Visit to Domaine Gérard Mugneret – Tasting the 2022s

We’re now well into October, and the second part of the 2022 wine-tasting season can begin. My first stop on the tour is Domaine Gérard Mugneret, a visit I have been looking forward to for some time.

Pascal Mugneret, Gérard’s son, runs the estate, and is a friendly chap with an open mind who uses reflective vinification techniques that have been developed successively over the years.

I have tasted quite a few wines from Pascal, and have the impression that they have become more and more refined over the years. This is, however, just an impression. I will start from scratch, with a clean notepad and an open mind.

Domaine Gérard Mugneret in short

Domaine Mugneret was founded by Eugène and his son René Mugneret. Eugène acquired the first vines, while René was the first in the family to start tending them.

René and his wife Lucienne had three children: Jean (1938-2010), Jacqueline (b. 1946), and Gérard (b. 1948). Gérard began making wine on his own in 1973, but a portion of the domaine’s production used René’s labels until 1986, and the estate was expanded with the addition of new parcels (notably Savigny-les-Beaune Les Gravains and Chambolle-Musigny Les Charmes).

Pascal Mugneret, whose first vinification was in 2005, is the current winemaker and owner. From the domaine’s web site:

“Pascal grew up in the midst of the vines and cellar. After studying subjects unrelated to vines or wine (with a technical degree in measurements and physics from Reims, plus studies at the School of Material Engineering in Dijon), he worked in manufacturing (as a production manager and chief of project productivity) before he felt the urge to return to his origins. In early 2004 he enrolled at the CFPPA of Beaune, then interned in the vineyards and cellar of Domaine Jacques Girardin in Santenay.”

Organic, with biodynamic preparations

Herbicides were abandoned as early as 2006, and today biodynamic preparations are considered or used. The work in both vines and cellar is planned according to the lunar calendar.

Tasting the 2022s

Domaine Gérard Mugneret Poupre 2022

Quite light, open, and vivid, this is delicate and includes 60% gamay while being vinified with 100% whole clusters. With tremendous liveliness and joy, the old vines give a natural generosity. This is a beautiful wine, with plenty of hedonistic stuffing.

(Drink From 2024) – Good (86p) – Tasted 12/10/2023 –

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Domaine Gérard Mugneret Bourgogne Pinot Noir 2022

Pascal Mugneret produces two Bourgogne rouges; this is the lighter and more hedonistic one. It’s delicate and open, although a bit tight having just been racked. As with many of the wines, 100% whole-cluster vinification. A true vin de soif; I adore it.

(Drink From 2024) – Good (87p) – Tasted 12/10/2023 –

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Domaine Gérard Mugneret Bourgogne Les Rouges Champs 2022

From 60-year-old vines below the Clos de Vougeot, this is deeper and more intense than the regular Bourgogne rouge. Slightly reduced currently, it has good focus, but is not showing the same hedonistic glory as its younger brother above.

(Drink From 2024) – Good (87p) – Tasted 12/10/2023 –

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Domaine Gérard Mugneret Savigny-les-Beaune Aux Gravains 2022

The Savigny uses 80% whole clusters, and is rich and vivid with a generous, expansive mid-palate. The well-focused red fruit is delicate, and with only 30% new oak, this has a lovely hedonistic feel.

(Drink From 2030) – Very Good (89p) – Tasted 12/10/2023 –

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Domaine Gérard Mugneret Gevrey-Chambertin Les Murots 2022

Quite some reduction here, and quite tight in the finish. That said, this has a sweet generosity and fairly deep mid-palate. It comes from the bottom part of Gevrey on the east side of the road. While it has nice generosity, it’s a bit difficult to taste at the moment.

(Drink From 2030) – Fine (89p) – Tasted 12/10/2023

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Domaine Gérard Mugneret Vosne-Romanée Cuvée Quatrain 2022

Since 2016 Pascal has produced several different village wines from Vosne. The first is the north/south cuvee, including terroirs Les Ormes and Les Jalandins in the north and Reas and Jaquines in the south of the appellation. This is an open, expressive wine due to the Flagey vines; enjoyable and hedonistic. One could say it lacks complexity and depth, but it instead has other qualities. I do like this wine, and it invokes lovely emotions.

(Drink From 2031) – Very Good (90p) – Tasted 12/10/2023 –

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Domaine Gérard Mugneret Vosne-Romanée Aux Vigneux 2022

This is a darker, deeper, and more defined; it is currently serious, and not as expressive as the two other villages. Extracted a bit more forcefully perhaps, there is nonetheless a clear, vivid greeting from Vosne. Vines from the 1950s yield an interesting wine that needs both time and reflection.

(Drink From 2034) – Very Good (89p) – Tasted 12/10/2023 –

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Domaine Gérard Mugneret Vosne-Romanée Cuvée Précolombière 2022

This is an expressive village, vivid, with a delicate, open style. I love the flamboyant display of fruit combined with the complexity, which is tremendous for this level. A hedonistic treat.

(Drink From 2034) – Fine (91-92p) – Tasted 12/10/2023 –

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