The Morey-Saint-Denis Tres Girard 2011 from Cecile Tremblay is a delightful wine. The nose is quite expressive with lovely forward fruit – notes of cherries, raspberries .. hints of plum and slightly toasted oak. On the palate lovely quite openly knit fruit … forward and juicy with a nice weight. It’s offering great pleasure and held it’s ground well served after a Mortet Laveaux Chambertin 1999. This is however not a big terroir wine … but it’s a gorgeous glass of pinot … happy juice!
The Hubert Lignier Morey-Saint-Denis Tres Girard is an old school and somewhat rustic Morey. In the nose red and dark berry fruit .. a bit on the austere side. On the palate quite rustic with plenty of structure and tannins – it’s pure but not very focused. A genuine old fashioned Morey that will require some time to resolve. Sadly not quite at the same level as the Hubert Lignier wines of the 1990s and early 2000s … but nevertheless a honest glass of Morey.
Photo by Frederik Kreutzer
The Clos de la Roche 2011 from Ponsot is a very intense and special wine. In the nose delicate sweet almost perfumed ripe fruit with notes of forest strawberries, raspberries, liqueur … spiced with violets and a deep but discrete earthy minerality. The fruit in the nose is airy and delicate with no restraints from new oak. On the palate very ripe airy fruit …. outstanding midpalate weight and concentration …. culminating in a very balanced long finish with a very fine focusing acidity. The layers of ripe fruit infuse aromas of red berry fruit, prune and plum. A big and very special wine … with a unique balance between the rich, ripe and airy fruit and the framwork of intense minrality and crisp acidity. The sweet and ripe midpalate is currently a bit over the top for me …. nevertheless an outstanding wine.
Photo by Frederik Kreutzer
The Clos de la Bussiere 2011 from Roumier is showing very well. In the nose crisp and quite delicate red and dark berry fruit, with a earthy minerality, a slight floral tone and a initial touch of oak. On the palate focused, crisp and harmanious – the tannins are finely grained and refined and offer fine support. It’s a very elegant and delicate Bussiere … but still a quite substantial wine with very good weight and power. Very impressive for the vintage.
The Morey Clos Solon 2011 from Domaine Fourrier is a pretty little wine. The nose is offering fresh and pure red berry fruit, with notes of red and darker cherries. The palate offer quite delicate fruit – it’s rather light but balanced, crisp and harmonious with a nice length. Not a big wine … but nevertheless quite lovely and enjoyable.
The Clos de la Roche 1999 from Dujac is a gorgeous wine … and is showing fine form. The nose is expressive with crisp and quite floral red berry fruit supported by a lovely earthy minerality. On the palate delightful and vibrant red fruit … lovely energy and balance. This wine is more forward and floral than a bottle tasted a year ago … but is somehow also missing a bit of weight compared to the previous bottle. It’s nevertheless a both impressive and very delightful wine …. quite adorable for a 1999.
I really love Ponsot wines when they are open and accessible … sadly it’s somehow difficult to find the drinking window on the Ponsot wines. Quite a lot of 1999 reds are starting to show beautifully – but this is not the case with Clos de la Roche from Ponsot. The nose is quite dark and slightly introvert with raspberries, plum, tar, dark cherries and some exotic asian spices … curry! On the palate it’s quite dense and intense, but not very powerful for the vintage. It needs 5 to 10 years more in the cellar to unfold. A very fine glass of pinot … but at the moment its lacking the Ponsot magic. Drink the 2000 and keep the 2002 and the 1999 in the cellar.
The Morey-Saint-Denis Blanchards 1er cru is another of my favorite wines from Domaine Dublere. In the bouquet complex and transparent layers of red fruits with notes of pomegranate, strawberries and raspberries – spiced with a earthy minerality. On the palate a silky but juicy fruit with layers of pure red pinot aromas – focused and quite refined for this appellation. It’s not a great mineralic terroir but it offers a gorgeous drinkability with it’s lovely fruit and crisp acidity. Get plenty … they seem to vanish from the cellar.
The Clos de la Roche 1999 from Hubert Lignier is still very youthful and a real powerhouse. In the bouquet intense dark fruits, cherries, liquorice, oriental spices and a hint of sous-bois. On the palate quite dense and dark fruit, it’s rich but also quite rustic with abundant tannins … really need time to unfold. Love the weight and minerality … but it is a very muscular wine currently. A big but classic Clos de la Roche … old school Hubert Lignier at it’s best .
The Morey Les Blanchards 2011 from Domaine Dublere is a very juicy glass of pinot. In the nose red and dark berry fruit – notes of red and dark cherries, pomegranate with a slight hint of blueberries and supported by a nice earthy minerality. On the palate ample fruit – cool and pure – structured by fine ripe tannins and a very nice acidity. Lovely drinkability and balance .. a very beautiful wine.
