The Vosne-Romanee Clos du Chateau 2008 from Liger-Belair is showing extrovert youthful charm. The nose is rich and expressive with notes of red and dark fruits spiced with cinnamon, gun powder and a notch of oak. On the palate intensely weighty for the level and vintage … quite openly knit but with a lovely focusing minerality. Love the cool transparent fruit and the expression of terroir. A very good Vosne village … but not quite as refined as the recent vintages of this wine.
Louis-Michel Liger-Belair is in my view producing one of the very best wines from the large and very diverse Echezeaux vineyard.
First vintage was 2006 and quality improving year after year arriving at a truly outstanding level from 2010 and onwards.
A very interesting wine in many ways … so lets take a closer look at the terroir.
La Tâche is a legendary grand cru with a quite interesting history. It has always been a monopole – but nevertheless the monopole status have been challenged and the vineyard expanded quite dramatically within the last 100 years.
The history of La Tâche involves some of the most prominent domaines in Vosne, the neighburing Les Gaudichots and last but not least a great terroir and some gorgeous wines.
The 2012s from Liger-Belair looks like they will live up to the great promise they showed from cask … and then some. La Colombiere 2012 is currently showing layers of juicy red fruit – notes of sweet cherries, raspberries and strawberries – spiced with violets, gooseberries, asian spices and a discrete well integrated touch of oak. On the palate rich and velvet for this level … layers of silky fruit, focused by a nice crisp acidity and a fine underlying minerality. The fruit is organic, free and airy- impressive length. A gorgeous Vosne village in the making .. La Colombiere improves each year and this is perhaps the finest effort so far … rivaling the magnificent 2010.
I was very impressed and delighted when I tasted the 2012 reds from cask, and recent tastings of the first 2012s from bottle more than confirm the very positive first impressions.
The Vosne Romanee La Colombiere from Comte Liger-Belair is showing very well. The nose is displaying lovely red and dark berry fruit – spiced with cinnamon, allspice and a touch of well integrated oak. On the palate quite organic but focused fruit – lovely balance and weight for this level. Love the juicy expression of fruit and the discrete impression of oak.
La Romanee 2012 is slightly closed compared to the initial cask samples – but still a gorgeous and very intense wine. In the bouquet layers of juicy fruit – notes of raspberries, cherries, violets and peony rose – accentuated and infused by a very refined and powerful minerality. On the palate layers of juicy, rich and intense red fruit. The fruit is vibrant and airy with a lot of energy – supported by ample ripe tannins and by the multidimensional minerality of this great terroir. The finish is very long and persistant with a fantastic display of minerality. Its a intense wine but still effortlessly refined and delicate. An extraordinary and gorgeous wine in the making.
The 2008 Clos du Chateau from Liger-Belair is open and really rocking with loads of youthful energy. In the bouquet transparent and crisp red fruit with hints of graphe, peony rose, cinnamon and a touch of oak. On the palate acidity driven red fruit … crisp and lightfooted … focused by a acidity infused Vosne minerality. Loads of energy here – with the oak well integrated. Really love the transparency and the crystal clear fruit …. refined but still quite a beast with its dramatic vibrant acidity. Not a wine for the average wine solicitor fan.
The 2011 Columbiere is quite forward offering a lovely fruity bouquet with red and dark berry fruit. It’s showing a nice complexity with Vosne spices and a nice minerality followed by a quite discrete impression of oak. On the palate lovely fruit – quite expressive and airy – nicely focused by the minerality and the new oak. Quite rich for the level but with a nice transparancy and a crisp acidity in the finish. A beautifully balanced Vosne village.
The 2011 Echezaux from Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair is a gorgeous wine in the making. In the nose quite abundant red berry fruit – raspberries and pomegranate – spiced with violets, peony rose, all spice and a touch of oak. On the palate rich, intense and silky – with a delicate almost opulent fruit – focused by a quite powerful framework of acidity and minerality. A outstanding effort for the vintage … what a gorgeous Echezeaux.
The 2007 Echezaux is really starting to show the finesse and refinement. The nose is bursting with intense red berry fruit and a delicate fragrance of Vosne spices – with notes of peony rose, violets and all spice. On the palate gorgeous quite linear fruit with a lovely mineral complexity in the finish. It’s medium weight, focused but quite silky … with a very fine tension and energy in the vibrant finish. The oak is perfectly integrated and the complexity is really starting to unfold. When I tasted this wine for the first time back in 2009 … my initial thought was Jayer – I found the same effortless charm and refinement in this bottle … a gorgeous bottle on a fruit day.
