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Visit Domaine Grivot: Tasting of the 2015s from cask
To be honest I was very impressed indeed by the 2015s when I tasted them in June 2016 – it was before malo, so I was quite cautious not to be too exited, but already at that point I felt that something special was fermenting in the barrels in the cellars at Domaine Grivot.
I was therefore very exited when I arrived in Rue de la Croix Rameau, and was received by Mathilde Grivot. Would the 2015s unfold the promise they showed before malo … or would this tremendous freshness and energy have diminished during the malolactic fermentation.
No worries … the 2015s here are just as good as expected, and although they have not been bottled yet, I feel it’s now appropriate to be very exited about the quality of these wines.
Impressions from the tasting of the 2015s from Domaine Grivot
When I was contemplating this article I began to think of the old Prince tune .. Diamonds and Pearls .. it seems appropriate when describing the 2015s Grivots.
The overall level is very impressive indeed, and the vibrant freshness found in almost all the wines is truly amazing … for me 2015 is all about energy and freshness, as power and weight is abundant in this vintage.
Domaine Grivot has in my opinion produced one of the very best line-ups in this vintage, and there are plenty of magnificent wines to choose from in the large portfolio … some are “merely” pearls while while others are the most beautifully cut diamonds.
The wines are pure, transparent, intense yet vibrant and fresh with a effortless display of fruit and terroir … they are wines with both charm and appeal … i.e. you really want to enjoy another glass .. and then yet another.
As I wrote about the 2014s Grivot has really taken a big step forward quality wise over the last years, and I do feel that the 2015s is the pinnacle of this development .. so far .. as the 2015s adds both depth and intensity to the fine 2014s. While I love the 2014s, one need to recognize the extraordinary qualities of the best 2015s .. and in this case we are talking about some of the top shelf 2015s.
Despite the extra weight and intensity the refined style of the previous vintages has been maintained to a large extend .. these are gorgeous wines, they are highly recommended.
So with further ado .. lets go to the notes …
Tasting notes of the 2015s from Domaine Grivot
Starting out with the Bourgogne Rouge 2015, a very juicy generous wine for this level .. fine freshness lovely red and dark berry fruit and even a slight hint of Vosne violets in the nose – this wine is from a vineyard located below the N974 close to the southern end of Vosne-Romanée appellation. Style wise its in line with the bigger wines .. and for this level the complexity and purity is impressive.Good++ (86-88p).
Moving up to the Vosne-Romanée 2015 .. a lovely village in the making. This is a very forward and quite floral wine offering fine and elegant freshness .. a lovely bouquet with red and dark fruit – hint of blueberries and fresh red currant notes complimented by a nice mineral spiciness. On palate vibrant fruit – intense yet light-footed – showing a refined and delicate side of Vosne. A hedonistic wine rather than an intellectual exercise .. it´s build for pleasure; Gorgeous – Very Good++ (90 – 91p)
Next up is Nuits-Saint-Georges Aux Laviéres 2015 – a bigger wine than the Vosne-Village with a large foot planted in the Vosne-Romanée aromatic world. The bouquet offer expressive red and dark fruit – hints of red and dark cherries and some sweeter red berries. It offers more depth and length than the Vosne village, and is more defined terroir wise as a lieu-dit. – Fine (90 – 91p)
The Vosne-Romanee Bossiéres this is clearly a step up from the Vosne-Village offering more depth and length. The bouquet offer some darker berries and more layers and complexity – fine notes of violets and rose petals. On the palate a very fresh fruit – deep for the village level – with a tremendous energy. This is a top end village offering some of the best sides of the 2015 vintage – Fine (91 – 92p)
Next we find the Chambolle-Musigny La Combe d’Orveau 2015 … another magnificent glass from a vineyard located just north of En Orveaux in Flagey-Echezeaux .. as a small appendix to Chambolle-Musigny. This has really benefited from the cool breeze from the Combe – offering tremendous vibrant energy and freshness. The bouquet is almost an explosion of red vibrant fruit – notes of sweet red forest berries and fresh red currant – supported by a fine filigree minerality. On the palate rich and generous but first and foremost vibrant with a beautiful energetic tension – Very Fine (92 – 93p)
Entering 1er cru set (Grivot makes 9 different 1er crus) we find the Vosne-Romanée Les Chaumes 2015 – as with the 2014 vintage this is really showing well. The nose is bursting with generous red fruit and a spicy minerality. On the palate hedonistic fruit generosity – fine red fruit with fresh notes of pomegranate and red current – very gratifying and charming. This is a vineyard that did very well indeed in the 2015 vintage – love the energy – Fine++ (92 – 93p).
