The 2018 vintage is mysterious, and more complex than any recent vintage. It is not a vintage that will conform to foregone conclusions: The truth is, as always, in the glass, and not all 2018s are pretty. As always, the ratings here are personal - i.e. there is only Steen Öhman, aka the …
Burgundy
Domaine Roulot Meursault Charmes 2007
The Meursault Charmes 2007 from Roulot is still a vivid baby: intense, vivacious, and with a strong backbone of acidity. It is classic 2007 and classic Roulot, and needs five more years in the cellar. But is starting to show some mature notes; it has deep yellow fruit with hints of honey and …
Comte Lafon Meursault Charmes 2001
The Lafon Charmes 2001 is not one of my best friends; I have tasted at least three premoxed versions of this wine. This bottle, however, is a delight, and shows the best of form - vivid and fresh. Classic Lafon intensity, although quite airy, and with a maturing, nutty note. Showing very well, and …
Comte Lafon Meursault Genevrieres 1989
The Meursault Genevrieres 1989 is a rare bird, but a still-delightful glass. As a vintage, 1989 was a rich, somewhat dense year. But the Genevrieres is still fresh and lively. It has an unctuous, silky character rarely found in white Burgundies - generous and complex with distinct mature notes and …
Comte Lafon Meursault Goutte d’Or 1988
The '88 Meursault Goutte d'Or is perfectly mature and in balance. I have tasted quite a few 1988s from Lafon, and while some have been bigger, this Goutte d'Or has perfect hedonistic balance and depth. A gorgeous, mature wine with intense notes of hazelnuts, acacia honey, and a hint of hay. …