This week Robert Collins is flying low over the villages, vineyards and vintages of Burgundy.
BEST BGO IN TOWN!
A few years ago, I discovered a cellar outside of Lyon that was for sale, the owner had bought many bottles from Domaine Georges Mugneret in previous decades. One wine, vintage 1982, was a label I was not familiar with.
1982 GEORGES MUGNERET BOURGOGNE GRAND ORDINAIRE
“Georges Mugneret was a friend of mine
[and yours too, via the wine!]”
When your “G.O” [Grand Ordiniare, what a dumb classification name] beats others that offer Vosne premier cru or higher, you will find the path to enlightenment.
Not that it just rose above its caste, but it invalidated this feudal system.
Sans Coulottes arise, a wine for the call to the ramparts. The prince de Conti had a parcel up the path from here, but remember he died in exile, with no bottles of Burgundy wine available.
The Prince was bitter, I have read, but it is hard to sympathize. He never went to Vosne, or knew any of the characters that lived there. He would have never possessed a bottle so base, therefore exposing his fundamental misunderstanding of the country he lorded over. He left no valid tasting notes behind.
Pity he wasn’t born in my generation, where he could have availed himself of Dr. Georges wisdom. Nobility that takes its authenticity from the land, not thrones in Versailles. Then he would have drawn his tasting notes similar to mine:
Formidable fruit, from the moment of the first pour, develops a “Reas meets the Beau Mont” vitality. A little dusty, in a well travelled way, sunshine through the mist brightness, leaves you happy for 1982 and the circumstance that led Georges to keep this barrel separate. The true origins are lost to time. Ordinaire can have other grapes besides Pinot Noir, but I think that it is 100% . The estate owns no property not in classified lands except a plot of Bourgogne that was formerly classified as Vosne. So is it a declassed Bourgogne? [What a concept!]
There is a Bourgogne bottling in 1982. Whatever the reasoning, the result is appreciated beyond the constraints of classification.
The parting note, as good as the wine is, it’s experience is improved with the cheese in tandem. It is why I love Burgundy.
Bob
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