A First: Visit to PYCM – Tasting the 2021s

I had never visited Domaine Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey or Domaine Caroline Morey, so I was excited when I met Clement Colin, Pierre-Yves’ and Caroline’s son, and he offered me a tasting at the domaines in Chassagne-Montrachet.

Domaine Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey is a well-known white-wine-producing estate, while Caroline Morey produces both reds and whites to complete the picture.

This article will cover the 2021 wines from the PYCM estate made by the man himself and his sons.

History

Pierre-Yves Colin is the oldest son of St. Aubin’s Marc Colin, and is married to Caroline Morey of Chassagne’s prominent Morey family. In 2001 he started a negociant business under the name Colin-Morey before leaving his family estate to form what today is known as PYCM/Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey.

Aside from the PYCM estate, the family also runs Caroline Morey’s domaine (more about these wines in a separate article).

PYCM has rapidly gained a great reputation amongst Burgundy collectors by offering a large range of interesting terroirs, some from his own vineyards, others made from bought grapes.

The wines are known by their distinctive labels, consistently high quality, and – to some degree, at least in the past – a recognizable style with a quite strong reductive note.

But how are they now? Let’s find out!

It appears initially to me that the reductive note is reduced quite a bit, and today’s PYCM wines are both complex and agreeable. The 2021 wines show lovely balance.

Let’s taste!

Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Aligote 2021

The aligote is from the Chassagne area, although not in the village’s main vineyard. In tank now awaiting bottling, it’s intense and vivid, with a spicy character and good balance. This drinks well.

(Drink from 2027) – Good (87p) – Tasted 01/12/2022

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Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Bourgogne Chardonnay 2021

The white Bourgogne is showing rich, deep fruit, and is vivid and effortless with a delicate feel. Made in 350-litre barrels, it has nice spiciness, giving a good impression for the level. The 2021 is delightful.

(Drink from 2023) – Good (87p) – Tasted 01/12/2022 –

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Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Hautes Côtes de Beaune “Au Bout du Monde” 2021

There is a bit more mineral character here, but it’s also a bit cruder than the Bourgogne. This shows nice notes of Granny Smith apples and fennel; it’s delicate, with a semi-perfumed nose at the moment. Enjoyable, with an extroverted glow.

(Drink from 2027) – Very Good (88p) – Tasted 01/12/2022 –

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Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Saint-Aubin Le Bank 2021

A delightful Saint-Aubin showing crushed stone with a deep mineral core that is intense, harmonious, and hedonistic. It will be enjoyable in the near term, but will also keep. This is a signature wine, as it’s easily accessible on the Danish market (at least it was).

(Drink from 2027) – Very Good (90p) – Tasted 01/12/2022 –

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Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Saint-Aubin “Hommage a Marguerite” 2021

Fruit from Les Combes, Les Perriéres, and Les Criots combine for a generous (for the year) wine with lovely balance between limestone minerality and cool, albeit slightly unbalanced, fruit. From a big cuvee (7,000 bottles or so), this is a treat with its generosity. It’s fairly discreet, with a peachy attack and an enjoyable mid-palate.

(Drink from 2027) – Very Good (90p) – Tasted 01/12/2022 –

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Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Saint-Aubin Champlots 2021

This is a more serious Saint-Aubin from the back of Montrachet hill. Slightly darker in style, it is vividly expressive with quite a creamy texture. Somewhat reduced, with the lees coming into play, this will need time.

(Drink from 2030) – Very Good (89-90p) – Tasted 01/12/2022

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Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Saint-Aubin Chateniere 2021

The Chateniere is a delight, coming from a harmonious terroir with a silky character. This is juicy and elegant; I adore this wine in 2021, where the vintage interplays beautifully with the terroir. Put simply: a vin d’émotion.

(Drink from 2033) – Fine (92p) – Tasted 01/12/2022 –

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