The Meursault Charmes 2010 from Antoine Jobard is a truly delightful effort. The nose is classic with quite expressive notes of melon, white peach, acacia, spiced with a discrete citrus infused minerality. On the palate rich and generous – with amble fruit focused by a fine acidity and a fine minerality for this terroir. Very harmonious and forward – a beautiful Meursault Charmes – from one of my favorite producers of white Burgundy.
The Meursault Clos de la Barre 2007 from Lafon is showing well. Attractive fresh bouquet … white fruit, pear, apple … spiced with seashells and a citrus infused minerality. On the palate focused crisp with a lovely fresh acidity and a nice mineralic kick in the finish. Really like the defined focus and energy in this Meursault … a beautiful effort … lovely now – drink while it still have a vibrant freshness,
This bottle of Meursault Clos de la Barre 05 from Lafon was sadly quite badly premoxed. Dark yellow color. In the bouquet apples, some acacia … oxidized and slightly maderized. On the palate .. still quite rich … but fading fruit … acidity quite forward in the finish. Fading in the glass … too bad.
The Meursault Les Perrieres 2007 from Chateau de Puligny-Montrachet is quite forward and developed .. but showing well. The nose is crammed with yellow fruit – notes of apples and hazelnuts spiced with a discrete citrus infused minerality. On the palate rich, quite intense and weighty with a nice vibrant acidity … good energy and balance. A very good wine … but quite developed … and somehow a bit disappointing for the terroir and the vintage..
The Genevrieres 2012 from Bouchard is a rather expressive wine. On the nose rich and quite forward yellow fruits … notes of acacia, pear … infused with a citrus driven minerality. On the palate rich and intense .. slightly on the dense side lacking a bit of vibrancy and refinement to equel the best on this gorgeous terroir. Its nevertheless a fine effort with a lovely minerality and weight.
The Meursault Les Luchets 2012 – located on the slope above Meix Chaveaux is showing more mineral character and refinement. In the nose airy white orchard fruit with hints of acacia and a lovely citrus infused minerality. On the palate lovely midpalate fruit – good weight – firmly structured by a lovely crunchy minerality and a crisp acidity. Really love the airy transparency of this wine … and the fresh and mineralic finish is gorgeous. A truly beautiful village.
The Porusot is a step up in mineralic intensity from the village wines … in its own slightly edgy way. The nose offers an equal balance between white and yellow orchard fruits infused by a citrusy deep minerality. On the palate quite ample deep fruit supported by a quite powerful slightly rustic minerality. This is a forward and powerful Meursault .. forward with a slightly rustic charm … refinement is just not the strong point of this terroir. Nevertheless a lovely wine.
The Meursault Tesson 2012 is a step up in concentration and intensity from the Les Luchets. In the bouquet deeper and more intense fruit .. balanced more toward the intense yellow fruit … with a deep more powerful minerality underneath the ample fruit. On the palate … same story layers of deep and quite powerful fruit on the midpalate .. brought forward by a deeply constituted minerality and a crisp and focusing acidity. A truly fine Meursault in the making … this is clearly in 1er cru territory?
The Miex Chaveaux 2012 is a step up in weight and concentration. On the palate pure and rather intense white and yellow fruit … quite extrovert and openly knit. On the palate very good midpalate weight for this level …. lovely pure fruit … with a nice focusing .. slightly salty minerality. A lovely … somewhat voluptuous Meursault .. a charming effort.
The “generic” Meursault 2012 from Roulot is showing all the qualities of the vintage. The bouquet is quite forward offering a quite intense aromatic profile of white and yellow fruits spiced with a quite intense citrus infused minerality. On the palate lovely fruit – intense and finely focused by the fine acidity … quite weighty but fresh and crisp. A quite powerful village in the making.
The Meursault Clos des Boucheres is a quite new wine in the Roulot impressive line-up of Meursault wines – the first vintage was 2011. This gorgeous vineyard located above the northern part of Porusot and just south of Goutte d’Or. This vineyard combines refinement with some of the mineralic power found in the Porusot – the result is delightful and delicate. In the nose gorgeous airy white fruit with a lovely almost filigree citrus infused minerality. On the palate airy and refined fruit … just so effortless with a lovely transparency and mineralic lift. This is a remarkably refined and elegant Meursault … an adorable wine.
