Terroir Insight: Domaine de Montille Malconsorts Cuvee Christiane

One rarely see a producer in Burgundy making two different wines from the same vineyard, unless it’s a declassification of young and younger wines.

Etienne de Montille has however decided to make two cuvees from Vosne-Romanee Aux-Malconsorts – one regular cuvee made from two plots inside Malconsorts and a special cuvee made from a 0.4765 ha plot located on the southeastern corner of La Tâche Joly de Bévy – he has named this cuvee after his mother Chistiane .. so it must be something special .. and it is in my view.


So lets go walkabout in the La Tâche outskirts.

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Domaine de la Romanee-Conti, La Tâche 2011

The La Tâche 2011 from Domaine de la Romanee-Conti is a magnificent wine .. and quite a step up from the otherwise outstanding Richebourg from DRC. The bouquet is slightly closed compared to the more flamboyant Richebourg 2011 – but still bursting with layered red and dark fruits, Vosne spices and a tremendous minerality. The palate offer layers of intense and complex fruit .. clearly more depth and weight in the midpalate fruit than the Richebourg. It’s long, superbly balanced, delightful … quite mind-blowing quality in a vintage like 2011.

20120309-125513.jpg(Drink From 2035) – Outstanding+ – (97p) – Tasted 24/09/2014


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Domaine Meo-Camuzet, Richebourg 2006

The Richebourg 2006 from Meo-Camuzet is a big and expressive wine. The nose offer rich red and dark berry fruit spiced with sous-bois, tar, mint, game and violets. On the palate rich and quite opulent, with a focusing core of minerality and tannins. It’s long, rich and openly knit … with a delightful airy fruit infused with a intense minerality. Is showing surprising well … would have expected a more backward wine at this stage. Nevertheless need 10 years more to unfold full complexity.

20120309-125513.jpg(Drink From 2023) – Very Fine – (94p) – Tasted 24/09/2014


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Domaine Anne Gros, Richebourg 1995

The Richebourg 1995 from Anne Gros is quite a powerhouse .. and age 20 only just starting to show matured notes. The nose is crammed with darkberry fruit .. cassis, dark cherries, sous-bois and oriental spices. On the palate intense and weighty fruit – earthy and tightly knit with quite a lot of grip. The fruit is pure and intense … but perhaps lacking a tad of transparancy to match the big boys. Very balanced .. but need time to unfold. A very impressive Richebourg … would perhaps have prefered it ever so slightly less extracted … nevertheless a treat.

20120309-125513.jpg(Drink From 2020) – Very Fine – (94p) – Tasted 20/09/2014


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Domaine de la Romanee-Conti, Richebourg 2011

The Richebourg 2011 from Domaine de la Romanee-Conti is fulfilling the promise it showed from cask – its an expressive firework of Vosne spices and minerality. The bouquet is still very extrovert with refined cool red and black fruits – bursting with Vosne spices, minerality and currently a sligthly flamboyant hint of toasted oak. The palate offer powerful and energetic juicy fruit – focused by a framework of quite vibrant acidity and a almost mind-blowing display of minerality. The finish is long and very persistent – expressive is in this case an understatement. A magnificent effort for the vintage .. love the energy and extrovert exuberantness.

20120309-125513.jpg(Drink From 2030) – Outstanding – (96p) – Tasted 24/09/2014


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Domaine Dujac, Vosne-Romanee Les Beaux Monts 2009

The Vosne-Romanee Les Beaux Monts 2009 from Dujac is a very intense effort. In the nose dark berry fruit  … blueberries, raspberries and boysenberris … quite detailed with pure fruit aromas and some nice Vosne spices. On the palate … intense aromas … fruit driven and quite powerful .. but not big and dense. The acidity is fine for the vintage … a well balanced effort but need time to unfold.

20120309-125513.jpg(Drink from 2025) – Very Good+ – (91p) – Tasted 09/09/2014


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Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair, Vosne Clos du Chateau 2008

The Vosne-Romanee Clos du Chateau 2008 from Liger-Belair is showing extrovert youthful charm. The nose is rich and expressive with notes of red and dark fruits spiced with cinnamon, gun powder and a notch of oak. On the palate intensely weighty for the level and vintage … quite openly knit but with a lovely focusing minerality. Love the cool transparent fruit and the expression of terroir. A very good Vosne village … but not quite as refined as the recent vintages of this wine.

