The Gevrey-Chambertin is showing beautifully and is even better than expected. The nose is bursting with layers of sweet airy red fruit – very charming with nice hints of allspice and cinnamon. On the palate very forward and delightful … quite openly knit with a lovely weightless feel. Not the most concentrated of the village wines in 2012 … but it’s simply gorgeous.
The Lavaux Saint Jacques 2007 from Rousseau is a lovely slightly understated effort. The nose is offering fine cool red berry fruit – notes of raspberries, sous-bois and a discrete underlying earthy minerality. On the palate lovely openly knit fruit … finely focused by the quite delicate minerality. A lovely harmonious effort .. and not trying too hard.
The Lavaux Saint Jacques 2012 from Pacalet is showing beautifully. The nose is crammed with layers of vibrant red fruit … very juicy with notes of strawberries, pomegranate and raspberries – spiced with allspice and pepper and a deep earthy mineralty. The palate offer a focusing core of ripe and pure coulis fruit – adding depth to the mulitible layers of energetic red fruit. The finish is long – with a refined display of terroir – giving a zen-like balance to the wine. A truly beautiful wine!
The Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Saint-Jacques 1996 from Jadot has entered a lovely semi-matured stage. The bouquet is expressive offering a nice selection of red and dark berries spiced with tar, truffles and sous-bois. The sweeter red fruit is tanking over – but still some unresolved dark fruit. On the palate excellent fruit .. quite rich and very well stuctured by the powerful 96 acidity .. still a core of unresolved dark fruit. A gorgeous wine with a lovely airy balance .. beautiful complexity .. a classic … need 5 years more to show the full potential.
Gevrey-Chambertin Les Cherbaudes is a new terroir for me … but hopefully this is not the last time I taste a Fourrier from this vineyard. This relatively unknown terroir is located in a sweetspot just below Mazis-Chambertin and Fourrier has a 0.67 ha plot planted in 1940. The nose is bursting with layers of red and dark berry fruit … pure, organic and juicy with a lovely earthy mineralty. On the palate rich and vibrant with a lovely energy and tension. Love the fruit expression and the terroir offer depth and complexity … a lovely wine.
I was very impressed and delighted when I tasted the 2012 reds from cask, and recent tastings of the first 2012s from bottle more than confirm the very positive first impressions.
The Gevrey-Chambertin Bel Air 2012 from Pacalet is showing great form.
The nose is bursting with red coulis fruit – raspberries, strawberrie and pomegranate – spiced white peppar and a slight citrus note. On the palate quite forward with a intense core of fruit and vibrant earthy minerality. The minerality is both powerful and deep … bringing a lovely nerve and focus to the wine. I really love this slightly overlooked terroir … very energetic and juicy.
One of the most famous 1er crus in Burgundy is Gevrey-Chambertin Le Clos Saint-Jacques. This fine reputation is primarily build by Domaine Armand Rousseau, who makes a magnificent wine from this vineyard.
There are however also other fine wines from this terroir – so lets explore the history and ownership a bit further.
Ruchottes-Chambertin is in my view one of the most interesting terroirs in Gevrey-Chambertin. The vineyard is small yet it includes two climates and one Clos and monopole – nothing is ever simple in Burgundy.
The Gevrey Chambertin 1er cru 2011 from Mugneret-Gibourg is made from the young vines on Ruchottes Chambertin – please note in 2012 all the production will be bottled as Ruchottes. The 2011 version is very harmonious and quite forward with layers of fruit and a lovely complex expession of terroir. The nose is bursting with delicate red and dark berry fruit – notes of raspberries, red and dark cherries … spiced with a complex earthy minerality. On the palate lovely airy fruit with good midpalete weight supported by finely grained tannins. It’s very balanced and transparent – showing the lovely complexity of the Ruchottes terroir. A very harmonious effort … really like this producer and I adore the Ruchottes terroir.
The Gevrey Chambertin V.V. 2011 is a classic Dugat-Py. In the nose tight and quite compact red and dark berry fruit – mainly notes of raspberries .. spiced with hints of oak and gun powder. On the palate equally tight with a good structure, pure raspberry fruit … quite muscular and weighty for a village. Will need plenty of time to unfold.
