The Gevrey Chambertin 1er cru 2011 from Mugneret-Gibourg is made from the young vines on Ruchottes Chambertin – please note in 2012 all the production will be bottled as Ruchottes. The 2011 version is very harmonious and quite forward with layers of fruit and a lovely complex expession of terroir. The nose is bursting with delicate red and dark berry fruit – notes of raspberries, red and dark cherries … spiced with a complex earthy minerality. On the palate lovely airy fruit with good midpalete weight supported by finely grained tannins. It’s very balanced and transparent – showing the lovely complexity of the Ruchottes terroir. A very harmonious effort … really like this producer and I adore the Ruchottes terroir.
The Gevrey Chambertin V.V. 2011 is a classic Dugat-Py. In the nose tight and quite compact red and dark berry fruit – mainly notes of raspberries .. spiced with hints of oak and gun powder. On the palate equally tight with a good structure, pure raspberry fruit … quite muscular and weighty for a village. Will need plenty of time to unfold.
Photo by Frederik Kreutzer
The Gevrey-Chambertin Lavaux St. Jacques 1999 is starting to show some matured notes. In the bouquet red and dark berry fruit … raspberries with hints of sweeter red fruits, sous-bois, spiced with hints of gun powder and oak. On the palate quite muscular with a core of raspberry fruit, it’s still quite tight but starting to show some complexity. The finish is long with a quite strong impression of earthy minerality and oak. Perhaps a bit to extracted … and it certainly needs time to unfold … but will most likely never be a real charmer.
The Gevrey-Chambertin Les Champeaux 1996 from Dennis Mortet is still very undeveloped and tightly knit. The bouquet is bursting with gun powder and raspberries … with only a few signs of age. On the palate tight and edgy with a powerful midpalate of extracted fruit. Not showing much development and is in the current stage quite monolithic and is lacking charm and complexity. Not a bad wine … but will it ever mature and show the delicate complexity we are looking for in a Burgundy at this level? Just not my style of Burgundy.
The Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Saint Jacques 2007 from Rousseau is still quite young and forward. The nose is quite refined with fine berry notes of red currant, cherries and raspberries … spiced with a touch of oak and a nice earthy minerality. On the palate harmonious and medium weight fruit – the finish is long and quite intense for the vintage. A delicate and quite feminine Clos Saint Jacques in the making.
The Laveaux Saint Jacques 2011 from Rousseau is energetic and still very tightly knit. In the bouquet fine red berry fruit quite floral with a nice earthy minerality. On the palate medium weight and quite tight – with good energy and length. It’s pure and balanced but not showing much depth at the moment. Need at least 5 years to unfold and preferebly 10 years to show the full potential.
The Mazoyeres Chambertin 1978 from Domaine Camus is holding up pretty well! In the nose expressive sweet mature red pinot fruit spiced with orange/orange zest and a heavy dose of earthy sous bois – fully mature, complex and a bit fragile. On the palate light/medium body with a certain rich feel on the midpalate. It’s harmonious with the sweet orange infused fruit as the dominant element .. the finish has good weight and a fresh kick from the acidity. Quite lovely and delicate balance … slightly fragile … but alive and kicking. Not a big wine and perhaps fading a bit … nevertheless a quite lovely old mature Burgundy. So back in the days Camus actually produced drinkable wines!!
The Gevrey Clos Saint Jacques 1990 from Jadot is showing gorgeously. The bouquet is brimming with mature red berry fruit, sous-bois, truffle, orange zest and a lovely earthy mineral note. On the palate layers of mature fruit – rich, seductive and with a long intense mineral driven finish. A very expressive and delightful wine … with all the qualities a mature Burgundy should have. I have tasted several of the Jadot 1990s and while the others are fine – the Clos Saint Jacques is really taking it to another level. What a treat.
The entry level at Domaine du Clos Frantin is the Gevrey Les Murots village – a lovely pure and quite openly knit Gevrey. In the bouquet lovely pure fruit and a nice earthy minerality with the oak slightly forward. On the palate quite rich and dense fruit – quite weighty for this level – with a good long and balanced finish.
The Chambertin 2012 from Frantin is a very refined and seductive wine. In the nose very elegant and cool offering airy red fruit, wet stones in a otherwise quite earthy minerality. On the palate very airy and intense red and dark fruit – dancing like a ballerina on a intense yet very refined and finely grained minerality. It’s long and very intense but still lightfooted and very filigree – a truly beautiful and refined Chambertin.
