Mark Haisma’s winery is in a new business area in Gilly-les-Citeaux, the same area where one finds Domaine Laurent Ponsot. Not the most charming place in Burgundy, but the new buildings are very efficient.
And Mark Haisma is an efficient vigneron. He thinks in terms of viticulture, winemaking, and marketing. Listening to what he says, one can learn much more from a visit chez Haisma than at many more prominent estates in the region.
I meet all kinds of winegrowers, and all work well for me if the wines are good. And the Haisma line-up impresses me, particularly in 2021, a vintage notoriously difficult for vignerons relying on acquired grapes.
I like the basics of Mark Haisma’s wines. Not all of them are my favourites, but the best offer quite a lot more of genuine “Burgundy” than many of the wines produced in nearby villages.
So let’s go to Gilly!
The 2021 reds from Mark Haisma
The quality of Haisma’s red 2021s really impressed me. They were made with a gentle hand, leaving ample room to express both fruit and terroir. They are on occasion vins d’émotion, easy-going and effortless, showing detail almost naturally.
To the notes!
Mark Haisma “A Bogan in Bogandy” 2021
The 2021 “A Bogan In Bogandy” is a blend of gamay, pinot noir, and syrah. It is as such a likeable wine; however, the syrah presence does not do anything good for me. Call me conservative or grumpy, but a clean blend of pinot/gamay would work better in my book.
(Drink from 2023) – Good – Tasted 23/11/2022
Mark Haisma Bourgogne Pinot Noir 2021
Back on track with the Bourgogne rouge. Fine and quite rich, there is good depth and intensity for this level. Made from fruit in frost-hit Brochon, thus only five barrels versus ten normally. A vin de soif pure and simple.
(Drink from 2022) – Good+ – Tasted 23/11/2022 –
Mark Haisma Volnay La Cave 2021
The Volnay La Cave is again this year a brilliant village wine. With juicy raspberries on the nose, it is intensely vivid yet surprisingly delicate, with a unique energy and liveliness. Floral and quite frisky, once again, this is an outstanding Volnay village, recalling some of Thomas Bouley’s wines from this fine vineyard.
(Drink from 2021) – Very Good+ (90p) – Tasted 23/11/2022 –
Mark Haisma Fixin 2021
The Fixin is serious business compared with the Volnay. It is, however, airy and kept in balance, keeping well away from the inkiness that can often be seen in these wines. Charming? Admittedly yes. But it doesn’t speak to my heart.
(Drink from 2023) – Good+ (87p) – Tasted 23/11/2022
Mark Haisma Pernand-Vergelesses Les Pins 2021
Quite rich and velvety, with 20% stems included, this comes from white clay looking southwest. It has nice depth and balance, with a fine saline touch. An enjoyable and stylistically characteristic wine.
(Drink from 2028) – Very Good+ (89-90p) – Tasted 23/11/2022
Mark Haisma Gevrey-Chambertin 2020
From a mixed bag of village vineyards in Gevrey – La Justice and Billard – this has a fine, rich touch for the vintage. Intense but not dense, it shows all the traits I love in a generic Gevrey. A vin de soif, this is drinking very well indeed.
(Drink from 2028) – Very Good (89p) – Tasted 23/11/2022 –
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