The talented Mr Wolber!

I tasted the wines of Bastian Wolber for the first time in October 2022, and I already sensed back then that I was in the presence of a very promising vigneron.

I’m always cautious when proclaiming new or potentially new stars, as this has an inflationary tendency; not everyone can be a star. Far from it, sadly.

Bastian Wolber, however, is potentially a true star. Give him some top vineyards – please! – and he will delight your palate and treat your hedonistic addictions wholeheartedly.

It is still early, as he just started full-time with the 2022 vintage, having produced a “bit” of wine in the preceding three vintages.

However: Stand in line, and get some wine from Bastian Wolber before demand explodes!

<<< Please note my trusted editor has not been able to correct language errors and finer details in this article. I apologize for my misconduct and linguistic shortcomings >>>

Laisse Tomber

Bastian Wolber’s negociant business is called Laisse Tomber (meaning more or less “drop it,” but find your own interpretation). It reflects both humour and a willingness to challenge the world with new and exciting wines on Burgundy’s edge, that fascinating and challenging edge where great stuff is being made.

German origins

Bastian Wolber is, as his name suggests, originally from Germany. He was born in Staufen im Breisgau.

Bastian’s introduction to Burgundy came through his younger brother Christoph, who worked at some of the more prominent Burgundy estates. It was during Bastian’s visits to his brother in Burgundy that his passion for the region (and also the Jura) was born.

After doing harvests with Rudolph Trossen in the Mosel and Jean-Marc Dreyer in Alsace, Bastian found himself apprenticing at Ganevat in the Jura. Sadly, he broke his hand in a skateboard crash and had to leave Ganevat.

He returned to Germany and purchased organically farmed grapes from France and Germany, vinifying them at Wasenhaus at his brother Christoph’s estate, which he co-founded with Alexander Götze.

Bastian named his project “Laisse Tomber” – literally “let it fall,” a reference to the accident that started his winemaking adventure, instead of fulfilling his dream of working with Ganevat.

Laisse Tomber started out as a German project, first making wine in Baden. It has now expanded over the border to Burgundy, where Bastian found himself working for Jean-Yves Bizot, yet still expanding his production of wines made from bought organic or even biodynamic grapes from Burgundy, Alsace, and Germany.

His influences have been many, but to my palate, Jean-Yves Bizot has left a strong impression on Bastian Wolber, whose first full vintage, 2022, shows a talent finding its focus.

After sharing a cellar in Auxey-Duresses with Chris Santini (Santini Frères), Jonathan Purcell (Vin Noé), and Morgane Seuillot & Christian Knott (Domaine Dandelion) in 2020, Wolber has now moved to Volnay, where he has a small estate above Pousse d’Or.

The style: carbonic and semi-carbonic reds

I am always extra aware when I find new talents that have a background at Domaine Bizot in Vosne-Romanée, as Jean-Yves Bizot produces some of the greatest and most mind-boggling Burgundies today. In more technical terms, these whole-cluster wines are made with semi-carbonic or even fully carbonic vinification depending on the duration of the carbonic process.

The vinification starts with a cool initial intracellular (inside-the-berry) fermentation controlled by temperature and added carbon dioxide, followed by a gradual crushing of the grapes over the ensuing days, normally using the feet.

This intracellular process releases special aromas, from floral components of roses to spicy aromas of allspice and cinnamon. On the palate, one gets a greater silkiness of texture, a lush yet vivid representation of the exuberant fruit.

Some like it; I adore it!

Tasting the 2022s on April 2

This is the framework for Bastian Wolber’s reds, and while the terroirs are relatively modest, the potential here for joy and hedonistic sensations is vast.

I hate to repeat myself; these wines could well become both expensive and hard to find, as have Nicolas Faure’s and other talents that produce vins d’emotion from even modest terroirs.

The gamays

We started out with the gamays, and they are the surprise of the bunch, as they have developed both focus and a hedonistic spark since I first tasted them in the fall of 2022.

The regular gamay – from a 100-year-old vineyard in the southern Beaujolais on granitic soil – is a vin de soif if there ever was one.

And then we have the gamay/pinot noir blend (passetoutgrain), with the gamay also from a century-old vineyard on granite. The pinot in the blend is from the Côte Couchois, and is also on granite.

Blasting in the Beaujolais gamay and the Passetoutgrain sets the scene like a Lapierre creation; perhaps a bit more civilized, but having the same nerve and tension as those masterpieces.

(Yes; I find Lapierre Beaujolais utterly hedonistic if they are able to play, meaning the volatile acidity is kept under reasonable control and – especially – the reduction is not out of hand. These are made for drinking and enjoyment, not for wine auctions and speculation.)

Only time will tell, but I feel that Laisse Tomber is a bit more on controlled ground, German ground if you like, and therefore less prone to challenge your palate in a negative way.

I can tolerate, and even enjoy, a controlled amount of VA, but I’m more sensitive to the reductive notes that quite often plague gamays from the south. I have reasons to believe that Bastian’s immaculate work will keep this under control.

The gamays, including the Passetoutgrain, will be bottled later this spring, offering hedonistic drinking for those who love these vivid wines.

The gamay from Flagey-Echézeaux is quite a bit more intense, but still with the vivid energy that makes gamay exciting and lively. The limestone soil gives it a bit of extra oompf. It’s better than the Beaujolais, yes, but those gamays do it so well also.

The pinots

The Barden wine from German pinot clones showed very well, although the Corgoloin wine outclasses it. The same can be said about the Côte Chalonnaise (Vallee des Veaux) behind Mercurey: it’s good, but somehow lacks the vivacity of the other French pinots. Let’s see what elevage produces.

I find more vivacity in the Mâconnais plots that contain both granite and limestone soils. These wines are still at the blending stage, but their lovely potential is definitely visible.

The Volnay village from Les Grand Champs is showing fine progress during elevage, but will definitely gain weight and focus as it ages further.

The Hautes Côte de Beaune Montbatois also shows fine potential. It’s lively and energetic, and farther along in its elevage than the Volnay. The Savigny-les-Beaune Dessus Les Vermots needs to settle down during further elevage, but all the elements are there.

The best wines are undoubtedly the pair of Côte de Nuits villages: En la Place from a very old vineyard (80-90 years), and Le Clos de Magny high on the slope in Corgoloin.

These are magnificently juicy wines in Bastian’s hands. They have gained weight and richness over the last five months, and they will benefit from the focus given by further elevage. They have such energy and purity of fruit that I am bewildered and somewhat stunned by the quality of this “new” producer.

More notes will follow when the wines get some further barrel age. While one can sense and appreciate the potential at this stage, tasting notes now would be guesswork. I will return to these wines later in 2023.

Flavour of the Year: great promise

These are still early days, but I have decided to award Bastian Wolber the 2023 Winehog Flavour of the Year title.

The gamays are nearly ready to hit the cellars (including mine), and the rest of the wines show the same potential. This is indeed an exciting journey.

What a fabulous vigneron.