The Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Saint-Jacques 1996 from Jadot has entered a lovely semi-matured stage. The bouquet is expressive offering a nice selection of red and dark berries spiced with tar, truffles and sous-bois. The sweeter red fruit is tanking over – but still some unresolved dark fruit. On the palate excellent fruit .. quite rich and very well stuctured by the powerful 96 acidity .. still a core of unresolved dark fruit. A gorgeous wine with a lovely airy balance .. beautiful complexity .. a classic … need 5 years more to show the full potential.
One of the most famous 1er crus in Burgundy is Gevrey-Chambertin Le Clos Saint-Jacques. This fine reputation is primarily build by Domaine Armand Rousseau, who makes a magnificent wine from this vineyard.
There are however also other fine wines from this terroir – so lets explore the history and ownership a bit further.
The Gevrey Clos Saint Jacques 1990 from Jadot is showing gorgeously. The bouquet is brimming with mature red berry fruit, sous-bois, truffle, orange zest and a lovely earthy mineral note. On the palate layers of mature fruit – rich, seductive and with a long intense mineral driven finish. A very expressive and delightful wine … with all the qualities a mature Burgundy should have. I have tasted several of the Jadot 1990s and while the others are fine – the Clos Saint Jacques is really taking it to another level. What a treat.
The vineyards in Burgundy are numerous, and some are not even included in detailed maps over Burgundy. One of these vineyards is Puligny-Montrachet 1er cru Les Demoiselles.
I tried to find the location on my trusted standard map – the Atlas Vins app for iPad – made by the Sylvain Pitiot and Pierre Poupon – but no luck on these otherwise outstanding maps.
The 1990 Beaune Clos des Ursules from Jadot is starting to show some matured notes. In the nose red and dark berry fruit – raspberries, rich sous-bois with a lovely earthy minerality. On the palate still quite tight but starting to show some charming notes of red fruit – the alcohol is slightly forward currently. It’s a quite edgy and backward given the level and vintage. Need 5 years more to unfold and will keep for at least a decade. Really like this terroir .. but this example is slightly on the big and burly side.
The Beaune Clos des Ursules 1996 from Jadot has entered a matured stage. The nose offer lovely red forest berries, sous-bois with hints of truffle and citrus. On the palate quite rich and cool fruit with a fine backbone from the citrus infused acidity of the 1996 vintage. It’s very harmonious for a 1996 with rounded tannins and a nice earthy minerality – quite elegant and refined without the somwhat rustic notes found in some 1996s. Will keep 10 years more – but is already a great glass of matured pinot – love the fine match between the rich earthy terroir and the crisp acidity of the vintage.
The Chassagne Morgeot 1996 from Jadot is approaching a state of maturity. The bouquet is showing quite mature notes – hazelnuts, honey and a buttery yellow fruit. On the palate matured fruit – again fat buttery notes – held together by the powerful 1996 acidity. The finish is quite long and mineralic with the classic 1996 citrus notes. It’s showing good harmony and freshness with the citrus notes in the finish adding a good balance to the somewhat dense fruit. A lovely mature white Burgundy.
The Meursault Genevrieres 1999 from Louis Jadot is really singing at this stage. In the bouquet quite complex matured yellow fruits with notes of apple, hazelnuts and a buttery hint with a citrus twist. On the palate quite rich but fresh fruit, beautifully balanced by a fine acidity and the lovely minerality from the Genevriere vineyard. It’s quite long with a quite racy finish with a fresh citrus note. Indeed nice to have a non-oxed 1999 – this vintage really have a beautiful inner balance and harmoni. A beautiful wine … white wine of the evening.
The Meursault Blagny 1988 from Louis Jadot is slightly past it’s peak – but still very much drinkable. In the bouquet complex mature fruit notes with hints of coffee, butterscotch and honey. The oxidation is starting to show, with some notes of old belle de boskoop apples – not a big problem now, but it’s indicating – drink now. On the palate quite rich buttery fruit for a 1988, with a good fresh backbone acidity. Lovely balanced and quite elegant – a very good fully mature Burgundy.
