The Clos de la Bussiere 09 from Roumier is a very balanced effort for the vintage – and surprisingly forward. In the nose dark berry fruit – notes of cassis, blueberries, boysenberries and liquorice … intense yet not overtly sweet. On the palate rich and quite dense fruit .. but not too sweet or alcoholic like some other 09s. Will require at least 15 years to unfold completely … but is nevertheless quite accessible for a Roumier wine at this stage.
The Clos du Tart 2004 is approaching maturity. The nose is quite forward with notes of tar, matured red fruit, prune, asparagus and a eathy mineral hint. On the palate quite powerful with layers of matured fruit – a bit rustic and quite developed. A quite lovely and rather complex wine .. slight green note but not disturbingly “ladybuggy”!!. A nice matured wine.
The Morey-Saint-Denis Clos des Rosiers is a village monopole owned and created by Domaine Chantal Remy. The vineyard is located just below Clos des Lambray in the former rose garden of domaine Remy … read the full story about Clos des Rosiers here. The vineyard was planted in 2000 and the vines are still quite young. The bouquet of the 2010 Rosiers is slightly closed with notes red and dark cherries, raspberries and oak .. supported by a nice earthy minerality. On the palate nice quite openly knit fruit … lack a bit of weight and concentration … but have a nice minerality in the quite long finish. A nice effort given the age of the vines … will be fun to follow this vineyard.
There is a lot of focus on Clos des Lambrays these days – after the LVMH deal. The price for Domaine des Lambrays seem to have been around 100 million EUR … and if one can trust the medias then Taupenot-Merme is quite reluctant to sell the 0.04 ha plot they have in Clos des Lambrays – to complete the LVMH monopole on Clos des Lambrays.
As my previous article showed there are also additional plots that perhaps could be considered a part of Clos des Lambrays – see the article. I think its safe to say … we will here more about the Taupenot-Merme plot and the other plots.
There are however also other special plots located on the boarder of Clos des Lambrays … and one of them is the unknown Clos des Rosiers – owned by Domaine Chantal Remy – formerly known as Domaine Louis Remy.
The Domaine des Lambrays have recently been sold to LVMH – and the deal included some very fine vineyards – with the jewel in the crown being the 8.84 ha Clos des Lambrays.
This deal is very important for the development in Burgundy as it announces a new big player on the Burgundy scene – LVMH – a company that already owns several prominent estates in Bordeaux and Champagne. It will be interesting to follow the development – as I’m sure we can expect changes and improvements under the new ownership.
I’m therefore planning to make a small series of articles about Domaine des Lambrays – just to explore the vineyards and the history of the Domaine.
The first article is about Clos des Lambrays – where I have made a few maps that illustrates one of the intriguing facts about the LVMH deal – the missing plot of Clos des Lambrays.
The Clos Saint Denis 2011 from Benjamin Leroux is a quite lightfooted and understated grand cru – but nevertheless a lovely effort. The nose offer a lovely complexity with notes of red and dark cherries, red currant and raspberries infused with a delicate earthy minerality. On the palate layers of airy red fruit with a lovely nerve and energy. It’s not a big and dense wine – but I really like the vibrant core of pure and delicate fruit … a truly fine effort.
Photo by Frederik Kreutzer
Ponsot seem to have nailed the 2011 vintage. The Morey-Saint-Denis Les Alouettes – made from the 1er cru Monts Luisants – is really showing well. The nose is forward offering quite refined notes of red berry fruit, plum, violets and a earthy minerality – quite sweet and ripe. On the palate rich and seductive fruit … very well balanced and pure. Love the midpalate refinement and the delicate balance … a beautiful effort.
Photo by Frederik Kreutzer
The Morey-Saint-Denis Tres Girard 2011 from Cecile Tremblay is a delightful wine. The nose is quite expressive with lovely forward fruit – notes of cherries, raspberries .. hints of plum and slightly toasted oak. On the palate lovely quite openly knit fruit … forward and juicy with a nice weight. It’s offering great pleasure and held it’s ground well served after a Mortet Laveaux Chambertin 1999. This is however not a big terroir wine … but it’s a gorgeous glass of pinot … happy juice!
The Hubert Lignier Morey-Saint-Denis Tres Girard is an old school and somewhat rustic Morey. In the nose red and dark berry fruit .. a bit on the austere side. On the palate quite rustic with plenty of structure and tannins – it’s pure but not very focused. A genuine old fashioned Morey that will require some time to resolve. Sadly not quite at the same level as the Hubert Lignier wines of the 1990s and early 2000s … but nevertheless a honest glass of Morey.
Photo by Frederik Kreutzer
The Clos de la Roche 2011 from Ponsot is a very intense and special wine. In the nose delicate sweet almost perfumed ripe fruit with notes of forest strawberries, raspberries, liqueur … spiced with violets and a deep but discrete earthy minerality. The fruit in the nose is airy and delicate with no restraints from new oak. On the palate very ripe airy fruit …. outstanding midpalate weight and concentration …. culminating in a very balanced long finish with a very fine focusing acidity. The layers of ripe fruit infuse aromas of red berry fruit, prune and plum. A big and very special wine … with a unique balance between the rich, ripe and airy fruit and the framwork of intense minrality and crisp acidity. The sweet and ripe midpalate is currently a bit over the top for me …. nevertheless an outstanding wine.
