Visit to Domaine Génot-Boulanger – Tasting the White 2022s

This is a new domaine for me, and therefore I prefer to focus on its style and quality rather than on the individual wines. I will attempt to do both to a degree, but as a new format, I think this is possibly more in tune with our busy world: starting wider and then zooming in.

Domaine Génot-Boulanger

Domaine Génot-Boulanger was founded in 1974 by Charles-Henri and Marie Génot-Boulanger. It is just across the road from Dominique Lafon and his impressive property, and has been living a quiet life under the ownership of the Génot-Boulanger family.

Today it is Aude et Guillaume Lavollée who run the estate. Aude is the founders’ granddaughter.

The wines have been organically certified since 2018, so quality is definitely improving.

Génot-Boulanger’s wines

The domaine is making good reds and whites. For me, the whites are more interesting, as their terroirs pack a bit more punch. The reds are good, but just lack a bit of edge and excitement, again perhaps due to the more modest terroirs.

The whites are made with fairly hard pressing, meaning the wines have an edgier character. This is presumably why Génot-Boulanger can work without Diam corks or exorbitant loads of sulphur, as the anti-oxidant effect of the hard pressing (more lees) helps protect the wines.

The whites have a vivid, slightly edgy taste that works for me. But one won’t find the silky notes you get in a Lafon wine.

The reds are on the more discreet side, not very flamboyant, and with the extraction in some cases taken to the limit (but fortunately not beyond). Sexy? Not always. But nonetheless good wines you can trust and enjoy.

As always, let the heart ratings guide you.

Tasting notes in a more efficient way

I write and read a lot, and sometimes there’s not much to say about a wine aside from, “It’s good.” But this sentiment is covered by the points and the hearts. So instead of writing a dissertation that will give you very little, I will try to be more efficient and focus on the more exciting terroirs and wines.

It should be more efficient, but we shall see.

To the white tasting notes

As stated above, the Génot-Boulanger whites are on the powerful side, meaning the lees are evident (thanks to the hard pressing), allowing it to use natural corks and only a moderate level of sulphur.

With the robust pressing, the wines are quite structured and somewhat bony in their youth. This is not an issue, but don’t expect silky, exotic chardonnays from day one. Just sayin’.

The wines were tasted on November 8.

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Domaine Génot-Boulanger Beaune En Lulunne 2022

The Beaune La Lulunne is from the top of Beaune Greves. The style is pretty clear here, with plenty of impact from the lees and the substantial press. Character and intensity give this mineral Beaune quite a substantial presence. The sulphur is moderate, showing the house style. It will need some time to unfold completely.

(Drink from 2026) – Very Good (88p) –

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Domaine Génot-Boulanger Savigny-les-Beaune Vieilles Vignes 2022

From the terroirs Les Saucours, Les Gollardes, and Les Goudelettes. Quite reduced, and with a strong lees impression, the old vines give this a rich, slightly bony character. It is a delightful, classical Savigny with a clear saline expression. I really love this.

(Drink from 2030) – Very Good (89p) –

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Domaine Génot-Boulanger Meursault Clos du Cromin 2022

From a large parcel in the clos (1.42 hectares) located on the northern side of Meursault, the somewhat edgy style adds structure and intensity to this classical Meursault. Give it time.

(Drink from 2030) – Very Good (89p) –

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Domaine Génot-Boulanger Puligny-Montrachet Les Nosroyes 2022

Another large plot – 1.13 ha – gives lots of vinification options. The parcel is located below Perrieres, and produces a gorgeous wine with sharp minerality that shows refinement and complexity. The lees work very well with the Puligny minerals, giving an elegant result with an effortless display of terroir.

(Drink from 2030) – Very Good+ (91p) –

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