spices, hints of sous-bois and a beautiful filigree minerality from the mighty Musigny terroir. On the palate very cool and refined for a 1990, with a core of airy yet very intense fruit … its long, powerful, focused and very refined. Love the cool almost regal touch the Musigny terroir adds to the Roumier style. A truly magnificent wine – by quite some margin the best and most refined Roumier I have ever tasted.
The Amoureuses 2000 from Vogüé is entering a lovely matured stage with quite expressive red fruit and a lovely balance and delicacy. The bouquet is showing cool red fruits and a delightful sous-bois with hints of truffle and a delicate minerality. On the palate just starting to show … medium weight, balanced .. fine length for the vintage .. offering a pure and transparant red fruits. Still some tannins in the finish – but well on its way towards maturity. Not a big wine though … but I do love the delicate and almost fragrant expression – a gorgeous “little” Amoureuses.
Frédéric Mugnier is in my view producing some of the most enchanting wines of Burgundy – delicate, complex and sensual.
Top of the Mugnier line is the mighty Musigny, so lets take a closer look at the terroir behind this magnificent wine.
The Chambolle 1er cru from Pacalet is showing better than expected. Slightly closed and dusty in the beginning – bouquet is cleaning up after some time in the glass – with juicy red fruit, layered and slightly darker than normal from Pacalet. Notes of strawberries, boysenberries … spiced with cinnamon … minerality not so distinct. On the palate quite weighty and intense with a long powerful finish – quite fresh for the vintage. Better than expected … very good … but not really a great fan of the 09s.
The Chambolle 1er cru is one of my old favorites from Pacalet – have followed this wine with great pleasure since the 2002 vintage. The 2013 version of this wine seem to be another succes – although its a bit darker than usually. In the bouquet layers of juicy red and dark berry – notes of raspberries, dark cherries spiced with a classic Chambolle minerality and hints of allspice. On the palate layers of juicy fruit – quite intense and well structured. Love the expression of terroir and the effortless delivery of pinot fruit.
The Chambolle village is as always a step up in delicacy and refinement. The bouquet is slightly closed – but still showing fine notes of raspberries and cherries – spiced with hints of allspice and cinnamon. On the palate quite rubust fruit – intense with a playful Chambolle minerality. More tannins than usual – but still quite juicy with a good energy and nerve. A lovely expressive Chambolle village … cant rival the gorgeous 2010 and the 2012 though.
The Chambolle-Musigny 2012 is gorgeaus and perhaps even better than expected. The nose is popping with red fruits – cherries, boysen berries, raspberries .. vibrant and juicy with a quite pronounced Chambolle minerality. On the palate medium weight with a lovely balance between the juicy fresh fruit and the underlying chambolle minerality. A terroir driven village with a lovely acidity … focused, energetic and vibrant … love it.
The Chambolle-Musigny 2010 from Dujac is a brilliant effort – and most likely the best village I have tasted from this fine estate. In the bouquet juicy airy fruit – raspberries, cherries – spiced with at crunchy Chambolle minerality and a liger-belair like hint of oak. On the palate cool and airy fruit – weighty, silky, rich and focused. The effortless intensity in this wine is truly impressive – and so is the zen like balance – love the cool refined expression of the Chambolle terroir … what a village wine.
The Chambolle La Combe d’Orveaux 2012 is a magnificent effort from Bruno Clavelier … one of the very best wines I have tasted from this fine domaine. The bouquet is bursting with layers of juicy red berry fruit … very forward, airy and expressive … all intensified by the powerful minerality from the vineyard located just south of and above Petits Musigny. On the palate layers of open, rich and velvet fruit – very expressive and charming … with the very powerful minerality as a focusing element. Its long, powerful and intense – a stony fist in velvet fruit. In my view very close to grand cru level … very accessible for a young Clavelier.