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Tasting of Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair 2012 from cask

By Steen Öhman September 29, 2013

On my September trip to Burgundy I had he opportunity to taste the 2012s from Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair. I tasted some of the wines already in March 2013 – and they showed great promise – so I was very exited to taste the whole range.

20130929-140512.jpg

Needless to say – I was not disappointed – the 2012s from Liger-Belair are gorgeous, and perhaps even better than expected after the first tasting in March 2013.

Tasting of 2012 from Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair

The overall impressions of the 2012s reds from Liger-Belair are very positive. The wines are rich and fullbodied with vibrant layers of cool intense fruit – a pure, nuanced and complex expression of pinot. The 2012s are transparent and nervy despite the quite intense fruit – the acidity is quite crisp and offer excellent support for the rich fruit.

It’s a quite unique vintage, as the wines are both extrovert and fruity and at the same time very classic – with a delicate balance between the fruit and the very fine transparant display of terroir. Are they better than the 2010s – perhaps not – but they are in my view clearly better than the otherwise very fine 2009s from this domaine.

Improving quality

Louis-Michel Liger-Belair is constantly working to improve quality and to refine the expression of the wines – and have made some changes over the recent years. One is more use of whole clusters in some of the wines, the other is the use of oak.

The Clos du Chateau is one of the signature wines of the domaine – and from the 2010 vintage and onwards the Clos du Chateau is taken from the oak barrels earlier than before – thus reducing and refining the impression of the oak. The 2012 vintage of Clos du Chateau is already on tank – since July 2013 – and the new approach have in my view improved a already great village wine. The fruit is now even more organic and refined, and the expression of terroir is even better than before. The result is in my view stunning – producing one of the very best village wines in Burgundy.

Tasting notes 2012 Liger-Belair

The tasting included the whole range including the two new wines Nuits-Saint-Georges Clos des Grandes Vignes white and red. Louis-Michel uses 100% new oak on all wines except the white, where the share of new oak is around 35%.

Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair, Nuits-St-Georges Clos des Grandes Vignes Blanc 2012

First white from Louis-Michel – from the newly acquired vineyard Clos des Grandes Vignes in the southern Nuits-Saint-Georges. The wines were re-grafted with Chardonney in 2010 – so this is a fairly new vineyard for the whites. Around 35% new oak is used. The bouquet is quite expressive with notes of pear, melon and citrus – the oak is present but delicate and the finely grained minerality is showing well. On the palate crisp and pure fruit, a fine midpalate weight and richness – supported by the fine broad minerality and the crisp acidity. The expression is quite rich, smooth and refined for a Cote de Nuits white – a very interesting and lovely white in the making.

20120311-111932.jpg(Drink from 2020) – Fine (90 – 92p) – Tasted 13/09/2013 from CASK
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Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair, Nuits-Saint-Georges Lavieres 2012

The Nuits-Saint-Georges Lavieres is quite expressive but showing a slight reduction at the moment. In the nose lovely red berry fruit spiced with a nice minerality with traces of new oak. On the palate it offers quite weighty fruit – a very good concentration for this level – it’s very juicy with a good focusing minerality. Better than initially expected – a lovely village in the making.

20120309-125513.jpg(Drink from 2022) – Very Good (88 – 90p) – Tasted 13/09/2013 – from CASK
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Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair, Vosne Romanee 2012

The Vosne Romanee Village offer a lovely spicy nose – red berry fruit, violets white peppar and cinnamon. The palate show lovely juicy fruit – good complexity – fine midpalate concentration for this level. The finish is quite focused with a nice balance from the vibrant 2012 acidity. Love the expression of the 2012 fruit – the purity and transparancy. The generic Vosne village is improving year after year and has taken a big step forward in 2012.

20120309-125513.jpg(Drink from 2022) – Very Good (88 – 90p) – Tasted 13/09/2013 – from CASK
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Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair, Vosne Romanee Colombiere 2012

The Colombiere is a step up from the very good generic village – as it offers a more focused and refined expression of terroir. The nose offers deeper fruit – showing lovely juicy red berries – and it’s popping with Vosne spicyness – violets, peony rose – combined with a nice minerality. The palate is showing juicy vibrant fruit with the support of the fine minerality and a crisp acidity. It’s quite weighty for this level – but still maintain a lovely mineralic tension and nerve. A very beautiful Colombiere in the making.

