Sips and Samples #6 – Madeira Galore

I’m not a Madeira expert, and I rarely drink Madeira of high quality. This weeks tasting was however very special, as we had several very good and very old Madeiras on the tasting program.

We had a total of six Madeiras, 5 was bottled before world war 2 by the Danish importer Schalburg, the last bottle was a Soleira 1922. The Scalburg bottles were all 0,375l, two was non vintage, one a vintage 1840, and lastly two soleiras from 1867 and 1870.

The wines were by far the best Madeiras I have tasted, and I would therefore like to share the experience here on winehog.org.

Two old Sercials

First out was two Schalburg bottled Cossard Gordon Sercials. Both the wines were most likely bottled in the 1920s or 1930s, and was 0,375l.

The first Crown Sercial was initially very impressive in the bouquet with the most wonderful butterscotch and caramel. On the palate good body and structure, but with a rather strong afterburner of acidity and caramel fruit. This wine developed quite quickly, and the bouquet was less interesting after 10 min in the glass. Still a very impressive and quite refined wine, but the rather harsh finish was a bit too much for my taste.

The Finest Old Sercial also from Cossard Gordon was quite closed initially but opened up after a short time in the glass. Very fine butterschotch, caramel and some orange notes. More refined and harmoniurs than the Crown Sercial, with a little more body and sweetness. The finish was long and refined without the strong afterburner of the Crown Sercial. Really a pleasure.

Bual from d’Oliveira

The third wine was a Bual 1922 d`Oliveira (0,75l). This Soleira was started in 1922, and the wine was bottled in 2003.

First impression was a bigger and sweeter wine than the two serciels, but while powerfull it lacked the focus and intensity of the two Cossard Gordon wines. The bouquet was very charming with some toffee and caramel notes, mixed with some PX notes. A bit too much alcohol in the nose for my taste. On the palate quite lush and sweet, but also rather unfocused. The fruit was however juicy and powerfull, but sadly not as refined as the other wines tasted.

The very old bottles

The three last wines were also Schalburg (0,375l) bottles, probably also bottled in the 1920s or 1930s.

Fist out was the Cama de Lobos 1870 Solera from Blandy. The nose was quite open with a fine caramel note. The palate was very creamy with a good intensity. Very refined but with a some metallic aromas, and a slightly flat finish.

The next Grand Old Boal 1864 Solera also from Blandy, was much better. Very juicy, refined with a lot of finesse and prower. The boquet was quite intense and refined with caramel, a slight orange note. On the palate very intense and refined aromas, very long and creamy while still very focused with a fine acidity.

The last wine was Madeira 1840 from Krohn. This was a fantastic wine, with a wonderful palance and more focus than the two Soleras from Blandy. In the bouquet very refined with layers of caramel notes. On the palate much like the two Blandy wines, but even more focused and therefore more refined. This wine is 172 years old … but still fresh, long, vibrant and refined … really a great bottle and a true pleasure.

Wines tasted 10/01/2012

• Crown Sercial, Cossard Gordon
• Finest old Sercial, Cossard Gordon
• Bual 1922, d`Oliveira
• Cama de Lobos 1870 Solera, Blandy
• Grand Old Boal 1864 Solera, Blandy
• Madeira 1840, Krohn