The Coche-Dury Corton-Charlemagne 1993 is one of the best and most refined white Burgundies I have ever tasted. The nose is offering a fantastic and almost elusive complexity – white and yellow fruit, delicate nuances of hazelnuts, gunpowder, flint and a very filigree minerality. Matured but still fresh and vibrant. On the palate intense airy fruit – very focused and long with a almost zen like balance – effortless and yet so complex and layered with myriads of filigree details and aromas. The powerful focusing acidity is crisp and fresh. Not a blockbuster – but a extremely refined and intense wine – in a sense somewhat surprising when the expressive style of the domaine meets a terroir like Corton-Charlemagne. A absolutely gorgeous and magnificent wine … love it … and I lack words to describe the delicacy of this delightful Corton Charlie!
The Corton Charlie 2012 from Bouchard is a delightful effort. On the nose fine citrus infused minerality and a lovely fresh and refined fruit – white orchard fruits with notes of pear and apple. On the palate quite some weight and richness but with a effortless freshness and verve. Really like the combination of the rich 2012 fruit and the powerful structure from the Charlie terroir. Bouchard did a fine job on the Corton hill in this vintage.
The Ambroise Corton Charlie 2001 is a powerful effort. In the nose yellow fruits, green apple – spiced with almonds, fennel and a stony minerality. On the palate tight, pure and intense with a very strong acidic backbone and a crunchy minerality. It’s slightly monolithic at the moment and need time to resolve and fully integrate the oak. A serious wine … would give it 5 years more in the cellar – a fine rather than great Charlie.
The 2011 Corton Charlie from Boillot is both gorgeous and impressive. The nose is open and expressive with lovely orchard fruits – notes of apple, pear, citrus – spiced with gun powder, a intense minerality and quite ample oak. On the palate very fine concentration and weight … it’s focused, pure and refined. Love the balance and the rewardingly rich fruit – it’s big and quite powerful but still delicate and focused with a long mineral infused finish. This seems to be a very fine vintage for Charlies … and Boillot certainly nailed this one – a beautiful wine.
The Corton Charlemagne 2012 from Domaine Dublere is a gorgeous effort. In the bouquet rich orchard fruits with notes of pear, pineapple and citrus – supported by a crisp and focused minerality. On the palate rich and almost opulent fruit – beautifully balanced by the powerful minerality and the very crisp acidity. Love the balance and the expressive fruit – it’s a quite charming and forward Charlie – but still very precise and focused with impressive length and intensity. A very fine wine in the making.
The Corton-Charlemagne 2011 from Poisot is a charming effort. In the bouquet fresh orchard fruits – pear and peach with a delicate expression of citrus infused mineralic terroir. On the palate good length and balance – lovely pure midpalate fruit with fine depth and focus. It’s quite forward, harmonious and charming with a quite understated delicate complexity from the grand cru terroir. A nice year for Corton Charlie – a pleasure wine.
Remi Poisot have made some lovely 2012s – and the Cortin Chalie is no exception. The Corton-Charlemagne terroir with it’s firm structure really suits the style of the 2012 whites. The bouquet is showing pure and quite exotic fruit – peach, melon, hints of acacia and oak. On the palate quite dense and rich but with a very nice balance and focus from the mineralic terroir. It’s a quite refined and rich Charlie in the making.
The 2009 Corton Charlie from Bonneau du Martray is a fine effort for the vintage but nevetheless it’s a typical 09 white Burgundy. The nose is quite expressive with yellow fruits – pear and apple adding some more exotic notes of acacia and acacia flower with hints of oak and gunpowder. On the palete rich and dense with a quite good balance from the strog terroir. For the vintage it’s a very fine effort, but for me it’s too opulent and rich – lacking some of the mineralic tension of the colder vintages like 2008 and 2010. A big wine …. but in my view missing a bit of vibrant freshness and nerve.
The 2004 Corton Charlie from Bonneau du Martray is a lovely and harmonious effort. In the nose lovely quite matured notes – hazelnuts and Belle de Boskoop apple – yellow fruits with a hint of acacia and a citrus infused chalky minerality. On the palate rich, deep and focused fruit, with a lovely delicacy for the 2004 vintage. It’s long and intense with a beautiful mineralic backbone. A very enjoyable Charlie in the making – lovely now … but will be even better after a couple of years more in the cellar.
The Corton Charlie 2011 from Pacalet is a very refined and hamonious effort. The bouquet offer delicate and ripe fruit – with notes of melon, pear and some fine floral elements – spiced with a delicate citrus infused stony minerality. On the palate very intense and balanced fruit … focused towards the long and mineralic finish. This wine is about beautiful balance rather than brute power. A very harmonious and refined Charlie … very impressive.
