My March 2017 trip to Burgundy included a lovely visit to Domaine Hudelot-Noellat in Vougeot. I have follow these wines over the years but actually not visited the estate.
Charles Van Canneyt of Domaine Hudelot-Noellat
We were received by Charles Van Canneyt and had the opportunity to taste a few of the 2015s – that were bottled in January 2017.
About the Hudelot-Noellat wines
The Hudelot-Noellat wines have performed well over the years, and the quality has gradually increased under the management of Charles Van Canneyt.
The wines have always been more about refinement and drinkability – rather than power and concentration – and Charles have maintained the style – but increased the quality significantly. The wines are more detailed with a higher level of purity, and this adds to the perception and expression of the terroir.
The wines offer a lot of hedonistic pleasure or should I say they are drinking very well indeed – they are generous and enjoyable, and have a lovely authentic display of Burgundy tradition and terroir. I do like that these wines are not “too polished” and that they do have a link to older vintages style wise. This is no revolution – these are beautiful classic Burgundies offering pure pinot pleasure from the fine portfolio of vineyards of this lovely estate.
The 2015s from Domaine Hudelot-Noellat
I must say my expectations were quite high, as a vintage like 2015 really suits the style of this estate. Let me just say – I was not disappointed – the generous 2015 fruit is a beautiful match for the Hudelot-Noellat style offering even more gratifying and hedonistic wines.
We tasted only a few of the 2015s as they were already in bottle – but I also had the opportunity to taste the Romanée Saint-Vivant 2014 and 2016 from cask …. to offer perspective to the 2015 vintage .. and what better perspective could one find than through a generous cup of RSV? – tremendous treat.
To the notes …. these are for the finished and bottled 2015s.
Tasting notes – Hudelot-Noellat 2015s
The 2015s were tasted from bottle and on a further note they were bottled in January – so already two months in bottle at this stage – i.e. quite ready to taste.
The Vosne-Romanée 2015 village (mainly from Basses Maizieres on the Flagey side of the Vosne appellation) is offering the full generosity of the 2015 vintage. The nose is quite expressive showing red and dark fruits – quite detailed and spiced with a hint of peony and violets. On the palate rich yet focused with a very good mid-palate intensity. Not a village for intellectual indulgence – more so a hedonistic delight offering a very nice expression of Vosne terroir and juicy pinot. Very Good (89 – 90p)
The Petit Vougeot 2015 is another generous example – coming from the premier cru located north of Clos de Vougeot and beneath the Musigny ridge. The nose is quite delicate offering red cherries, pomegranate and a hint of red currant. On the palate rich yet quite elegant and suave. This is a refined effort that will provide excellent mid-term drinking – not very typical for the 2015 as the fruit is airy and quite cool – Fine (91 – 92p) – (Drink from 2025).
Moving on to the Vosne-Romanee Les Suchots – and as said before – this is a brilliant year for Les Suchots – and this is also the case with the Hudelot-Noellat effort. The nose is brimming with layers of juicy red berries – brought forward by a nice intense minerality. Lovely notes of pomegranate, dark cherries and boysen berries. On the palate very juicy and energetic fruit – gorgeous freshness and balance with a tremendous verve and tension. This is a magnificent effort – so far the best 1er cru I have tasted from this estate. Very Fine (93 – 94p) – Drink from 2027.
A Chambolle view from Domaine Hudelot-Noellat
The last and certainly not least of the 2015s – the utterly delightful Romanée Saint-Vivant – from a plot in the northern end of RSV – that originates from the old Charles Noëllat estate. The nose offer detailed red berries perfumed with peony rose and violets – delicate notes of forest strawberries, dark cherries, and even some sweet amaretto cherries – all infused by a delicate yet deep minerality – finely grained but very much present. On the palate gorgeous juicy fruit lovely verve and balance offering a delicate freshness a long and quite intense and persistent finish. A gorgeous RSV – Outstanding (95 – 96p).
The battle of the RSVs
As mentioned I also had the opportunity to taste the Romanée Saint-Vivant 2016 from cask and the 2014 from bottle – and therefore the possibility to compare the three latest vintages at this very high level.You need to login to read the rest of this article. If you are not a subscriber, use the subscribe function and sign-up.