Nicolas Faure made a few vintages before his style and quality were in place … Henri Jayer spent years and even decades perfecting the style. Valéria is not Jayer or Faure … just to recognize that even for the greatest things takes time …
Things take time … hitting the expression and the right vintage to have liftoff. Now a very good friend rediscovered Valéria Naudin for me …
The Wild Thing and the sensation
“This is what I wrote in April 2021 …”
A new producer, and a new wine from a fine but somewhat overlooked vineyard in the northern part of Nuits-Saint-Georges: This is Burgundy!
Let’s start with the estate – Maison Valéria Naudin, whose first vintage was 2020.
The estate was located in the Château de Bligny-les-Beaune, a custom-crush facility used by a number of talented vignerons. This is the place to rent good facilities if you have limited production and/or are an exciting start-up. I have visited this facility several times, and have found exciting and fine new wines. So too this time.
The name is Valéria Naudin
Valéria Naudin has just started her business, although she has worked in wine for many years. Valéria has worked the vinification at Domaine Michel Mallard in Ladoix for the last seven years, gaining the experience and knowledge needed to take the final jump and become a wine producer herself in 2020.
The first vineyard
Maison Valéria Naudin started out with one appellation in the 2020 vintage, and with an ambition to increase the size of the estate in 2021 and beyond.
The first vineyard is Nuits-Saint-Georges La Petite Charmotte, for some a rather unknown name.
It’s a vineyard located just north of the town of Nuits – i.e. on the Vosne side.
In total, the vineyard is 4.2331 ha, and few produce it as a separate lieu-dit. It is mostly blended into NSG village cuvées, as is usual in both NSG and Vosne-Romanée.
La Petite Charmotte is just north of La Charmotte and below the 1er cru Bousselots, an area with refined, mineral vineyards. This is certainly an area of focus by a number of new and expanding estates. Mark my words: These are interesting vineyards.
The plot providing the grapes is organically farmed and certified (AB), hence offering very fine quality and a good acidic backbone, something noticeable in the 2020 tasted below.
The first wine…
Maison Valéria Naudin Nuits-Saint-Georges La Petite Charmotte 2020
La Petite Charmotte is a balanced, forwardly fruity effort. The good, relatively structured fruit has a fine and quite delicate balance between extraction and extroverted charm and fruitiness. The 80% whole-cluster usage is well integrated. There are lovely notes of red and dark fruits, and hints of peony, rose and violets, along with a slight tone of rhubarb. The oak is nicely balanced, although it is noticeable currently. Nice cellaring potential, although perhaps hiding a bit of its purely hedonistic qualities at the moment.
(Drink before 2030) – Very Good – (88–89p) – tasted 09/04/2021
A fine start for Valéria Naudin, with a wine of high quality in her first effort. This is drinking very well.
And now it unfolds
Two years down the line … another vintage … and perhaps the dosage of the oak is more suitable for a wine at this level.
Maison Valéria Naudin Nuits-Saint-Georges La Petite Charmotte 2022
La Petite Charmotte 2022 is vivid and lively … and without the slight sweet sensation or nuisance of the vintage. This is a balanced, forwardly fruity effort – just unfolding beautifully. It still has a delicate balance between extraction and extroverted charm and fruitiness. There are delightful notes of red and dark fruits, and hints of peony, rose, and violets. This is a refined effort, not some Hill-Billy wine made in a garage. And then to the key … with the 2022 the oak is perfectly balanced and suits the 2022 vintage perfectly (even the 2023). Now it is truly hedonistic and unfolds the Mallard-styled oak perfectly … 2022 is also a great vintage for Domaine d`Éugenie! Lets face it Petite Charmotte is a wonderful terroir … this is a beautiful wine!
(Drink before 2032) – Very Good – (90-91p) – tasted 19/10/2024 –
Bravo Valéria
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