The village of Chassagne-Montrachet offer a large range of fine producers – many producing high quality whites – but Domaine Morey-Coffinet seem to take the wines to a higher level than most in my view.
Domaine Morey-Coffinet is managed by the very competent and friendly Thibault Morey who received us generously in late March 2017 to taste the 2016s at this early stage.
The Morey-Coffinet estate
Domaine Morey-Coffinet was established by Michel Morey, the son of Marc Morey of Domaine Marc Morey. The Coffinet name comes from the wife of Michel Morey, Fabienne, who is the daughter of Fernand Coffinet and Cécile Pillot – the sister of Paul Pillot.
So a domaine established in on the basis of the Marc Morey estate (1/3) – the remaining part is now owned by the sisters of Michel and then the old Domaine Coffinet – now Domaine Coffinet-Duvernay – that is owned by Fabiennes sister Laura Coffinet who is running this estate with her partner Phillippe Duvernay.
Michel Morey has now been succeeded by his son Thibault Morey who is doing a great job and making some truly gorgeous wines in the beautifully vaulted cellars in the southern part of Chassagne-Montrachet.
The estate has a lovely collection of vineyards including 0.65 ha of Chassagne-Montrachet En Caillerets and 0.80 ha of Chassagne-Montrachet La Romanée. More interestingly, perhaps, is that Thibault also have small holdings in Chassagne-Montrachet Dents de Chien and a perfectly located plot in Blanchots Dessus (just south of the Lafon plot in Montrachet) and also a nice chunk of Chassagne-Montrachet En Remilly (0.35 ha). Futhermore small holdings in Batard-Montrachet and Puligny-Montrachet Les Pucelles compliments the Chassagne holdings … and while the plots are rather small in some places … it’s hard to find a more exiting portfolio in Chassagne than this … excluding the mighty Domaine Ramonet with it’s generous holdings Grand Cru holdings.
Thibault also makes some truly beautiful reds from Chassagne-Montrachet Les Chaumes, Morgeot and Clos St. Jean – the latter being planted by his father 30 years ago in the area behind the estate.
Domaine Morey-Coffinet has introduced organic viticulture and has been certified since 2015. Lastly Morey-Coffinet also have a small negociant business – Maison Morey-Coffinet … without further ado – to the wines!
The wines tasted at Domaine Morey-Coffinet
We tasted the 2016 reds and whites from cask and a few older wines to sample the style and qualities of the estate and while the 2016s are very young these were confirmed by the quality of the older wines tasted …
While the 2016s here are absolutely delightful and quite easy to taste at the time, I do feel it’s too early for me to make proper and formal tasting notes based on this tasting – especially as this was the first time tasting the wines from cask here. So I will merely focus on some comments and indications – and I do hope to be back to taste the wines again later.
The 2016 reds from Domaine Morey-Coffinet
I do have a soft spot for red Chassagne and sometimes it pains me to see how many lovely plots are converted from Pinot Noir to Chardonnay in this appellation. According to Jasper Morris 62% of the Chassagne production was reds in 1976 whereas the proportion was reduced to 30% i 2010 – and this trend seem to continue as prices on whites are higher than the prices the produces can claim for a red Chassagne from the same vineyard.
I was therefore delighted to find several different reds in More-Coffinet portfolio – of which we tasted the Bourgogne Pinot Noir, the Chassagne-Montrachet village, the Chassagne-Montrachet Clos St. Jean and Morgeot.
The 2016 reds have an inherent charm and energy with a nice intensity and concentration – they are transparent and quite a lot cooler than the 2015s.
The Bourgogne Pinot Noir 2016 offer plenty of charm – forward and quite floral (although malo slightly present) – with a nice feel and weight for this level – a lovely generic Burgundy.
The Chassagne-Montrachet 2016 offer plenty of juicy red fruit – cool and transparent – offering the lovely characteristic Chassagne drinkability – a very good wine in the making.
Moving up to the Chassagne-Montrachet Clos St. Jean 2016 – a very refined and detailed effort, and my favourite of the reds. The nose offer detailed and cool red fruit – cherries, hint of pomegranate – lovely filigree minerality. On the palate fine mouth feel – refined and effortless charm – with a lovely delicate display of the juicy 2016 fruit. This is a truly fine effort … magnificent juice.
The Chassagne-Montrachet Morgeot 2016 red is a more robust and structured wine than the Clos St. Jean – a lovely wine by all standards – although I do prefer the effortless refinement of Clos St. Jean. The Morgeot is however offering another side of the red Chassagnes – a more powerful and intense minerality – more weight and intensity on the palate – making it a better match for more weighty food. A fine and powerful red Chassagne.
The 2016 whites from Domaine Morey-Coffinet
We also had the pleasure of tasting some of the white 2016s (a treat considering the small quantifies). Style-wise also cooler than 2015 – classic white Burgundies – fruity and generous and not quite as detailed, linear and cool as the 2014s.
The 2016s seem to offer a bit more volume or generosity than the 2014, yet they are still cool, classic and focused. It seems like a charming and quite adorable vintage – looking forward to taste more when they progress in cask.
The first white – the Bourgogne Blanc 2016 – a delightful glass – fine balance, lovely purity, length and depth for this level – elegant even. Serious effort as an entry white.
Next up the Chassagne-Montrachet village – a very vibrant wine with a delicate fruit and a fine linear fresh acidity. A refined village – offering a nice presentation of the house style.
Stepping up the game to Chassagne-Montrachet les Caillerets – one of the best 1er crus – a very harmonious and hedinistic wine (classic Caillerets) – offering effortless drinking, with plenty of detail and refinement. A very elegant wine – very fine by all standards.
This was followed by Chassagne La Romanée – a vineyard I rarely taste. This is slightly more rich and weighty than the airy Les Caillerets – offering a lovely floral and open bouquet. Perhaps not quite as refined as the Caillerets – but it’s a close call at this stage – both are lovely efforts.
Moving on to Puligny Montrachet Les Pucelles 2016 we take another step up the quality ladder – this is serious stuff. Puligny-Montrachet can produces some of the most refined white Burgundies, although it lacks the true and almost violent Grand Cru power. The nose is offering detailed citrus infused minerality – slightly perfumed – very stony with a lovely cool fruit and depth. A notch up in complexity and length from the Chassagnes … potentially outstanding.
And finally the Bartard-Montrachet – a treat to taste this given all the production lost during the frost. This is a refined and generous Batard – nose offer lovely minerality – smoky with the new oak still forward in the bouquet. On the palate very mineral and light-footed offering a effortless intensity and power. A very elegant Batard … truly Outstanding.
I feel good …
For me the wines of Thibault Morey strikes a lovely balance between power and refinement, between classic Chassagne and more “modern” styled white Burgundies.
I must say that I really enjoy the wines from this estate .. and it was a great treat to visit … a new favorite estate in Chassagne … alongside a few other top end producers.