Visit Maison Chatereves in Savigny Les Beaune – tasting and re-tasting of the 2016 vintage..
I tasted the 2016s from Chantereves already in March and it was quite early for the reds, and moreover way to early to taste the whites. So I’m BACK … to taste both reds and whites.
Firstly – great to see a lot of wine in the cellar for a change – the 2017 vintage has yielded plenty of juice – and this has also given the necociants better opportunities to buy grapes – hence also Chantereves. So if not plenty of wine in 2017 – much more than in the 2016 vintage.
I was received by Tomoko – who was still on summertime despite the quite cool temperatures in Savigny Les Beaune on this November day … as always a great pleasure to visit this estate.
Background – Chantereves, Savigny, Rheingau and Japan
I do hope that you know Chantereves by now .. but just to give some background to new readers: Chantereves is a small negociant located in a celler below a modern villa in Savigny-Les-Beaune.
The estate is founded and managed by two very talented winemakers … Tomoko Kuriyama and Guillaume Bott, who as wife and husband have joined forces in producing a small selection of wines from grapes bought from different vineyard owners around Burgundy. First vintage was 2010.
Tomoko originates from Japan but has taken her wine education at the famous wine university in Geisenheim Germany. After finishing her education she worked as estate manager at the well known Rheingau estate, Friedrich Altenkirch. Guillaume Bott is working as winemaker at the very well known Domaine Simon Bize also in Savigny-Les-Beaune, and previously he worked at Etienne Sauzet in Puligny-Montrachet.
The Chantereves wines in 2016
Chantereves suffered a great loss of grapes due to the April 2016 frost. Tomoko and Guillaume tried hard to fill in the gaps in the lineup, yet several of the regular cuvées are missing this year – no Volnay and Pommard in 2016 sadly.
They have nevertheless succeeded in making some lovely 2016s, in my view, and while quantities are limited – the quality and intensity of the 2016s are at a high level. The low yields have produced wines with both balance and intensity – and the vintage works well with the fresh and vibrant style of the house …
Comments and notes from the tasting of the 2016s – November 13th 2017
The red 2016s are still showing very well indeed – fulfilling the promise they showed in March. They are like the 2014s and 2015s made with 100% whole clusters, and this style is working very well indeed for Chantereves.
The excellent Bourgogne Rouge from Chantereves is made as a blend of two cuvées – one from the Puligny-Montrachet area and one from the Hautes Côtes de Beaune area made from a interesting granite soil. Both are unique in their own way – with the Puligny cuvée light and floral and the Hautes Côtes de Beaune more rich and “creamy”.
This year the Bourgogne rouge is made as in the previous years as a blend of the two cuvées. The blend is 60% Hautes Côtes de Beaune (Declassified) and 40% from the “Puligny” area. Furthermore four barrels of the Hautes Côtes de Beaune cuvée will be bottled separately as – surprise – Hautes Côte de Beaune ….
I tasted the two cuvées separately – hence the two elements of the Bourgogne Rouge (but not the assembled wine).
Maison Chantereves, Bourgogne Rouge 2016
The Bourgogne rouge cuvée originating from the Puligny-Montrachet area is showing fine energy and minerality – pure and vibrant with a floral and expressive nose. On the palate lighter and vibrant with some stony “Puligny” character (not much red Puligny is made these days though!). It’s a quite light-footed wine and it’s therefore blended with the Hautes Côtes de Beaune – note below – to create a more rich and balanced wine. As the Hautes Côtes de Nuits is 60% of the final blend of the Bourgogne Rouge – and it will no doubt have the same balanced expression as in the previous vintages. I’m sure this will make a lovely and Good wine. Get some!
A new wine in the lineup is the Hautes Côtes de Nuits a wine that is normally declassified into the Bourgogne rouge – see above. The quality of this wine is however too good not to bottle separately – so four casks (presumably the best – just guessing) are bottled separately as Hautes Côtes de Beaune.
Maison Chantereves, Hautes Côte de Beaune 2016
The second cuvée comes from Hautes Côtes de Nuits and a quite unique granite soil – it’s richer and offering a more generous mid-palate fruit and more broad minerality wise. This is clearly a bigger wine and it has gained a lovely creamy note during the elevage. The mineral character of this wine is quite interesting – and it makes sense to produce a separate cuvée letting the granite soil sing on it’s own. A lovely wine in it’s own right – and as the backbone of the Bourgogne rouge.
Maison Chantereves, Nuits-Saint-Georges Les Damodes 2016
The Nuits-Saint-Georges Les Damodes 2016 is a utterly beautiful wine – more defined and detailed than the otherwise lovely 2015 edition of this wine. The nose is brimming with floral and expressive red and dark fruits – spiced with notes of peony rose, violets and cinnamon. On the palate very vibrant and energetic fruit – lovely acidity and detailed berries – hints of pomegranate. This is showing very well – Chapeau!
To the whites – note I only took a brief look at these in March of 2017. The whites are also singing beautifully with the elegant and filigree style of Chantereves working well with the intensity of the vintage.
Maison Chantereves, Bourgogne Blanc 2016
The Bourgogne Blanc is intense and well balanced – somewhat darker in the fruit than usually – offering plenty of stuffing for this level. It’s offering a nice reductive note in the bouquet – nice minerality and fruit. On the palate nice intensity and freshness + a lovely mineral note in the finish. The 2016 whites have a fine balance between weight and freshness and will no doubt offer nice drinking.
Maison Chantereves, Saint Romain Combe Bazin 2016
The Saint-Romain is quite a step up in energy and refinement. The bouquet offer vibrant and pure fruit, presented with a citrus infused minerality. On the palate vibrant and mineral coated fruit .. lovely energy and intensity. Love the floral character of this wine with the 2016 intensity as a nice bonus – this is a treat.
Maison Chantereves, Auxey Duresses Les Hautes Blanc 2016
The Auxey Duresses is also showing very well. In the bouquet deep citrus (grape) infused fruit. On the palate quite powerful and generous fruit – a charming mid-palate sweetness – lovely minerality and a fine intensity. It’s a bit more on the intense and powerful side than the energetic Saint-Romain – a lovely glass that will suit more robust food.
Recommended by the Winehog
The 2016s from Chantereves are all showing very well – sadly the quantities are low. I especially recommend the Bourgogne Rouges, the Saint-Romain and the Nuits-Saint-Georges Les Damodes as these are showing a beautiful energy.
The rest of the lineup is also showing well … so no reason to be very picky