A First: Visit to Domaine Caroline Morey – Tasting the 2021s

I had never visited Domaine Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey or Domaine Caroline Morey, so I was excited when I met Clement Colin, Pierre-Yves’ and Caroline’s son, and he offered me a tasting at the two Chassagne-Montrachet domaines.

Domaine Caroline Morey is the estate of – wait for it – Caroline Morey, Pierre-Yves’ wife. It produces both reds and whites to complete the picture partly drawn by PYCM.

This article covers the 2021 wines from Domaine Caroline Morey.

History

Caroline Morey inherited four hectares of vines in 2014 when her father, Jean-Marc Morey, divided his vineyards between her and her brother. Caroline got a few precious plots spread over the communes of Chassagne-Montrachet, Santenay, and Beaune. The first vintage of her eponymous domaine was that same year.

As said, she is married to Pierre-Yves Colin, the eldest son of St. Aubin’s Marc Colin. In 2001, Pierre-Yves started a negociant business under the name Colin-Morey before leaving his family estate to form what today is known as PYCM/Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey.

Currently, the family runs the two domaines more or less together, with both estates’ wines made in a new state-of-the-art facility in Chassagne.

Caroline Morey’s whites are quite similar in style to PYCM, yet the terroirs and, more importantly, the viticulture are different.

The main variation comes from the interesting reds, as Caroline Morey is the leader with these wines. And judging from their quality, she has a real talent in crafting red Santenays and Chassagnes. Let’s taste!

The whites

Caroline Morey Santenay Les Cornières 2021

Again, style-wise, Caroline’s whites resemble the PYCM line-up, as they are made by the same people. The Santenay Cornières is a breath of fresh air with its salinity and vivid structure. A bit robust structure-wise – after all, this is Santenay – but I love the style.

(Drink from 2023) – Very Good (89p) – Tasted 01/12/2022 –

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Caroline Morey Beaune Grèves Blanc 2021

I adore white Beaune for its silky texture and richness. A white Beaune Grèves is rare, and this is a true treat that has a seductive, silky texture and, for the ’21 vintage, impressive generosity. The fresh acidity and the terroir are a match made in heaven. Somewhat reduced, so give it several years in the cellar.

(Drink from 2027) – Very Fine (93p) – Tasted 01/12/2022 –

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Caroline Morey Chassagne-Montrachet 2021

A blend of what was left from the frost-ravaged 1ers crus Chaumees and Caillerets with some village lieux-dits, this is on the rich and slightly opulent side for a 2021. It is a hedonistic wine that perhaps lacks a bit of focus and mineral structure. But a joy it is.

(Drink from 2027) – Very Good (90p) – Tasted 01/12/2022

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Caroline Morey Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru 2021

After the April frost, Caroline decided to combine the 1ers crus Les Champs Gain and Les Vergers, and the blend offers mineral structure and vivacity. This is a delightful wine from an unusual combination of vineyards. But it shows the beauty of 2021 with its low-yield intensity and fresh, vivid acidity.

(Drink from 2027) – Very Good (90p) – Tasted 01/12/2022 –

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Caroline Morey Criots-Batard-Montrachet 2021

The Criots-Batard-Montrachet is a treat, and matches the PYCM Batard – well, almost. It’s deep and mineral, and fairly edgy with its low-yield intensity. Yet the weight can easily be carried by a vineyard like Criots, and the 2021 freshness makes this quite a unique proposition.

(Drink from 2031) – Outstanding (95-96p) – Tasted 01/12/2022 –

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The reds

Caroline Morey makes the reds herself (with some family help, of course), meaning she is the sole arbiter of their style.

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Caroline Morey Santenay 2021

Caroline normally makes her reds with a healthy share of whole-cluster grapes. This Santenay village, however, was fully destemmed in 2021 due to the difficult weather conditions and sub-optimal ripeness. This is nevertheless a gorgeous wine, with appealing strawberries on the nose. It seems highly digestible, and is an exciting and indulgent start to the reds.

(Drink from 2023) – Fine (88p) – Tasted 01/12/2022 –

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