Visit to a New Name: Hadrien Bissaud – Tasting the 2021s and 2022s

What is a new name? I think Hadrien Bissaud must qualify in every way: He’s a new winemaker coming from the insurance business.

The link to the wine business nonetheless exists, as his family (back in the day) had an estate in Ladoix-Serrigny, with large vineyard holdings which they kept and rented out when the domaine was sold in the 1980s.

Currently, there’s not a strong link to this past. The future, however, will bring opportunities to take back some of the old vineyards from fermage.

Hadrien began his wine endeavour with the difficult 2021 vintage, and has continued with the ample, generous 2022s.

So two very different vintages for a newcomer: the 2021s more cool and classic, and the ’22s richer and very much yielding joy, pleasure, and hedonistic emotions.

Confining these two vintages – and few wines – to a single style has been an impossible task for Hadrien Bissaud, but the two years have allowed him to demonstrate his talent and his ability to produce interesting wines.

I shall not predict his style, although I hope the Puligny-Montrachet 2022 is an indicator (it’s that good). But the inclusion of whole clusters in the future reds is more uncertain. My guess would be some, and hopefully more than some.

The market should allow all new vignerons the time to test, adapt, and use a few years to define their style. With the financial necessities of expensive vineyards, this is not always easy, but nevertheless it cannot be pushed. It took guys like Henri Jayer decades to find and optimise a style.

So take the following as first impressions:

Hadrien Bissaud Aligoté Cuvée Auguste 2021

The 2021 Aligoté is a fine, classic aligoté from Magny-les-Villers; the lieu-dit (Corvée Jean Brun) is known to most collectors of this pristine variety (or perhaps not). It’s quite an intense, linear wine, and with food, is really elegant. It stands in sharp contrast to the recently bottled 2022.

(Drink from 2023) – Very Good – (87-88p) – Tasted 29/06/2023 –

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Hadrien Bissaud Aligoté Cuvée Auguste 2022

The 2022 is has loads of energy currently. I love the vivacity in this version, and some light reduction adds to the freshness. There’s a slightly sweeter note in the ’22, and this works well for me. It’s a hedonistic glass; there’s no need for an intellectual exercise here.

(Drink from 2027) – Very Good – (87-88p) – Tasted 29/06/2023 –

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Hadrien Bissaud Côte de Brouilly La Côte 2021

The 2021 Côte de Brouilly is a leaner, cooler wine with 30% whole clusters included despite the difficult year, with unripe stems and other challenges. This is quite delicate and elegant, actually with lovely fruit. Quite impressive for 2021.

(Drink from now) – Good – (87p) – Tasted 29/06/2023

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