The Musigny 1990 from Roumier is a mind-blowing wine … at age 25 it still needs 5 to 10 years more in the cellar to unfold completely. The bouquet is however quite open at this stage … revealing more and more glimps of the tremendous complexity hiding underneath the intense and quite tightly knit fruit. The nose offers layers of gorgeous redberry fruit, prunes, tar, oriental spices, hints of sous-bois and a beautiful filigree minerality from the mighty Musigny terroir. On the palate very cool and refined for a 1990, with a core of airy yet very intense fruit … its long, powerful, focused and very refined. Love the cool almost regal touch the Musigny terroir adds to the Roumier style. A truly magnificent wine – by quite some margin the best and most refined Roumier I have ever tasted.
The Amoureuses 2000 from Vogüé is entering a lovely matured stage with quite expressive red fruit and a lovely balance and delicacy. The bouquet is showing cool red fruits and a delightful sous-bois with hints of truffle and a delicate minerality. On the palate just starting to show … medium weight, balanced .. fine length for the vintage .. offering a pure and transparant red fruits. Still some tannins in the finish – but well on its way towards maturity. Not a big wine though … but I do love the delicate and almost fragrant expression – a gorgeous “little” Amoureuses.
The Vosne-Romanee Les Beaux Monts 2009 from Dujac is a very intense effort. In the nose dark berry fruit … blueberries, raspberries and boysenberris … quite detailed with pure fruit aromas and some nice Vosne spices. On the palate … intense aromas … fruit driven and quite powerful .. but not big and dense. The acidity is fine for the vintage … a well balanced effort but need time to unfold.
The Chambolle 1er cru from Pacalet is showing better than expected. Slightly closed and dusty in the beginning – bouquet is cleaning up after some time in the glass – with juicy red fruit, layered and slightly darker than normal from Pacalet. Notes of strawberries, boysenberries … spiced with cinnamon … minerality not so distinct. On the palate quite weighty and intense with a long powerful finish – quite fresh for the vintage. Better than expected … very good … but not really a great fan of the 09s.
The Vosne-Romanee Clos du Chateau 2008 from Liger-Belair is showing extrovert youthful charm. The nose is rich and expressive with notes of red and dark fruits spiced with cinnamon, gun powder and a notch of oak. On the palate intensely weighty for the level and vintage … quite openly knit but with a lovely focusing minerality. Love the cool transparent fruit and the expression of terroir. A very good Vosne village … but not quite as refined as the recent vintages of this wine.
The Meursault Charmes 2010 from Antoine Jobard is a truly delightful effort. The nose is classic with quite expressive notes of melon, white peach, acacia, spiced with a discrete citrus infused minerality. On the palate rich and generous – with amble fruit focused by a fine acidity and a fine minerality for this terroir. Very harmonious and forward – a beautiful Meursault Charmes – from one of my favorite producers of white Burgundy.
The Volney Les Pitures from Dublére is a lovely delicate and transparent effort.The nose is showing lovely detailed red berry fruit – red cherries, hints of strawberries and raspberries – spiced with a stony minerality. On the palate airy and medium weight – very precise and defined – with a lovely pure and transparent red fruit. Love the energy and purity of this wine … showing well – love this style.
The Clos de la Bussiere 09 from Roumier is a very balanced effort for the vintage – and surprisingly forward. In the nose dark berry fruit – notes of cassis, blueberries, boysenberries and liquorice … intense yet not overtly sweet. On the palate rich and quite dense fruit .. but not too sweet or alcoholic like some other 09s. Will require at least 15 years to unfold completely … but is nevertheless quite accessible for a Roumier wine at this stage.
The Vosne Romanee Village 2012 from Regis Forey is a very nice effort. The nose is offering pure red and dark berry fruit … nice Vosne spicyness and a quite earthy minerality … coming from vineyards located around Clos de Vougeot. On the palate quite rich and velvet for this level … good weight. The finish is quite persistant with a slight dryness of tannins in the finish. Need time to unfold – perhaps slightly closed due to recent bottling – but the vintage with its abundant fruit really suits this wine.
The Echezeaux 2012 from Regis Forey is showing more forward accessibility than the serious Gaudichots. The bouquet display layers of juicy red fruit spiced with a nice minerality and notes of violets, cinnamon and allspice. On the palate quite rich relatively dark pinot fruit … lovely core of energetic fruit .. pure and with a very nice depth. Very well balanced with a lovely expression of terroir.
