This fall has been awful, to say the least, with the Coronavirus destroying all planning. While I was lucky in the spring, that luck changed in the viral chaos of October, November and December.
One of the producers I would have visited is Arnaud Baillot – a relatively new name on the horizon. Despite not getting there, I want to give him a short introduction before I visit in early 2021 – I hope.
Burgundy is all about vineyards, vineyards and, oh yes, vineyards. In this respect, Arnaud Baillot is well connected, as his wife, Laure, is the sister of Charles Van Canneyt of Domaine Hudelot-Noëllat. He is thus related to the large Hudelot and Noëllot clans, so well-connected and some interesting wines in the lineup already from the beginning.
Domaine Arnaud Baillot is located in Levernois just south-east of Beaune. A closer description will have to wait until a visit is possible.
The Meursault that nailed the Hog
I tasted a small line-up of Baillot’s wines in Copenhagen in September and was properly impressed, while perhaps not over-the-moon excited – as the whites from the 2018 vintage is perhaps not my favourite cup of tea. The event was held at one of my favourite watering holes, Enomania – Italian food and Burgundian juice does work well here. The Baillot wines were served by the impoter Rufus Vin Aps.
The big gun of the reds should have been Baillot’s 2018 Vosne-Romanée Les Suchots, but this was sadly corked, which left the red line-up limping somewhat classification wise. Still, this happens. That’s why a re-taste is needed, or preferably, a proper tasting at Baillot – who also make a Romanée Saint-Vivant as his top appellation.
The whites – or should I say the white – seriously impressed me.
Meursault Limozin is a very good – yet strangely overlooked – village terroir located just below Genevrieres and the other 1ers crus. Arnaud Baillot’s 2017 version has the perfect balance between intensity and lively freshness. It is a delightful wine on a par with those from good producers like Fabien Coche; the energy and hint of hedonism really ring my Christmas bells. Style-wise, it is a bit reserved, but with a lovely, classic Meursault palate. That good? Yes indeed – – 90p (Drink before 2027).
We tasted on the same occasion a couple of other wines: the Corton-Charlemagne 2018 stood out as quite refined, yet it was surprisingly hard-pressed by the 2017 Meursault Limozin. While the Corton is clearly a better wine, 2018, which shows a bit dense and rough around the edges, suffers in comparison with 2017.
That said, it is a fine Corton-Charlemagne, well made and, for the vintage, with good hedonistic energy.
I am optimistic regarding both the Corton and Baillot in general: There is real talent here. I am looking forward to tasting the 2019s.