What can I say – really happy to be back at Morey-Coffinet visiting the great wines of Thibault Morey – this time the 2017s.
A lovely vintage – with good production – relatively classic with some sunny sides to the wines – as many vintages these years.
The wines are charming, enjoyable, balanced with fine energy and plenty of vivid energy.
First a bit about the estate – partly repeated from last tasting report – but nevertheless good background on the fine vineyard portfolio of the estate.
The Morey-Coffinet estate
Domaine Morey-Coffinet was established by Michel Morey, the son of Marc Morey of Domaine Marc Morey. The Coffinet name comes from the wife of Michel Morey, Fabienne, who is the daughter of Fernand Coffinet and Cécile Pillot – the sister of Paul Pillot.
So a domaine established in on the basis of the Marc Morey estate (1/3) – the remaining part is now owned by the sisters of Michel and then the old Domaine Coffinet – now Domaine Coffinet-Duvernay – that is owned by Fabiennes sister Laura Coffinet who is running this estate with her partner Phillippe Duvernay.
Michel Morey has now been succeeded by his son Thibault Morey who is doing a great job and making some truly gorgeous wines in the beautifully vaulted cellars in the southern part of Chassagne-Montrachet.
The estate has a lovely collection of vineyards including 0.65 ha of Chassagne-Montrachet En Caillerets and 0.80 ha of Chassagne-Montrachet La Romanée. More interestingly, perhaps, is that Thibault also have small holdings in Chassagne-Montrachet Dents de Chien and a perfectly located plot in Blanchots Dessus (just south of the Lafon plot in Montrachet) and also a nice chunk of Chassagne-Montrachet En Remilly (0.35 ha). Futhermore small holdings in Batard-Montrachet and Puligny-Montrachet Les Pucelles compliments the Chassagne holdings … and while the plots are rather small in some places … it’s hard to find a more exiting portfolio in Chassagne than this … excluding the mighty Domaine Ramonet with it’s generous holdings Grand Cru holdings.
Thibault also makes some truly beautiful reds from Chassagne-Montrachet Les Chaumes, Morgeot and Clos St. Jean – the latter being planted by his father 30 years ago in the area behind the estate.
Domaine Morey-Coffinet has introduced organic viticulture and has been certified since 2015. Lastly Morey-Coffinet also have a small negociant business – Maison Morey-Coffinet … without further ado – to the wines!
The wines tasted at Domaine Morey-Coffinet
We tasted the 2017 reds and whites from cask a lovely collection, although a with some variation in style and expression – more about this below.
The 2017 whites from Domaine Morey-Coffinet
I had the pleasure of tasting some of the white 2017s. Style-wise cooler than 2015 – but in at least partly somewhat warmer than the 2016s – fruity and generous and not quite as detailed, linear and cool as the 2014s.
The 2017s seem to offer a bit more volume or generosity than some of the 2016s … whereas they are tighther than some 2016s – depending on the harvesting time, and the location of the vineyeard.
Domaine Morey-Coffinet, Bourgogne Blanc 2017
The first white – the Bourgogne Blanc 2017 – a delightful glass – delicate balance, length and depth for this level. Airy for this level and showing a fine potential.
(Drink From 2019) – Good – (84 – 85p) – tasted 29/05/2018
Domaine Morey-Coffinet, Saint-Romain Sous Les Chateau 2017
This is a negegoce wine .. The Saint-Romain Les Chateau is fresh and quite vibrant .. generous mid-palate fruit, with a lovely riperness. A lovely wine – classic Saint-Romain in development.
(Drink From 2021) – Good++ – (86 – 87p) – tasted 29/05/2018
Domaine Morey-Coffinet, Chassagne-Montrachet 2017
The Chassagne village is quite a big step up, offering classic notes of both the producer and the appellation. In the bouquet fresh and vivid fruit, and on the palate lovely ripeness – giving the wine both a lovely balance and perhaps a slightly warm note.
(Drink From 2023) – Very Good – (88 – 89p) – tasted 29/05/2018
Domaine Morey-Coffinet, Meursalt V.V. 2017
The Meursault V.V. is generos, with a sweet and ripe fruit on the mid-palate. The nose is quite expressive offering ripe fruit .. and a quite velvet feel. On the palate quite intense with a lovely fruit – fine acidity .. good freshness for the vintage.
(Drink From 2025) – Very Good – (88 – 90p) – tasted 29/05/2018
Domaine Morey-Coffinet, Chassagne-Montrachet En Caillerets 2017
The Chassagne-Montrachet Les Cailerrets is one of my favourites .. very elegant and classic. The bouquet offer lovely fresh fruit – hint of anise – with a charming refererence to the Caillerets. On the palate airy and vivid .. very elegant and charming.
(Drink From 2027) – Fine+ – (92 – 93p) – tasted 29/05/2018
Domaine Morey-Coffinet, Chassagne-Montrachet La Romanee 2017
Older wines – 60 year ,, darker color .. but also more depth and oomph. It’s elegant and with a lovely energy – rather densely constituated. A classic Chassagne .. with a quite effortless energy and length.
(Drink From 2027) – Fine+ – (92 – 93p) – tasted 29/05/2018
Domaine Morey-Coffinet, Chassagne-Montrachet Dent de Chien 2017
The Dents de Chien is currently lacking a bit of the fresheness found in some of the other wines. It a relatively big wine, rich and almost dense – tremendous stony minerality. Fine potential here – lets see if the Dent de Chien will find it’s form and vibrant freshness.
(Drink From 2025) – Fine – (91 – 92p) – tasted 29/05/2018
Domaine Morey-Coffinet, Chassagne-Montrachet Blanchots Dessus 2017
The Blanchots Dessus is a step up in all accounts. Tremendous balance and depth – with a serious grand cru feel. Love the generous feel of this wine ,, vivacious, voloptuous and still fit and firmly structured.
(Drink From 2027) – Very Fine – (93 – 94p) – tasted 29/05/2018