In the Glass: Oldies but Goodies

One of the fine tastings this summer included a range of matured wines – from Moet Chandon 1959 via La Turque 1985 to Dominus 1994.

The tasting covered three continents, and vintages from 1959 to 1995 …. a quite unusual tasting with some very interesting wines … and a few somehat disappointing bottles.

The tasting included the following wines:

• Moet Chandon, Brut Imperiale 1959
• Chateau Trotanoy 1979
• Leroy, Leroy d’Auvernay Bourgogne 1971
• Chateau Angelus 1995
• Penfolds Bin707 1994
• Dominus 1994
• Guigal, La Turque 1985
• Pio Cesare, Barolo 1978

First out was the the Moet Chandon Brut Imperiale 1959 – a great mature champagne … only negative side … very weak mousse. Starting out slowly in the glass adding complexity over the first 20 minutes – holding well for three hours!! The nose was bursting with complexity .. coffee, orange and acacia with hints of freshly cut hay. On the palate quite crisp acidity and a rich fruit and a nice display of the chalky terroir. Love old Champagne … an outstanding experience.

Next was the Chateau Trotanoy 1979 – a lovely mature claret. Not a big wine – but classic – flawless and beautifully balanced. Love the balance between the tannins and the quite airy mature fruit. Old school Pomerol .. just lovely and very good.

Third wine was Leroy d’Auvernay Bourgogne 1971 – a quite extraordinary wine. The bouquet was very delicate with a fantastic complexity for this level – notes of orange, coffee, sous-bois, truffle and truffle peel. On the palate mature red pinot fruit – very fresh and juicy given the age – quite rich on the midpalate. but somewhat short. Not a big terroir wine – but delightful nevertheless.

Chateau Angelus 1995 was somewhat disappointing – big and dense – lacking refinement and focus. A much bigger wine than Trotanoy 1979 – but sometimes less is more – I certainly prefer the classic 1979 – still a very good glass of Bordeaux though.

Next wine the 1994 Penfolds Bin 707 …. at 20 Euro I would be disappointed by the lack of complexity and true expression – at 100 Euro … frankly awful.

The Dominus 1994 was quite interesting – firstly because it’s a lovely wine, secondly because it put some perspective on the Angelus 1995. They are both on the rich and opulent side – but I actually prefer the Dominus. The bouquet was classic with cassis and a lovely cedar touch. On the palate deep and intense fruit – long, complex and quite refined for a wine with so much weight. Perhaps more impressive than seductive – very fine indeed.

La Turque 1985 from Guigal was big, surprisingly dense and backward. The 1985 was the first vintage of La Turque – made from very young wines planted in 1981 – and on my palate the 85 is too extracted with a impressive concentration and weight but lacking some energy and vibrancy. It’s not a bad wine … it’s big and muscular – very fine and impressive … but not a wine to die for.

The Pio Cesare, Barolo 1978 was alive and kicking. Loved the balance and freshness – not a big wine though. The 78 vintage has produced some lovely Barolos.