The Morey-Saint-Denis 1er cru VV 2002 from Hubert Lignier – is quite open and showing some matured notes. In the bouquet delicate and open red fruit with notes of cherries and elderberries – quite floral with hints of peony rose and a earthy minerality. On the palate quite elegant red fruit – surprisingly accessible for a Lignier wine at this stage. Really like the quite refined expression of Morey terroir – is perhaps slightly on the light side compared to earlier vintages of this wine. Nevertheless a lovely glass – will improve over the next 5 years – Enjoy!.
Th Clos des Lambrays 2002 is showing beautifully and entering a matured stage. The nose is filled with refined red fruit … wild berries – spiced with very delicate notes of sous-bois. On the palate medium bodied with a lovely cool and airy fruit – transparent and very harmonious. The acidity is crisp and adding a lovely nerve and vibrancy to the wine. Love the delicacy and refinement but it’s perhaps slightly on the light side for a 02 grand cru – nevertheless a gorgeous glass of pinot.
The Morey Saint Denis Clos de la Bussiere 2010 from Roumier is really showing it’s potential. Lovely transparent nose with raspberries, cherries and blueberries spiced by a lovely earthy minerality. On platate very fine intense fruit … transparent .. cool and balanced – so typical for the 2010 vintage. It’s more dense and muscular than the Mugnier Marechale 2010 .. but perhaps lacking a bit of it’s airyness in the fruit. One of the best Bussieres I have tasted … lovely and showing much better than 6 month ago. Will require at least 10 – 15 years of cellaring before it reach it’s peak
The Morey-Saint-Denis Les Blanchards 2010 from Domaine Dublere is a lovely wine – but not performing 100% on this occation. In the bouquet red berry fruit – with notes of forest strawberries and raspberries – a disturbing hint of ruhbarb compote – and spiced with a quite playfull minerality. On the palate very juicy and vibrant fruit with fine intensity. It’s nicely focused with a lovely acidity and a good grip from the finely grained tannins. The transparancy is fine with a lovely presentation of the charming quite terroir. Slightly closed and not quite showing all it’s qualities on this occation – but nevertheless a very lovely glass of pinot.
The Morey-Saint-Denis Les Blanchards 2009 from Domaine Dublere is a lovely effort for the vintage. In 2009 Blair used 50% whole cluster for this wine, to match and structure the very rich fruit in this vintage. The bouquet is offering pure quite delicate fruit – sweet with a candied note – lovely quite cool aromas of cherries and strawberries. On the palate rich and quite lush fruit, well focused by the tannins and a fine acidity for the vintage. It’s a impressive effort for the vintage – very drinkable and quite cool in the fruit.
The Morey-Saint-Denis Les Blanchards 2008 from Domaine Dublere is a very juicy and transparent wine. In the bouquet crisp red berry fruit with notes of red cherries and raspberries – spiced with a lovely energetic minerality. On the palate very crisp and vibrant fruit with a fine backbone of acidity and minerality. It’s a very transparent and acidity driven wine, with limited amounts of tannins. A very interesting wine with food, as the acidity driven style really open up for some interesting combinations with rich food like seared foie gras. A lovely juicy and vibrant pinot.
The Clos de la Roche 2000 from Domine Ponsot is a lovely fully mature wine. The bouquet is open and expressive with red berry fruit and sous-bois – notes of orange and truffles. On the palate mature red fruit – quite rich and transparent for the vintage. It offer a fine complexity and a good display of terroir – but is fading slightly after some time in the glass. A typical 2000 – very harmonious but lacking a bit of focus, depth and energy. Drink now – before the slightly oxidative note in the finish get more pronounced. A lovely glass of mature pinot.
The Morey-Saint-Denis Les Blanchards 2010 from Domaine Dublere is a true beauty. In the bouquet red berry fruit – with notes of forest strawberries and raspberries – spiced with violets and a lovely playfull minerality. On the palate very juicy and vibrant fruit with very fine intensity on the midpalate. It’s focused with a lovely acidity and a good grip from the fine tannins. The transparancy is outstanding and the presentation of the charming terroir is quite impressive. Tasted after Armand Rousseau Les Cazetiers 2010 – and showed as the better wine on the day. A beautiful and very seductive wine … very impressive.
I have always been ambivalent about Clos de la Bussiere from Roumier – as it lacks the playfull minerality of the Chambolle wines from Roumier. But when it reach full maturity it really delivers pleasure and drinkability. The 2010 edition offers quite cool red and dark fruits in the bouquet, with notes of red and dark cherries, cassis and hints of forest berries. On the palate slightly on lush and dense side for a 2010 … not displaying ultimate transparancy at the moment. Bottom line – it’s robust and quite muscular with finely grained ripe tannins – very harmonious – but lacking a bit of transparancy and refinement. A very good wine … and could even merrit a fine rating when perfectly matured. Need time!
The Morey-Saint-Denis Les Blanchards 2010 from Domaine Dublere is very expressive and showing very well. In the bouquet red berry fruit – with notes of forest strawberries and raspberries – spiced with violets and a lovely playfull minerality. On the palate very juicy and vibrant fruit with very fine intensity on the midpalate. It’s focused with a lovly acidity and a good grip from the fine tannins. The transparancy is outstanding and the presentation of the charming terroir is quite impressive. A beautiful and very seductive wine.