Photo by Frederik Kreutzer
The Gevrey-Chambertin Lavaux St. Jacques 1999 is starting to show some matured notes. In the bouquet red and dark berry fruit … raspberries with hints of sweeter red fruits, sous-bois, spiced with hints of gun powder and oak. On the palate quite muscular with a core of raspberry fruit, it’s still quite tight but starting to show some complexity. The finish is long with a quite strong impression of earthy minerality and oak. Perhaps a bit to extracted … and it certainly needs time to unfold … but will most likely never be a real charmer.
The Gevrey-Chambertin Les Champeaux 1996 from Dennis Mortet is still very undeveloped and tightly knit. The bouquet is bursting with gun powder and raspberries … with only a few signs of age. On the palate tight and edgy with a powerful midpalate of extracted fruit. Not showing much development and is in the current stage quite monolithic and is lacking charm and complexity. Not a bad wine … but will it ever mature and show the delicate complexity we are looking for in a Burgundy at this level? Just not my style of Burgundy.
The Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Saint Jacques 2007 from Rousseau is still quite young and forward. The nose is quite refined with fine berry notes of red currant, cherries and raspberries … spiced with a touch of oak and a nice earthy minerality. On the palate harmonious and medium weight fruit – the finish is long and quite intense for the vintage. A delicate and quite feminine Clos Saint Jacques in the making.
The Laveaux Saint Jacques 2011 from Rousseau is energetic and still very tightly knit. In the bouquet fine red berry fruit quite floral with a nice earthy minerality. On the palate medium weight and quite tight – with good energy and length. It’s pure and balanced but not showing much depth at the moment. Need at least 5 years to unfold and preferebly 10 years to show the full potential.
The Mazoyeres Chambertin 1978 from Domaine Camus is holding up pretty well! In the nose expressive sweet mature red pinot fruit spiced with orange/orange zest and a heavy dose of earthy sous bois – fully mature, complex and a bit fragile. On the palate light/medium body with a certain rich feel on the midpalate. It’s harmonious with the sweet orange infused fruit as the dominant element .. the finish has good weight and a fresh kick from the acidity. Quite lovely and delicate balance … slightly fragile … but alive and kicking. Not a big wine and perhaps fading a bit … nevertheless a quite lovely old mature Burgundy. So back in the days Camus actually produced drinkable wines!!
The Gevrey Clos Saint Jacques 1990 from Jadot is showing gorgeously. The bouquet is brimming with mature red berry fruit, sous-bois, truffle, orange zest and a lovely earthy mineral note. On the palate layers of mature fruit – rich, seductive and with a long intense mineral driven finish. A very expressive and delightful wine … with all the qualities a mature Burgundy should have. I have tasted several of the Jadot 1990s and while the others are fine – the Clos Saint Jacques is really taking it to another level. What a treat.
The entry level at Domaine du Clos Frantin is the Gevrey Les Murots village – a lovely pure and quite openly knit Gevrey. In the bouquet lovely pure fruit and a nice earthy minerality with the oak slightly forward. On the palate quite rich and dense fruit – quite weighty for this level – with a good long and balanced finish.
The Chambertin 2012 from Frantin is a very refined and seductive wine. In the nose very elegant and cool offering airy red fruit, wet stones in a otherwise quite earthy minerality. On the palate very airy and intense red and dark fruit – dancing like a ballerina on a intense yet very refined and finely grained minerality. It’s long and very intense but still lightfooted and very filigree – a truly beautiful and refined Chambertin.
The Gevrey-Chambertin Bel Air 2010 from Philippe Pacalet is delightfully transparent but still tightly structured. In the nose red berry fruit …. notes of red currant, strawberries … spiced with hints of cinnamon and a quite powerful earthy minerality. On the palate tightly structured with a lovely intensity and power … love the transparancy and the display of terroir. A quite muscular wine for the producer with a powerful minerality and precise acidity – very impressive and lovely.
(Drink from 2021) – Fine+ (92p) – Tasted 19/11/2013