20120309-125513.jpg(Drink from 2024) – Very Good+ (90 – 91p) – Tasted 13/09/2013 – from CASK
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Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair, Vosne Romanee Clos du Chateau 2012

The Clos du Chateau is another step up – adding even more minerality and Vosne spicyness. The bouquet offering a juicy fruit, crisp minerality and loads of Vosne spices. On the palate excellent weight for this level – the fruit is deep, organic and complex supported by the gorgeous stony minerality of this lovely village terroir. It offers a beautiful nerve and transparancy – a truly fine village from Liger-Belair – love this wine!

20120309-125513.jpg(Drink from 2025) – Fine+ (91 – 92p) – Tasted 13/09/2013 – from CASK
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Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair, Vosne Romanee Les Chaumes 2012

Les Chaumes is surprisingly crisp and energetic in the 2012 vintage – no doubt helped by the 18% whole cluster. The bouquet offer rich confit fruit of red berries – notes of raspberries, forest strawberries drizzled with discrete Vosne spices. On the palate quite weigthy fruit – it’s rich and almost creamy with a beautiful core of red fruit – supported by a lovely acidity. The minerality is there – but not as forward and crisp as in Clos du Chateau – but the expression of fruit is very charming. A lovely rich and pure Chaumes – perhaps the best Chaumes from Liger-Belair so far.

20120309-125513.jpg(Drink from 2024) – Fine (90 – 92p) – Tasted 13/09/2013 – from CASK
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Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair, Vosne Romanee Les Suchots 2012

Les Suchots is perhaps not my favorit wine from Liger-Belair – but the 2012 version is showing a fine potential. In the bouquet a quite delicate collection of red and darker berries – quite floral (15-20% whole cluster) with the oak slightly more present. On the palate very good focus, a deep fruit and a fine balance from the crisp acidity and the quite powerful ripe tannins. The whole clusters have shaped the wine, and the floral spiciness and delicate fruit aromas of the 2012 vintage also suits the terroir. A lovely Suchots in the making.

20120309-125513.jpg(Drink from 2024) – Fine (91 – 93p) – Tasted 13/09/2013 – from CASK
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Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair, Vosne Romanee Les Brulees 2012

The Brulees is a very rare wine to taste. Liger-Belair only makes one cask from the 0,1157ha and the wine is not sold on the market – sadly. Les Brulees is slightly reduced at the moment but the quite floral nose is nevertheless showing very fine complex red fruit, spicy notes with a gorgeous hint of peony rose. On the palate it offers a wonderful tension between the rich fruit and the powerful minerality – intense but still quite lightfooted. It’s tightly knit with a lovely balance and nerve – a delightful wine.

20120309-125513.jpg(Drink from 2025) – Very Fine (93 – 94p) – Tasted 13/09/2013 – from CASK
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Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair, Nuits-St-Georges Clos des Grandes Vignes 2012

First vintage of the The Nuits Saint Georges Clos des Grandes Vignes – and it’s a good start. The Clos des Grandes Vignes 2012 is a very refined and harmonious effort. In the bouquet rich red berry fruit with a floral touch, a hint of gun powder and a nice earthy minerality. On the palate rich and refined red and dark fruit – nicely focused by the harmonious earthy minerality and the energetic acidity. It’s a very harmonious and refined wine with a lovely inner energy – will be very exiting to follow this wine.

20120309-125513.jpg(Drink from 2023) – Fine (91 – 92p) – Tasted 13/09/2013 – from CASK
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Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair, Vosne Romanee Les Petit Monts 2012

The Vosne Les Petit Monts is always a very charming wine – and the 2012 is certainly no exception. In the floral bouquet – loads of refined sweet fruit with notes of forest berries, pomegranate, allspice and peony rose. On the palate lovely lush fruit – balanced by the refined minarality and a fresh acidity – very fine energy and nerve. I adore the expression of this wine … it’s sexy and charming with a lightfooted and refined complexity.