The Corton-Charlemagne 2000 from Bonneau du Martray is approaching a mature state. The impression just after opening the bottle is quite advanced, with some fat buttery notes, but after some time in the glass the focus and freshness returns to the wine. The bouquet is quite expressive with mature yellow fruit, almonds and citrus infuzed minerality. on the palate rich and quite dense fruit – but after some time in the glass also a nice focusing acidity and minerality. A quite big and soft Charlie – and drinking well now.
The Corton-Charlemagne 2011 from Bouchard is a gorgeous and classic Charlie. The bouquet is crystaline in it’s purity … with pure ripe and fresh orchard fruits, citrus notes and a powerful but filligree minerality. On the palate very fresh and crisp fruit, a very vibrant acidity and a powerful mineralic backbone. There is real power and poise here – very intense with great length and mineralic weight. A very balanced and harmonious Chalie – refined with a lovely mineralic tension. Truly impressive effort from Bouchard – really enjoyed this wine.
The Corton-Charlemagne from Domaine Poisot is a quite forward and charming Charlie . the bouquet is quite open with white orchard fruits, acacia and a lovely chalky mineralic base. On the palate pure yellow fruit with a very fine density and a long quite rich finish. The fruit is deep and quite dense – old vines, average age is 50 years. It’s quite accessible for a Corton-Charlemagne, and with a lovely expression of the terroir and the vintage. This is not a big and tough Charlie, but a charming quite approcable wine – lovely by my standards.
It’s rare to see new producers or owners on the big grand crus in Vosne Romanee, but during my work on the articles about Romanee-Saint-Vivant vineyard I discovered a new and for me unknown producer on this fine vineyard – Domaine Poisot.
The story is however much more complex, as the history of the Poisot holdings on Romanee-Saint-Vivant dates back to 1902. For decades they have however only been bottling very small quantities of RSV under the Poisot label – and sold the main part of the production off to negociants – so while it’s an old ownership it’s really a new producer of Romanee-Saint-Vivant.
The Corton Charlemagne 2011 from Domaine Dublere is a real beauty. In the bouquet lovely white orchard fruits with notes of apple, pear, citrus and gooseberries. On the palate lovely mineral driven fruit flavores, very refined and harmonious. The palate is quite rich and round for a Corton Charlemagne, but still very precise and focused with a impressive length and intensity. A beautiful wine.
The Corton Charlemagne 2011 is a classical white Corton. In the nose fine ripe fruit, with notes of melon, pear, citrus and chalk. On the palate a quite lush fruit, but also a strong mineralic backbone and a fresh and zappy acidity. A lovely classic and balanced wine in the making.
J.-F. Coche-Dury is a legend among the producers of white Burgundy. This video from Obiwine gives you a guided tour to the cellars of Coche-Dury, and a introduction to Meursault by the master himself – Enjoy.
Video from the cellars of J.-F. Coche-Dury
The Bonneau du Martray Corton Charlemagne 2006 showing quite well. In the bouquet yellow fruits – melon, apple and gooseberries with a hint of anise and oak. It’s quite refined and discrete. On the palate fine and well structured with good acidity and minerality. The wine is quite openly knit for a Corton Charlemagne, with strong notes of apple in the midpalate. The fruit is quite rich, with a quite long almost creamy finish. A fine wine … but also surprisingly developed and accessible … in my view not a wine for long term cellaring.
The Bonneau du Martray Corton Charlemagne 2000 is a lovely wine. I have enjoyed this wine several times during the last three years, and it continues to provide pleasure. This bottle was slightly more developed, but still fresh and nervy. In the bouquet stunning purity, aromas of apple, hay and white flowers. On the palate fine, quite rich fruit, charming, but with a very good structure of minerality and acidity. Simply a pleasure – will keep but lovely now.
The 1990 Corton Charlemagne from Bonneau du Martray is now entering a semi mature state. In the bouquet still quite youthful with citrus and grapefruit notes, but also some quite mature notes – bread crust, slight almond and a hint of caramel. On the palate very good length and weight from the terroir, a real aristocratic wine. Fresh vibrant and nervy acidity, a very strong impression of the terroir and minerality – a classical Corton Charlemagne. A really impressive wine, – it’s elegant, refined and quite powerfull in a quite steely and linear way. Not very complex yet, but has a zen like balance – must say I really enjoyed this wine. Will keep for decades in a cold cellar … but why wait?