20120309-125513.jpg(Drink from 2020) – Very Good+ – (90p) – Tasted 12/09/2014


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Cros Parantoux – the sweet spot of Richebourg

Vosne-Romanee Cros Parantoux is a mythical vineyard … with a reputation created by the legendary Henri Jayer. With a location just above and next to Richebourg this 1er cru is regarded as something very special.


But the story of Cros Parantoux doesn’t start with Henri Jayer, the vineyard was known much earlier. So lets take a closer look at Cros Parantoux.

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Philippe Pacalet, Vosne Romanee, Les Chaumes 2013

The Vosne-Romanee Les Chaumes is quite new in the Pacalet collection – and is made from a plot located in the top part of the vineyard – just below La Tache/Malconsort. The bouquet offer complex layers of red and dark berry fruit – spiced with violets, pepper and allspice. The palate is crammed with layers of juicy fruit and a playful quite intense minerality. A more introvert and dark wine than the Laveaux – but the elements are there to rival the more forward and charming Gevrey.

20120309-125513.jpg(Drink from 2025) – Fine – (91 – 92p) – Tasted 19/03/2013 from CASK

Photo: Johan Cola from Maison Philippe Pacalet

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Domaine Forey Père et Fils, Vosne-Romanee 2012

The Vosne Romanee Village 2012 from Regis Forey is a very nice effort. The nose is offering pure red and dark berry fruit … nice Vosne spicyness and a quite earthy minerality … coming from vineyards located around Clos de Vougeot. On the palate quite rich and velvet for this level … good weight. The finish is quite persistant with a slight dryness of tannins in the finish. Need time to unfold – perhaps slightly closed due to recent bottling – but the vintage with its abundant fruit really suits this wine.

20120309-125513.jpg(Drink from 2020) – Good+ – (87 – 88 p) – Tasted 18/03/2014.

Photo: Regis Forey at Grand Jours de Bourgogne

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Domaine Forey Père et Fils, Vosne Les Gaudichots 2012

The Vosne Romanee Les Gaudichots 2012 from Regis Forey is a serious wine for the vintage. Made from very old wines – planted in 1930 – on the vineyard located just next to and above the mighty La Tache. The bouquet display layers of deep red fruit and a powerful minerality with intense Vosne spices – notes of peony rose and violets. On the palate layers of rich relatively dark pinot fruit – pure and with fine depth and quite ample tannins for a 2012. The mineralic backbone of this wine is impressive – and the finish is very focused and persistent. Slightly closed due to recent bottling.

20120309-125513.jpg(Drink from 2023) – Very Fine – (93p) – Tasted 18/03/2014.

Photo: Regis Forey at Grand Jours de Bourgogne

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Domaine Robert Sirugue, Vosne-Romanee 2012

The Vosne-Romanee 2012 is a quite delicate and honest village . The bouquet is offering pure juicy red fruit … with a quite lovely Vosne minerality. On the palate good midpalate fruit … forward and pure. It is a step in the right direction from the 2011 … but is in my view still lacking a bit of weight and concentration to match the big boys and girls. Nevertheless … its very enjoyable with a good expression of terroir – whats not to like!

20120309-125513.jpg(Drink from 2023) – Good+ (87 – 88p) – Tasted 18/03/2014.


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Domaine Robert Sirugue, Vosne-Romanee Les Petits Monts 2012

The Vosne-Romanee Les Petits-Monts 2012 from Sirugue represent another step up in quality for Domaine Sirugue. The bouquet is offering pure juicy red fruit … intense with lovely Vosne minerality and spices – notes of violets, peony rose and a hint of oak. On the palate layers of rich fruit – medium weight – focused by a lovely minerality. A very charming effort with a lovely expression of Vosne terroir – a delightful 1er cru.

20120309-125513.jpg(Drink from 2023) – Fine+ (91 – 92p) – Tasted 18/03/2014.