The Gevrey-Chambertin Bel Air 2010 from Philippe Pacalet is delightfully transparent but still tightly structured. In the nose red berry fruit …. notes of red currant, strawberries … spiced with hints of cinnamon and a quite powerful earthy minerality. On the palate tightly structured with a lovely intensity and power … love the transparancy and the display of terroir. A quite muscular wine for the producer with a powerful minerality and precise acidity – very impressive and lovely.
(Drink from 2021) – Fine+ (92p) – Tasted 19/11/2013
The Gevrey village 2010 from Philippe Pacalet is a delightfully transparent and delicate effort. In the nose crisp and airy red fruit – spiced with cinnamon, allspice and a nice earthy minerality. On the palate a lightfooted and delicate expression of pinot fruit – transparent and very airy with a lovely display of terroir. Not a big wine … but delightful with a tremendous drinkability .. the 2010s from Pacalet are magnificent
The 1990 Gevrey Les Cazetiers from Philippe Leclerc is a rustic and quite youthful wine. In the nose rustic red berry fruit with strong notes of tar and a earthy minerality. On the palate – muscular and intense – quite openly knit with with a almost Rhone like fruit. Not the most focused wine … but it’s big, burly and somehow quite charming in a strangely rustic way. A quite dramatic wine … with a label to match the content.
The Latriciere Chambertin 1991 from Jean and Jean-Louis Trapet is a old school and somewhat rustic Burgundy. In the nose red and dark berry fruit – raspberries with some sweeter red fruit notes – spiced with truffle peels, sous-bois and tar. On the palate quite intense and edgy with plenty of grip and tannins – the fruit is somewhat rustic with some slightly disturbing hints of prune. Love the minerality, but the overall impression is a bit to rustic for my taste – nevertheless a nice mature Burgundy.
The Laveaux Saint Jacques 1999 from Dugat-Py is a dense and youthful wine. In the bouquet loads of primary fruit … slightly monolithic .. with powerful notes of raspberries – quite dark fruit but still expressive and forward. On the palate rich and muscular yet quite silky fruit … a powerhouse with more balance than refinement. On the positive side .. a big and quite harmonious wine. On the negative side .. somewhat extracted and with almost no sign of maturity at age 15. Will this ever develop full complexity … or will the extraction continue to dominate the wine? In this case the fruit is abundant – so will give a chance – and therefore a very good+ rating.
The 2000 Ruchottes Chambertin from Domaine Armand Rousseau is a quite delightful effort for the vintage. In the bouquet quite airy red berry fruit with hints of sous-bois, truffle and cinnamon. On the palate expressive and quite juicy fruit with a nice intensity for the vintage. Not a big and dense wine – but harmonious and quite refined with a lovely eathy minerality. Love the energy from the terroir – a lovely 2000 approaching maturity.
The 2002 Chambertin from Domaine Armand Rousseau is a delightful and refined effort. In the bouquet layers of airy red berry fruit with hints of sous-bois – still quite youthful but very refined and subtle. On the palate rich, crisp and cool fruit – refined and elegant with a very fine midpalate intensity – good weight and concentration but still very airy and delicate for a Chambertin. Love the effortless refinement and admire the intensity – a gorgeous Chambertin in the making. Enjoyable now – but need 10 years more to unfold the full potential.
The Coeur de Roy 1999 is starting to show. In the nose dark and intense fruit – notes of raspberries, blueberries, a hint of iron, sous-bois and truffle peel. On the palate dense and very weighty for a village, with a powerful structure of tannins as a backbone. The midpalate fruit is quite lovely but the finish is still somewhat rustic and tannic . A very robust village – need 5 years more in the cellar to unfold – but will most likely never be the epitome of refinement.
The Gevrey Chambertin village 09 from Faiveley is very open and polished. In the nose slightly toasted oak – hint of sous-bois with a rather dense note of red and dark berry fruit. On the palate rich and velvet … well balanced …. but slightly dense. Like the drinkability … but the style and the vintage is perhaps not the recipe for freshness. Faiveley has something going ..would love to taste the 2010.
The Chames Chambertin 2007 from Serafin is not showing well. The oak is still quite dominant in the nose but also notes of candied red fruit with hints of elderberries and raspberries. On the palate pure red fruit – quite light for a grand cru and lacking some depth in the fruit. The oak is still quite prominent in the wine … need some time to integrate this. Not bad wine but nevertheless a quite disappointing effort from Serafin.