The 1996 Beaune Clos des Ursules from Jadot is now entering a quite mature stage. The nose is very beautiful with sweet pinot notes, truffel, forrest floor and hints of the citrus note found in many red 1996 wines. On the palate still quite some grip from the tannins and the powerfull 1996 acidity backbone. The fruit red fruit is ripe and matured with a good balance, After some time in the glas the wine starts to open further and the sweet notes comes forward while the tannins are less prominent. Need 5 years more to unfold the full potential, but is already a beautiful mature pinot – but it’s a 1996 and the powerfull structure will always be there – so not a crowd pleaser!
The Batard-Montrachet 1995 is a wonderful mature white Burgundy. Very fine mature notes in the bouquet, still fresh but quite mature. On the palate very good minerality, great length and freshness, a very well balanced wine. A very fine core of ripe chardonnay fruit completes this very fine white Burgundy. The bouquet is more developed than the palate, and i’m sure it will continue to drink well in the years to come. But think I would prefer to drink the rest now, before the frehsness is gone.
(From 2011) Very Fine – 94p
Louis Jadot Cazetiers 1990 a nice mature Burgundy, with the typical spicy Jadot style. Vintage and terroir is a perfect match, and the wine is now approaching its optimum – it will probably keep another 10 years, but will hardly get better. One can hope the hot 1999 wines evolves towards the equilibrium that exists in some of the mature wines from 1990. Fine to very Fine. (now – 2020) – 92p
Beaune Coucheraux Grand Cru 1955 fro Louis Jadot. The wine was very developed, but still had some fruit and body, but it is in serious decline. Difficult to judge a wine like this, but it’s still hiding elements of greatness behind the oxidized bouquet.(Drink now) – 86p
The Chassagne Les Cailles 1989 is a fine effort from Jadot. I have tasted this wine a couple of times before – and I must say it was better a few years ago. It has lost some of it’s fruitiness and volume, and while it’s still a very nice wine, it lacks some freshness – but still fine. (Drink now) – 91p
Tasting and rating wine is not exact science … and therefore I prefer to use a scale that reflects that wine is a living organism and that a wine can taste like 94 points one day … and 93 the next day … depending on the moon, the glass, temperature and or my mood!
I therefore use my own rating system here at Winehog.org – a rating system inspired by some of the British wine reviewers but adapted to my view on the Burgundy wines.
The end of points
I have been using the 100 point scale for two decades, and the problems using this scale became more and more apparent during the work with winehog.org. It’s very hard .. or perhaps even impossible to truly consistent ratings with a scale like the 100 points scale.
I therefore changed to my own scale … but still translates my ratings to points … as a service to the readers who prefer the 100 point scale.
The potential is defined by the terroir
The quality or the potential of a wine is in my view defined by the terroir as the complexity and depth in the wine comes from the terroir – that’s the essence of Burgundy – and that’s why Burgundy is so interesting, intriguing and sometimes even frustrating.
It’s very important to note that only the very best terroirs can merrit a top rating. If we look at the best 1er crus – they can indeed rival a lot of the lesser grand cru wines, but it’s very rare to find a 1er cru that can merrit an outstanding rating. And while the best village wines can be fine, they are still village wines – and can almost never merrit a “very fine” rating.
Here is the winehog.org rating system:
- Very Fine
- Very Good
- Above Average
- Below Average
The winehog rating system – converted to points
As mentioned I have indeed used the 100 point scale for many years, and to me it feels natural but sadly also somewhat limiting for work. But as a service to the readers I normally convert the winehog rating to points or a point interval for the readers who prefer this system.
Winehog rating system with the point equivalence:
- Legendary – (99 – 100p)
- Extraordinary – (97 – 98p)
- Outstanding – (95 – 96p)
- Very Fine – (93 – 94p)
- Fine – (91 – 92p)
- Very Good – (88 – 90p)
- Good – (85 – 87p)
- Above Average – (80 – 84p)
- Average – (75 – 79p)
- Below Average – (70 – 74p)
- Poor – (50 – 69p)
… enjoy the wines … and forget the points and ratings!