Photo by Frederik Kreutzer
The Clos de la Bussiere 2011 from Roumier is showing very well. In the nose crisp and quite delicate red and dark berry fruit, with a earthy minerality, a slight floral tone and a initial touch of oak. On the palate focused, crisp and harmanious – the tannins are finely grained and refined and offer fine support. It’s a very elegant and delicate Bussiere … but still a quite substantial wine with very good weight and power. Very impressive for the vintage.
The Morey Clos Solon 2011 from Domaine Fourrier is a pretty little wine. The nose is offering fresh and pure red berry fruit, with notes of red and darker cherries. The palate offer quite delicate fruit – it’s rather light but balanced, crisp and harmonious with a nice length. Not a big wine … but nevertheless quite lovely and enjoyable.
The Clos de la Roche 1999 from Dujac is a gorgeous wine … and is showing fine form. The nose is expressive with crisp and quite floral red berry fruit supported by a lovely earthy minerality. On the palate delightful and vibrant red fruit … lovely energy and balance. This wine is more forward and floral than a bottle tasted a year ago … but is somehow also missing a bit of weight compared to the previous bottle. It’s nevertheless a both impressive and very delightful wine …. quite adorable for a 1999.
I really love Ponsot wines when they are open and accessible … sadly it’s somehow difficult to find the drinking window on the Ponsot wines. Quite a lot of 1999 reds are starting to show beautifully – but this is not the case with Clos de la Roche from Ponsot. The nose is quite dark and slightly introvert with raspberries, plum, tar, dark cherries and some exotic asian spices … curry! On the palate it’s quite dense and intense, but not very powerful for the vintage. It needs 5 to 10 years more in the cellar to unfold. A very fine glass of pinot … but at the moment its lacking the Ponsot magic. Drink the 2000 and keep the 2002 and the 1999 in the cellar.
The Morey-Saint-Denis Blanchards 1er cru is another of my favorite wines from Domaine Dublere. In the bouquet complex and transparent layers of red fruits with notes of pomegranate, strawberries and raspberries – spiced with a earthy minerality. On the palate a silky but juicy fruit with layers of pure red pinot aromas – focused and quite refined for this appellation. It’s not a great mineralic terroir but it offers a gorgeous drinkability with it’s lovely fruit and crisp acidity. Get plenty … they seem to vanish from the cellar.
The Clos de la Roche 1999 from Hubert Lignier is still very youthful and a real powerhouse. In the bouquet intense dark fruits, cherries, liquorice, oriental spices and a hint of sous-bois. On the palate quite dense and dark fruit, it’s rich but also quite rustic with abundant tannins … really need time to unfold. Love the weight and minerality … but it is a very muscular wine currently. A big but classic Clos de la Roche … old school Hubert Lignier at it’s best .
The Morey Les Blanchards 2011 from Domaine Dublere is a very juicy glass of pinot. In the nose red and dark berry fruit – notes of red and dark cherries, pomegranate with a slight hint of blueberries and supported by a nice earthy minerality. On the palate ample fruit – cool and pure – structured by fine ripe tannins and a very nice acidity. Lovely drinkability and balance .. a very beautiful wine.
The Morey-Saint-Denis 1er cru VV 2002 from Hubert Lignier – is quite open and showing some matured notes. In the bouquet delicate and open red fruit with notes of cherries and elderberries – quite floral with hints of peony rose and a earthy minerality. On the palate quite elegant red fruit – surprisingly accessible for a Lignier wine at this stage. Really like the quite refined expression of Morey terroir – is perhaps slightly on the light side compared to earlier vintages of this wine. Nevertheless a lovely glass – will improve over the next 5 years – Enjoy!.
Th Clos des Lambrays 2002 is showing beautifully and entering a matured stage. The nose is filled with refined red fruit … wild berries – spiced with very delicate notes of sous-bois. On the palate medium bodied with a lovely cool and airy fruit – transparent and very harmonious. The acidity is crisp and adding a lovely nerve and vibrancy to the wine. Love the delicacy and refinement but it’s perhaps slightly on the light side for a 02 grand cru – nevertheless a gorgeous glass of pinot.
The Morey Saint Denis Clos de la Bussiere 2010 from Roumier is really showing it’s potential. Lovely transparent nose with raspberries, cherries and blueberries spiced by a lovely earthy minerality. On platate very fine intense fruit … transparent .. cool and balanced – so typical for the 2010 vintage. It’s more dense and muscular than the Mugnier Marechale 2010 .. but perhaps lacking a bit of it’s airyness in the fruit. One of the best Bussieres I have tasted … lovely and showing much better than 6 month ago. Will require at least 10 – 15 years of cellaring before it reach it’s peak