Second round of the Burgundy stemware battle between Riedel Vinum, Pinot Noir and the challenger Zalto Burgundy
25/1/2014 – 20:30 CET – Flower Day
Wine: Domaine Camus, Mazoyeres Chambertin 1978
Riedel Vinum, Pinot Noir … expressive nose, rich slightly fragile – with a nice red berry fruit infused with notes of orange/orange zest and a lovely earthy impression of sous-bois.
Zalto Burgundy… more details from the Zalto’s – but the coherence in the bouquet is somehow lost. An element of caramel is introduced and the fruit notes toned down compared to the Riedels.
Riedel Vinum, Pinot Noir… a fully mature wine … light/medium body with a certain rich feel on the midpalate. It’s harmonious with the sweet orange infused fruit as the dominant element .. the finish has good weight and a fresh kick from the acidity. Quite lovely and delicate balance … slightly fragile … but alive and kicking.
Zalto Burgundy … the Zalto’s put more emphasis on the freshness and the acidity … and the slightly rich and sweet feeling of mature fruit is less pronounced. The fresh kick of acidity in the finish is brought slightly forward.
Again – It’s important to note that the perception of the palate could well be influenced by the bouquet. If the bouquet is different then the sensatory impressions in the bouquet could well be perceived differently.
Round two conclusion
The Mazoyeres 1978 from Camus is a fragile old girl … and while it’s alive and vibrant, it can’t really cope with the scrutiny of the Zalto’s. The more forgiving and rich expression of the Riedel really suits and supports this wine.
This tasting also included other old Burgs .. and I tried two more in both the Riedels and the Zalto’s – the Lionel Bruck, Les Amoureuses 1978 (negociant) and the Gros Frere et Soeur Clos de Vougeot 1974.
The conclusion is more or less the same with these two wines … the Amoureuses 78 – a small and fragile wine – held up nicely in the Riedels but fell apart in the Zalto’s. With the Gros Frere Clos de Vougeot 1974 it was a more even battle … the Zalto’s added some energy and vibrancy while the Riedels supported the rich side of the wine … a tie on this wine perhaps.
Bottom line – While I like the analytical qualities of the Zalto’s they are not ideal with fragile old wines – i.e. lesser wines that are fully mature or past their peak. The Riedels offer support to these wines – the Zalto’s don’t!
So round 2 goes to the Riedels … with this note … if we are talking great old Burgs from top producers in good vintages … I presume the Zalto’s more analytical style could prevail.
Riedel – Zalto: 1 – 1
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