The Vosne Romanee Les Gaudichots 2012 from Regis Forey is a serious wine for the vintage. Made from very old wines – planted in 1930 – on the vineyard located just next to and above the mighty La Tache. The bouquet display layers of deep red fruit and a powerful minerality with intense Vosne spices – notes of peony rose and violets. On the palate layers of rich relatively dark pinot fruit – pure and with fine depth and quite ample tannins for a 2012. The mineralic backbone of this wine is impressive – and the finish is very focused and persistent. Slightly closed due to recent bottling.
The Vosne Les Beaux Monts is quite accessible for a young Clavelier. The nose is offering a intense and Vosne spicy expression of red berry fruit with hints of violets and liqourice and the classic Clavelier elderberries. On the palate quite intense and balanced with a good midpalate concentration of juicy pinot fruit. The minerality is refined and focused – providing a solid framework for the fruit. Clavelier have made some lovely 2011s.
The Chambolle-Musigny 2012 is gorgeaus and perhaps even better than expected. The nose is popping with red fruits – cherries, boysen berries, raspberries .. vibrant and juicy with a quite pronounced Chambolle minerality. On the palate medium weight with a lovely balance between the juicy fresh fruit and the underlying chambolle minerality. A terroir driven village with a lovely acidity … focused, energetic and vibrant … love it.
The Saint-Aubin Les Combes 2012 from Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey is really showing well. The nose is crammed with rich orchard fruits spiced with a citrus infused minerality. On the palate rich and weighty fruit … lovely nerve and energy. The finish is long with a delightful minieralic focus. A weigthy and powerful Saint-Aubin … lovely juice.
The Meursault Clos de la Barre 2007 from Lafon is showing well. Attractive fresh bouquet … white fruit, pear, apple … spiced with seashells and a citrus infused minerality. On the palate focused crisp with a lovely fresh acidity and a nice mineralic kick in the finish. Really like the defined focus and energy in this Meursault … a beautiful effort … lovely now – drink while it still have a vibrant freshness,
The Chambolle-Musigny 2010 from Dujac is a brilliant effort – and most likely the best village I have tasted from this fine estate. In the bouquet juicy airy fruit – raspberries, cherries – spiced with at crunchy Chambolle minerality and a liger-belair like hint of oak. On the palate cool and airy fruit – weighty, silky, rich and focused. The effortless intensity in this wine is truly impressive – and so is the zen like balance – love the cool refined expression of the Chambolle terroir … what a village wine.
The Chambolle La Combe d’Orveaux 2012 is a magnificent effort from Bruno Clavelier … one of the very best wines I have tasted from this fine domaine. The bouquet is bursting with layers of juicy red berry fruit … very forward, airy and expressive … all intensified by the powerful minerality from the vineyard located just south of and above Petits Musigny. On the palate layers of open, rich and velvet fruit – very expressive and charming … with the very powerful minerality as a focusing element. Its long, powerful and intense – a stony fist in velvet fruit. In my view very close to grand cru level … very accessible for a young Clavelier.
The 2012s from Liger-Belair looks like they will live up to the great promise they showed from cask … and then some. La Colombiere 2012 is currently showing layers of juicy red fruit – notes of sweet cherries, raspberries and strawberries – spiced with violets, gooseberries, asian spices and a discrete well integrated touch of oak. On the palate rich and velvet for this level … layers of silky fruit, focused by a nice crisp acidity and a fine underlying minerality. The fruit is organic, free and airy- impressive length. A gorgeous Vosne village in the making .. La Colombiere improves each year and this is perhaps the finest effort so far … rivaling the magnificent 2010.
The Gevrey-Chambertin is showing beautifully and is even better than expected. The nose is bursting with layers of sweet airy red fruit – very charming with nice hints of allspice and cinnamon. On the palate very forward and delightful … quite openly knit with a lovely weightless feel. Not the most concentrated of the village wines in 2012 … but it’s simply gorgeous.
The Auxey-Duresses Les Boutonniers 2010 from Lafouge is a very good effort for this level. The nose is slightly closed but still display a lovely selection of white and more exotic orchard fruits – supported by a nice discrete minerality. On the palate lovely effortless balance – very fine weight for this level. Not a big wine … but it’s very well made and offer delightful drinking. Will keep .. but why wait?