In the other end of the appellation – or rather in Flagey-Echezeaux we find Vosne-Romanée Les Rouges 2015 – just above the Echezeaux of Domaine Grivot. This is also a forward and energetic wine with a lovely tension and vibrancy – with a bit of extrovert show-off so typical of this terroir. A fine mix of red and dark berry fruit – some rich and sweet red notes but invigorated by red currant and some darker berries to add both freshness and complexity. This is a wine for pleasure and enjoyment with its forward and slightly “dramatic” style – Very Fine (93 – 94p).
Next up or should I say just south Vosne-Romanée Les Beaux Monts 2015. This is a wine of more depth and intensity than the forward Les Rouges. The nose is offering layers of deep and vibrant fruit – notes of red and dark currant and sweet forest strawberries – brought forward by a quite powerful minerality – hints of violets and peony rose. On the palate rich, deep and focused offering a balanced but rich mid-palate fruit. It’s a beautiful rich yet classic Les Beaux Monts – love the balance and intensity in this wine … Very Fine+ (93 – 94p).
A bit further south we find the magnificent Vosne-Romanée Aux Brûlées 2015 … this is a truly hedonistic and sexy wine in the 2015 vintage. The red fruit is extremely generous and velvet offering a rich and sunny expression – sweet forest strawberries with a lovely vibrant freshness from pomegranate and red currant. This is presumably also a wine that benefited from the cool breeze from the Combe above … and while it was truly delightful in the 2014 vintage the 2015 is yet another step up. I adore this wine – Outstanding (94 – 95p).
The rare Vosne-Romanée Aux Reignots is another step up in intensity and power, but is perhaps lacking a bit of the exuberant energy found in the Brûlées. The Reignots is a darker, more weighty wine offering a tremendous floral mineral backbone. The bouquet is crammed with juicy fruit – balance a bit towards the darker berries – the powerful Reignot minerality is lurking in the background. On the palate rich, velvet and layered – it’s powerful and quite energetic – with a long mineral infused finish. A big Reignots – and most likely slightly better that the hedonistic Aux Brûlées – Outstanding (95 – 96p).
The last of the Vosne 1er crus is the Vosne-Romanée Les Suchots 2015. This is a great year for Les Suchots – and Grivot most certainly has made the most of it. This is also a hedonistic wine build for indulgence and pleasure. The bouquet offer layers of juicy fruit – floral and refined and supported by a filigree minerality. On the palate silky, generous and vibrant with layers of juicy fruit. More forward that the Reignots, and perhaps not quite in the same league – but offering tremendous length and intensity. In my view the last three 1er crus are quite close … and while the Suchots is delightful .. it’s perhaps struggling to surpass both Reignots and Brûlées … but why choose? – Outstanding (94 – 95p).
Moving on to the three last 1ers of Nuits-Saint-Georges – Ronciere, Prulieres and Boudots. These are also showing well, but the vintage does perhaps suits the Vosne terroirs better than the NSG vinyards located between Premeaux and Nuits-Saint-Georges. Grivot has done well, and somehow it’s often unfair that these are served after the Vosne-Romanée 1er crus .. They may cope well power wise, but they do in my view not match the previous 1er crus on refinement and delicacy.