Les Perrieres is the missing grand cru of Meursault with its sheer weight and underlying mineralic power. Roulot’s Perrieres is made from a perfectly located plot on the northern part of Perrieres Dessous … and it’s a quite big step up in quality and especially weight from the other lovely Meursault’s in the Roulot line-up. In the nose gorgeously pure white and yellow orchard fruits – notes of pear and more exotic fruit – brought forward and focused by a powerful yet refined minerality. On the palate crystal clear weighty and powerful – with ample and very pure fruit – focused and energized by a very intense minerality. The finish is long and very persistent … these are the qualities of a grand cru. A both impressive and gorgeous Meursault Perrieres … salute!
The 2011 Meursault Les Tesson Clos de Mon Plaisir is showing very well. In the nose pure white and yellow fruit … quite rich for the vintage with a lovely citrus and hazelnut infused minerality. On the palate fresh and refined fruit – very balanced and harmonious with a focused and very persistent finish for this level. The acidity is quite powerful but filigree and the underlying minerality in the finish is very energetic. Offers a beautiful balance between refinement and power that is rarely seen in a village wine … gorgeous glass of Meursault.
The 2007 Roulots are starting to show more complexity with some maturing notes. The Meursault Les Tessons Clos de Mon Plaisir 2007 offer a approachble bouquet with quite expressive notes of white peach, hazelnuts, allmonds and citrus infused minerality. On the palate lovely midpalate fruit focused by the impressive 07 acidity … superbly balanced with a fine energy and nerve. Love the balance in this 07 as the fruit is a finely tuned match for the powerful acidity.
The 2005 Meursault Perrieres from Roulot is a brilliant effort for this vintage. The bouquet is open and quite expressive with notes of orchard fruits – pear, apricot .. spiced with hints of citrus, almonds, hazelnuts and a quite intense minerality. On the palate very harmonious and focused with a lovely midpalate fruit …. effortless and airy … with a intense underlying minerality. The finish is long, intense but also very refined. A great Perrieres … what a gorgeous wine … very focused for the vintage.
The 2011 Meursault from Benjamin Leroux is a quite impressive effort. The nose offer fresh and pure notes of citrus, pear with hints of apple and some more exotic orchard fruits. On the palate quite rich and rounded with a lovely balance and depth. The minerality offer a nice support in the finish adding to the complexity … according to my sources it’s made 100% from the delightful Crotots terroir (located just below Porusot). A very good Meursault from Leroux.
Photo by Frederik Kreutzer
Sadly quite premoxed … however not totally undrinkable.
Need to mention that Etienne de Montille is one of the few producers who has been quite open and forward about the premox problems. He really deserves some credit for his open approach … others could learn a great deal from this … no need to mention names!
The “R” Meursault village 2010 from Jean-Marc Roulot is a truly gorgeous effort. The bouquet is very expressive with crisp orchard fruits and a beautiful citrus driven minerality. It’s perhaps a bit more openly knit than the domaine Meursaults from Roulot … but very charming and forward. On the palate lovely quite openly knit fruit … very good weight and length for this level … and very focused by the excellent acidity and a fine minerality. A very impressive and lovely village Meursault.
Very badly premoxed – undrinkable.
Old wines should be treated with respect and given the appropriate time to resolve in the glas. This is true for most wines, but especially old white Burgundies can be misunderstood and wasted if they are not given sufficient time in the glas. This bottle of 1986 Meursault Charmes from Bouchard Pere et Fils seemed tired and slightly oxidative when it was poured … and it took at least 10 – 15 minutes in the glass before it started to show it’s qualities. After quite some time in the glass it showed the most lovely mature complexity combined with a delightful vibrant freshness. In the nose yellow fruit, acacia, almonds and hazelnuts with notes of orange zest and coffee. On the palate pure and quite crisp, with a lovely balance and weight. It’s not a big wine, but a perfectly mature old white Burgundy … with all the qualities an old white Burgundy should possess … but rarely have.