The Vosne-Romanee Clos du Chateau 2002 from Liger-Belair has entered a matured stage. The nose is crammed with redberry fruit spiced with notes of gooseberries, peony rose, all spice and a touch of oak. On the palate lovely pure and quite airy fruit – quite long with a nice mineral infused finish. It’s not fully mature … but on the approach and is offering great drinkability. A lovely Vosne village – very good – but nevertheless show how much Louis-Michel have improved quality since these first vintages.
The 2007 Clos du Chateau from Liger-Belair is a very good and quite typical for the vintage. In the bouquet spicy red and dark berry fruit – notes of raspberries, cherries and cinnamon – still with quite a impression of oak. On the palate sweet and slightly candied fruit, intense this level with a quite fresh and spicy acidity. It’s focused with a lovely minerality for a village. A very good effort – still need some time to unfold – but it’s not a wine for decades of cellaring.
La Romanee 2012 is gorgeous and very intense wine. In the bouquet layers of very intense fruit – notes of strawberries, cherries, violets and peony rose – brought forward by a very refined and powerful minerality. On the palate layers of juicy, rich and intense fruit – truly lovely inner energy in the fruit. The fruit is balanced by and brought forward by the fantastic vibrant and multidimensional minerality of this great terroir. The intensity of this wine is at another level than most other Grand Crus, but still it’s refined, elegant, balanced and even delicate. A truly extraordinary wine in the making.
The Echezeaux is getting better and better year after year. The terroir is very fine with old vines in very good plots on the climates Cruots and Champs Traversin. The nose is slightly reduced at the moment, but showing layers of juicy fruit and minerality – notes of cherries, strawberries, violets and peppar. On the palate layers intense and energetic fruit – supported by a multidimensional finely grained minerality. This quite floral wine is wonderfully balanced – powerful and yet very refined. A magnificent effort with true finesse and length – a great Echezeaux in the making.
The Aux Reignots is gorgeous in 2012 – as the rich fruit is a perfect match for this very mineralic terroir – the 2012 vintage really adds new dimensions to the Aux Reignot. In the bouquet very refined with juicy red fruit – strawberries, pomegranate and forrest berries – combined with smoky and salty notes from the wonderfully stony minerality. On the palate layers of energetic and rich fruit, very fine balance and structure from the strong mineralic backbone. A very charming and rich Aux Reignot – Very Fine and perhaps even Outstanding.
The Nuits Saint Georges Les Cras is a slightly overlooked wine in the Liger-Belair portfolio. Les Cras 2012 is a lovely effort – with loads of pure and energetic fruit. The bouquet is showing beautiful red and darker fruit aromas spiced with gun powder and a salty minerality – lovely tension between the sweet red fruit and the dark berries. On the palate very juicy and focused with a delightful vibrant underlying minerality. It’s focused and with a extrovert and charming personality – a lovely wine in the making.
The Vosne Les Petit Monts is always a very charming wine – and the 2012 is certainly no exception. In the floral bouquet – loads of refined sweet fruit with notes of forest berries, pomegranate, allspice and peony rose. On the palate lovely lush fruit – balanced by the refined minarality and a fresh acidity – very fine energy and nerve. I adore the expression of this wine … it’s sexy and charming with a lightfooted and refined complexity.
First vintage of the The Nuits Saint Georges Clos des Grandes Vignes – and it’s a good start. The Clos des Grandes Vignes 2012 is a very refined and harmonious effort. In the bouquet rich red berry fruit with a floral touch, a hint of gun powder and a nice earthy minerality. On the palate rich and refined red and dark fruit – nicely focused by the harmonious earthy minerality and the energetic acidity. It’s a very harmonious and refined wine with a lovely inner energy – will be very exiting to follow this wine.
The Brulees is a very rare wine to taste. Liger-Belair only makes one cask from the 0,1157ha and the wine is not sold on the market – sadly. Les Brulees is slightly reduced at the moment but the quite floral nose is nevertheless showing very fine complex red fruit, spicy notes with a gorgeous hint of peony rose. On the palate it offers a wonderful tension between the rich fruit and the powerful minerality – intense but still quite lightfooted. It’s tightly knit with a lovely balance and nerve – a delightful wine.