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La Tâche – a historic view on a legendary grand cru

La Tâche is a legendary grand cru with a quite interesting history. It has always been a monopole – but nevertheless the monopole status have been challenged and the vineyard expanded quite dramatically within the last 100 years.


The history of La Tâche involves some of the most prominent domaines in Vosne, the neighburing Les Gaudichots and last but not least a great terroir and some gorgeous wines.

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Philippe Pacalet, Vosne-Romanee 2013

The Vosne-Romanee village is a notch up in quality. The bouquet is slightly reduced but crammed with layers of red and dark berry fruit – notes of raspberries and cassis – discretely spiced with violets, cinnamon and white peppar.The fruit is somewhat more compact than the ofther village wines, and show additional depth, focus and nuances – impressive for this level. A lovely intense village with a nice terroir expression.

20120309-125513.jpg(Drink from 2023) – Very Good+ – (88 – 90p) – Tasted 19/03/2014 from CASK

Photo: Johan Cola from Maison Philippe Pacalet

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Bruno Clavelier, Vosne Romanee Les Beaux Monts 2011

The Vosne Les Beaux Monts is quite accessible for a young Clavelier. The nose is offering a intense and Vosne spicy expression of red berry fruit with hints of violets and liqourice and the classic Clavelier elderberries. On the palate quite intense and balanced with a good midpalate concentration of juicy pinot fruit. The minerality is refined and focused – providing a solid framework for the fruit. Clavelier have made some lovely 2011s.

20120309-125513.jpg(Drink from 2023) – Fine – (91p) – Tasted 29/06/2014


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Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair, Vosne La Colombiere 2012

The 2012s from Liger-Belair looks like they will live up to the great promise they showed from cask … and then some. La Colombiere 2012 is currently showing layers of juicy red fruit – notes of  sweet cherries, raspberries and strawberries – spiced with violets, gooseberries, asian spices and a discrete well integrated touch of oak. On the palate rich and velvet for this level … layers of silky fruit, focused by a nice crisp acidity and a fine underlying minerality. The fruit is organic, free and airy- impressive length. A gorgeous Vosne village in the making .. La Colombiere improves each year and this is perhaps the finest effort so far … rivaling the magnificent 2010.

20120309-125513.jpg(Drink from 2023) – Fine – (91p) – Tasted 28/07/2014


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Domaine Francois Lamarche, Vosne Les Chaumes 2010

The 2010 Vosne-Romanee Les Chaumes from Lamarche is a quite nice effort. The nose is offering a lovely selection of red and dark berry aromas … spiced with a suitable level of oak and a discrete minerality. On the palate pure and quite transparent rather dark fruit. Its well balanced and structured … I do however feel a slight lack of midpalate fruit and weight. Nevertheless … one of the most impressive wines I have tasted from Lamarche given the terroir.

20120309-125513.jpg(Drink From 2022) – Very Good (88p) – Tasted 10/07/2014


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Sylvain Cathiard, Vosne Aux Malconsorts 2011

The Malconsorts 2011 from Cathiard is a magnificent wine for the vintage. The nose is crammed with expressive red and darkberry fruit – notes of dark cherries, plum and red currant – spiced with violets and a touch of oak. On the palate rich openly knit fruit … airy with a lovely midpalate weight. It’s beautifully balanced and focused by the fine minerality and quite energetic acidity. Adorable and gorgeous … what a lovely wine.

20120309-125513.jpg(Drink From 2027) – very Fine+ – (93 – 94p) – Tasted 03/07/2014

Photo: Sebastian Cathiard at Grands Jours de Bourgogne

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Domaine de Montille, Vosne Aux Malconsorts – Christiane 2008

The Vosne Malconsorts cuvee Christiane from de Montille is a refined and delicate wine. The nose is quite expressive with notes of red fruit, spiced with notes of rose petals, soy, asian spices and a filigree earthy minerality. On the palate medium weight with layers of red fruit … its not a big and dense wine … but has a refined persistence and intensity. The acidity is crisp adding a fine energy to the organic fruit. Need time to unfold but is not a wine for 20 years of cellaring. A delicate almost fragile Vosne Malconsorts.

20120309-125513.jpg(Drink from 2018) – Fine+ – (92 – 93p) – Tasted 03/07/2014


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