The Nuits-Saint-Georges Ronciére 2015 is a fine and elegant NSG for the vintage, and not hot like other wines from this part of the appellation. The bouquet offer fine and relatively fresh fruit – red and dark cherries with hints of red currant – supported by a fine intense somewhat earthy minerality. On the palate lovely balanced with a fine fresh mid-palate fruit. Elegant for a Nuits-Saint-Georges 2015 – Fine+ (92 – 93p).
Nuits-Saint-Georges Les Prulieres 2015 is a step up in intensity and clearly a bigger wine. It’s also in my view the warmest of the 2015s from Grivot, and in that way more typical for the wines from this area of NSG in this vintage. That being said it’s a fine 2015 with plenty of fruit, fine balance, and is by no means a very hot wine. It offers plenty of concentration, the fruit is pure and has a nice energy and a fine length. Fine++ (92 – 94p).
The Nuits-Saint-Georges Aux Boudots 2015 and now back on the Vosne side of Nuits-Saint-Georges. This is offering more energy – sweet juicy fruit in the bouquet – slightly reduced but offering a nice depth and intensity. On the palate rich and generous, well structured with a hint of it’s NSG origin. A powerful wine with very fine depth and length. This appeals more to me with it’s detailed fruit and fine intensity. Very Fine (93 – 94p).
To the Grand Crus … the Clos de Vougeot 2015 – – it’s always difficult to taste the Clos de Vougeots early on, as the oak seem to integrate slowly. This is however showing well with a fine detailed red and dark berry fruit and a deep refined earthy note.. oak slightly forward still. On the palate rich and intense fruit – fine acidity and freshness – a very important factor in this vintage. Seems like Clos de Vougeot has done very well in this vintage – perhaps due to the breeze from the Combe d’Orveau or the rather humid soil that protected the wines against the drought during the hot summer. The Clos de Vougeot from Grivot is for me a wine of balance – and this is also the case in 2015 – what a delightful wine – Outstanding (95 – 96p).
The Echezeaux 2015 is a mind-blowing wine offering all the best sides of the 2015 vintage. The bouquet is an explosion of juicy red fruit interlinked with the tremendous minerality of the great Les Cruots terroir. On the palate layers of tremendously energetic fruit – a gorgeous tension between sweet red fruit and some vibrant elements of red currant and pomegranate. This is truly outstanding or even extraordinary wine .. one of the best Echezeaux’s I have tasted – Outstanding+ (96 – 97p).
Moving up to the mighty Richebourg 2015 there is a sense of regal effortlessness that one only find in the biggest terroirs. The bouquet offer layred red and dark fruit – sligthtly darker biased than the Echezeaux – very deep and with a tremendous floral minerality as a focusing element. On the palate rich and very detailed mid-palate fruit – effortless yet so precise and intense. A great Richebourg in the making, and while I adore the Echezeaux .. this is the better wine in 2015 an presumably one of the top wines of the vintage – Extraordinary (97 – 98p).
Summing up a tremendous lineup with a lot of magnificent wines that offers the best sides of the 2015 vintage. Especially the freshness and energy in this lineup has impressed me … not many can match this seen throughout the whole range.
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Winehog – Recommendations
Domaine Grivot produce a very large portfolio of wines … quality is very high overall .. one of the best lineups made in 2015 in my view. It’s hard to pick a few favorites … but this is my selection if I have to limit myself to six wines.
First pick is the Vosne-Romanée 2015 for it’s forward and hedonistic personality. Next is the Chambolle-Musigny La Combe d’Orveau 2015 a must in my view with it’s tremendous energy. I have embraced the next terroir for the forward and slightly dramatic nature of the wines – the Vosne-Romanée Les Rouges. With only three left I will pick the Vosne-Romanée Aux Brûlées 2015 and the Vosne-Romanée Les Suchots 2015. And since the Aux Reignots is impossible to find and the Domaine Grivot Richebourg 2015 is outside my reach I fear (these are both very highly recommended) I would take the truly magnificent Echezeaux 2015 as the last of the six wines.