20120309-125513.jpg(Drink from 2025) – Very Fine (93 – 94p) – Tasted 13/09/2013 – from CASK
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Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair, Nuit-Saint-Georges Les Cras 2012

The Nuits Saint Georges Les Cras is a slightly overlooked wine in the Liger-Belair portfolio. Les Cras 2012 is a lovely effort – with loads of pure and energetic fruit. The bouquet is showing beautiful red and darker fruit aromas spiced with gun powder and a salty minerality – lovely tension between the sweet red fruit and the dark berries. On the palate very juicy and focused with a delightful vibrant underlying minerality. It’s focused and with a extrovert and charming personality – a lovely wine in the making.

20120309-125513.jpg(Drink from 2025) – Fine+ (92 – 93p) – Tasted 13/09/2013 – from CASK
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Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair, Vosne Romanee Aux Reignots 2012

The Aux Reignots is gorgeous in 2012 – as the rich fruit is a perfect match for this very mineralic terroir – the 2012 vintage really adds new dimensions to the Aux Reignot. In the bouquet very refined with juicy red fruit – strawberries, pomegranate and forrest berries – combined with smoky and salty notes from the wonderfully stony minerality. On the palate layers of energetic and rich fruit, very fine balance and structure from the strong mineralic backbone. A very charming and rich Aux Reignot – Very Fine and perhaps even Outstanding.

20120309-125513.jpg(Drink from 2027) – Very Fine+ (94 – 95p) – Tasted 13/09/2013 – from CASK
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Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair, Echezeaux 2012

The Echezeaux is getting better and better year after year. The terroir is very fine with old vines in very good plots on the climates Cruots and Champs Traversin. The nose is slightly reduced at the moment, but showing layers of juicy fruit and minerality – notes of cherries, strawberries, violets and peppar. On the palate layers intense and energetic fruit – supported by a multidimensional finely grained minerality. This quite floral wine is wonderfully balanced – powerful and yet very refined. A magnificent effort with true finesse and length – a great Echezeaux in the making.

20120309-125513.jpg(Drink from 2028) – Outstanding (95 – 96p) – Tasted 13/09/2013 – from CASK
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Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair, La Romanee 2012

La Romanee 2012 is gorgeous and very intense wine. In the bouquet layers of very intense fruit – notes of strawberries, cherries, violets and peony rose – brought forward by a very refined and powerful minerality. On the palate layers of juicy, rich and intense fruit – truly lovely inner energy in the fruit. The fruit is balanced by and brought forward by the fantastic vibrant and multidimensional minerality of this great terroir. The intensity of this wine is at another level than most other Grand Crus, but still it’s refined, elegant, balanced and even delicate. A truly extraordinary wine in the making.

20120309-125513.jpg(Drink from 2032) – Extraordinary+ (98 – 99p) – 13/09/2013 – from CASK
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Lastest Tasting Notes for this producer

  • Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair, Vosne Clos du Chateau 2015 December 15, 2017
  • Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair, La Romanee 2010 December 5, 2017
  • Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair, Vosne Clos du Chateau 2011 December 2, 2017
  • Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair, Echezeaux 2011 July 20, 2017
  • Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair, Echezeaux 2010 June 28, 2017
  • Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair, La Romanee 2009 June 21, 2017
  • Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair, Echezeaux 2014 July 7, 2016
  • Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair, NSG Clos des Grandes Vignes 2014 June 25, 2016
  • Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair, La Romanee 2014 June 24, 2016
  • Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair, NSG Clos des Grandes Vignes 2014 March 17, 2016
  • Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair, Vosne Romanee Clos du Chateau 2014 March 17, 2016
  • Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair, NSG Clos des Grandes Vignes Blanc 2014 March 15, 2016
  • Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair, La Romanee 2014 March 14, 2016
  • Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair, Echezeaux 2014 March 14, 2016
  • Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair, Vosne-Romanee Aux Reignots 2014 March 14, 2016
  • Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair, Vosne Romanee Les Petit Monts 2014 March 14, 2016
  • Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair, Nuit-Saint-Georges Les Cras 2014 March 14, 2016
  • Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair, Vosne Romanee Les Suchots 2014 March 14, 2016
  • Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair, Vosne Romanee Colombiere 2014 March 14, 2016
  • Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair, Vosne Romanee 2014 March 14, 2016

All tasting notes for Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair (click here)

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Filed Under: Article, Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair, Tasting, Visit, Visit 2012

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