Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair – The 2022s Revisited

One of my most exciting tastings so far this year is the 2022s from Comte Liger-Belair, as it includes a number of new wines from the expansion of this already fabulous estate.

With the ’22 vintage, Louis-Michel Liger-Belair got new plots in Grands Echezeaux, Vosne-Romanée Les Malconsorts, La Croix Rameau, and Aux Reas. Furthermore, he added to his existing plots in Clos Vougeot, Echezeaux, and Vosne-Romanée Les Suchots.

New plots = tremendous possibilities

Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair took over the new vineyards from the estate of Nathalie Pacareau (formerly a part of Lamarche), who decided to lease her vines to Louis-Michel.

The vineyards are prominent, even for Vosne. The Grands Echezeaux parcel is 0.30 hectare and is located in the middle of the vineyard just above the Clos de Vougeot. The Vosne-Romanée Malconsorts consists of two plots in the southern end totalling just short of 0.50 ha. The Vosne La Croix Rameau is in the southern, upper part of the vineyard, encompassing 0.21 ha just below Romanée Saint-Vivant. Finally, the Aux Reas is in the southern part of the village.

As well, Liger-Belair got extra plots in Echezeaux, Clos Vougeot, and Vosne Suchots to complement his existing holdings in those vineyards.

Two of the vineyards produce wines that are new to the estate: Grands Echezeaux and La Croix Rameau. Malconsorts was part of the domaine’s patrimony before it was auctioned off in 1933 (not these parcels; others from this climat), so this is a welcome return of the wine to the Liger-Belair portfolio.

The biodynamic conversion of the vineyards has already begun, and Louis-Michel Liger-Belair will then evaluate how the new plots fit into his existing portfolio of wines and cuvees. 

A bit about hedonism and Liger-Belair

Hedonistic indulgence and joy have become my mantra after a long, philosophical discussion at a small house in Vosne-Romanée. This has caused some important, and in some cases quite dramatic, re-evaluations of many producers whose wines I have tasted over the years.

The question is really simple: Does the wine and the producer provide hedonistic joy and energy, or even create a true vin d’emotion? 

It did not take long for me to determine that Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair’s wines do bring me joy, hedonistic pleasure, and tremendous indulgence. They have a certain ability to thrill and seduce me – often followed by the urge to open another bottle to share with my friends. 

The best wines from this estate are sinfully decadent, and in some cases, almost mythically delicate, with special tension and energy. They are the archetypal vins d’emotion.

Yes, they have a distinctive style, like all good wines. And yes, they have a strong resemblance to the essence of the great Henri Jayer’s wines, although, in my opinion, while the gratification is in the same league, the Liger-Belair wines on average take the hedonistic thrill to even higher levels.

The key is biodynamics.

Biodynamics and the new wines

Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair is biodynamically farmed; the vineyards have been converted for years now. The process began in 2008 and was completed in 2012. Alongside the process, new vineyards have been added and gradually converted to biodynamics. The estate has been certified biodynamic by Ecocert since 2012 under the Biodyvin label.

The new vineyards are already in the conversion process, but it will take some years before the full benefits of biodynamic methods are realised.

Previously, it would take seven to ten years before biodynamism’s full benefits were realised. But with the experience of the last decade, Louis-Michel expects to have the process implemented in five years in the new parcels.

This means that some wines – the new ones – will initially lack the traits of biodynamic viticulture. Especially at the beginning, they will lack the depth and energy found in a fully biodynamic Liger-Belair wine.

Read about “The effect of biodynamics” at Domaine du Comte Liger–Belair.

But let’s see the results, which are key to tasting the new wines from the 2022 vintage.

The 2022s from Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair

For the record, Louis-Michel Liger-Belair uses 100% new oak for all wines except the white, for which the share is around 30%. The grapes are usually destemmed, but whole clusters will sometimes be used in specific cuvees. All wines were tasted from barrel.

Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair Nuits-Saint-Georges Clos des Grandes Vignes Blanc 2022

An interesting white, not exactly bursting with acidity, but this has gained focus and tension since the tasting in May. It’s rather rich and intense, and is now well-balanced and vivid. Much better than in May.

(Drink from 2024) – Fine (90-92p) – Tasted 22/11/2023 –

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Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair Nuits-Saint-Georges 2022

This Nuits village is made from young vines in the Clos des Grandes Vignes. It’s lively and quite forward, and while not very complex, it will do. I quite like this cuvee for its in-your-face approach.

(Drink from 2028) – Very Fine (88p) – Tasted 04/05/2023 – 

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Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair Vosne-Romanée 2022

It’s not every year I taste the regular Vosne-Romanée village, which comes from numerous plots scattered around Vosne. It will not blow your skirts off, or even up, but it will give you a good introduction to the estate style. Since May, it has gained focus and liveliness. A lovely introductory Vosne, and if your banker likes you a lot, this is a delightful vin de soif.

(Drink from 2030) – Very Fine (89p) – Tasted 22/11/2023 – 

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Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair Vosne-Romanée La Colombiere 2022

The Vosne Colombiere is really showing its class in recent vintages. Some choose this, while others prefer the Clos du Chateau. This is deeper and darker, intense, and elegant, with vivid lift. Clearly a more serious wine than the flamboyant Clos du Chateau, I am not surprised, given its origins in pinot droit.

(Drink from 2031) – Fine+ (90-91p) – Tasted 22/11/2023 – 

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Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair Vosne-Romanée Aux Reas 2022

The Vosne Aux Reas comes from the Pacareau vines. This has gained some of Liger-Belair’s characteristics since May. The oak is well integrated and the fruitiness is blossoming. That said, this needs some years of biodynamic viticulture to pull out all the stops.

(Drink from 2033) – Very Fine (90-91p) – Tasted 22/11/2023 – 

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Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair Vosne-Romanée Clos du Chateau 2022

The Clos du Chateau is always a vin d’emotion in my book. The vivid, cinnamon nose is very expressive: an explosion of red fruit and Vosne spices. It is, as usual, light-footed, but also intense and expressive. A sexy Clos du Chateau, and a vin d’émotion defined.

(Drink from 2030) – Fine+ (92p) – Tasted 22/11/2023 – 

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Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair Vosne-Romanée Les Chaumes 2022

Delicately but deeply fruited, light-footed, and with elegant oak integration, this is quite intense, with fine acidity. This really does show the hedonistic treasures of biodynamic viticulture.

(Drink from 2033) – Very Fine (93p) – Tasted 04/05/2023 – 

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Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair Nuits-St-Georges Clos des Grandes Vignes 2022

The Clos des Grandes Vignes 2022 is back to more normal yields. While quite spicy and intense, the higher ’22 yields lead to a more relaxed wine. It is debatable whether very low yields really express the terroir better; I for one am not so sure. This wine, however, shows one of the finer terroirs of Premeaux in all its beauty. It seems like this cuvee is now finding its place in the range by not trying to be an estate flagship or a core wine that displays style and power. This is an elegant vineyard; not really a powerhouse.

(Drink from 2034) – Very Fine (92-93p) – Tasted 22/11/2023 – 

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