The 2003 Meursault Clos des Ambres is a impressive effort for the vintage. It’s made from the village terroir En l’Ormeau – old vines with a average age of more than 50 years. The nose is offering rich fruit with different orchard fruits, on the sweeter side, and with a nice playful minerality. On the palate rich and on the slightly dense side, but with a quite playful minerality and a nice acidity for the vintage. Not a big fan of the 2003 whites but this is a very nice wine. Better than the 02 version of this wine!!!!
The 2002 Meursault Clos des Ambres is slightly introvert and reserved. It’s made from the village terroir En l’Ormeau – old vines with a average age of more than 50 years. The nose is offering notes of apple, gunpowder … slightly backward and austere. On the palate very focused with a quite powerful acidity for the vintage – it’s tight and slightly lean. Is not really in decline … but think it had more charm and nerve three years ago.
The Meursault Clos des Ambres 2007 from Arnaud Ente is a quite intense and interesting village. In the nose a fine display of pure orchard fruits … melon, pear, slightly roasted hazelnuts, citrus – with a delicate minerality vibrating in the background. On the palate medium fruit intensity … focused and with a delicate nervy acidity. The finish is long and impressive for this level with a fine citrus infused minerality. Very vibrant and filigree for the vintage – I’m impressed and delighted.
The La Seve du Clos from Arnaud Ente is a special wine made from a plot of very old vines on the village vineyard En L’Ormeau Clos, located just below the town center of Meursault. The 2004 edition of this wine is a fine combination of a good village terroir and a deep ripe and complex fruit of a good 1er cru. In the bouquet some mature notes, ripe yellow fruit, a hint of anise and fennel. On the palate very good acidity, layers of ripe chardonnay fruit. Very well balanced with loads of fruit matched by the excellent 2004 acidity. The complexity of the terroir is not matching the good 1er crus, but the fruit from the old wines add other dimensions to the wine. A fine effort from Ente and a true pleasure.
(Drink from 2017) Fine – 92p
Arnaud Ente Meursault 2001, a really delightful Meursault. Beautiful fresh acidity structure with a certain oak note, a very good Meusault for the vintage. No hint of premox. A very good effort from Ente. (2012 – 2018) – 89p
Tasting and rating wine is not exact science … and therefore I prefer to use a scale that reflects that wine is a living organism and that a wine can taste like 94 points one day … and 93 the next day … depending on the moon, the glass, temperature and or my mood!
I therefore use my own rating system here at Winehog.org – a rating system inspired by some of the British wine reviewers but adapted to my view on the Burgundy wines.
The end of points
I have been using the 100 point scale for two decades, and the problems using this scale became more and more apparent during the work with winehog.org. It’s very hard .. or perhaps even impossible to truly consistent ratings with a scale like the 100 points scale.
I therefore changed to my own scale … but still translates my ratings to points … as a service to the readers who prefer the 100 point scale.
The potential is defined by the terroir
The quality or the potential of a wine is in my view defined by the terroir as the complexity and depth in the wine comes from the terroir – that’s the essence of Burgundy – and that’s why Burgundy is so interesting, intriguing and sometimes even frustrating.
It’s very important to note that only the very best terroirs can merrit a top rating. If we look at the best 1er crus – they can indeed rival a lot of the lesser grand cru wines, but it’s very rare to find a 1er cru that can merrit an outstanding rating. And while the best village wines can be fine, they are still village wines – and can almost never merrit a “very fine” rating.
Here is the winehog.org rating system:
- Very Fine
- Very Good
- Above Average
- Below Average
The winehog rating system – converted to points
As mentioned I have indeed used the 100 point scale for many years, and to me it feels natural but sadly also somewhat limiting for work. But as a service to the readers I normally convert the winehog rating to points or a point interval for the readers who prefer this system.
Winehog rating system with the point equivalence:
- Legendary – (99 – 100p)
- Extraordinary – (97 – 98p)
- Outstanding – (95 – 96p)
- Very Fine – (93 – 94p)
- Fine – (91 – 92p)
- Very Good – (88 – 90p)
- Good – (85 – 87p)
- Above Average – (80 – 84p)
- Average – (75 – 79p)
- Below Average – (70 – 74p)
- Poor – (50 – 69p)
… enjoy the wines … and forget the points and ratings!