A new name in Vosne – Paul Tollot-Gros

During my visit to Vosne-Romanée, I became aware of changes brewing at one of the family estates.

This is normal, and happens in the best of families. New generations need to try their wings to see if they can continue producing good wines and, most importantly, position them on the market given the context of other family products.

I am, of course, talking about the Anne Gros estate, where son Paul Tollot-Gros began producing wines in 2022 under his own name. The label and branding will be finalised later, perhaps in the spring of 2024.

The Gros family heritage

The Gros family has long planned how the vineyards should be distributed among the members of this large, legendary, fixture in Vosne-Romanée. Planning the division of plots and vineyards is an extremely complex process. Regardless of what each individual wants, not all can have the core plots of the big grands crus.

Not all the estate’s vines are changing hands. But it’s clear that the latest movement of vineyards among parts of the Gros family have been arranged so as to prepare for the next generation. Domaine Anne Gros in 2019 prepared structural changes that divided the vineyards among the three children.

As mentioned, this is complex stuff. It is sensitive as well, so all the more reason to take the process slowly and calmly.

What we know

We know that Paul made three wines in 2022 from the family vineyards: a Bourgogne Rouge, a Vosne-Romanée village, and an Echezeaux from the Beaux Monts Bas section, at the very top of the appellation.

The wines could fit into the Anne Gros line-up, but the aim is different, and it’s clear that Paul has been given the opportunity to develop the wines following his ideas and palate.

They are somewhat on the darker side, slightly more extracted (not much), and with a bit more edge and aromatic profile. They are not huge steps away from the Anne Gros style, but nevertheless, some things are done differently, resulting in a different aromatic profile.

The wines

The three 2022s are currently in barrel, and will be bottled in the spring.

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Paul Tollot-Gros Bourgogne Rouge 2022

This wine sets the scene. It’s intense, with darker fruit; still a vin de soif, however less so than the Anne Gros version. This has been extracted a bit harder, hence a bit more tannins to face. While it is a relatively small adjustment, it has meaning, as it gives the wine a different expression from the classical red-fruit style of Domaine Anne Gros that we (I, at least) love so much.

(Drink from 2024) – Very Good (87 p)- Tasted 30/11/2023 –

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Paul Tollot-Gros Vosne-Romanée Aux Communes 2022

This is a vivid, spicy, saline, and intense Vosne village. While not as mineral as the Barroux from Domaine Anne Gros, it is somewhat denser and more intense. I tasted it after Barroux, which didn’t really help show the qualities of Aux Communes. Still, it showed me that Communes can stand on the table among the best villages from Vosne-Romanée.

(Drink from 2032) – Very Good (90p)- Tasted 30/11/2023 –

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Paul Tollot-Gros Echezeaux Beaux–Monts Bas 2022

The Echezeaux Beaux-Monts Bas is a bigger, more substantial wine than the Anne Gros version. The terroir appears more vivid and mineral, and the darker expression gives it a delicate, playful exchange between red and dark fruit. This is a delightful Echezeaux, and better than the maternal version in my view. Profound, and with 30% whole clusters, it is mounting its challenge.

(Drink from 2034) – Very Fine (94 p)- Tasted 30/11/2023 –