Visit to Domaine Sylvain Dussort – Tasting the 2023s

I like the wines from Domaine Sylvain Dussort, and the 2023s are really showing well. Anne-Caroline is gradually taking over the estate with some backing from her father.

She is a tough lady, and she is making very good wines …. always a treat to visit at this estate located on the other side of the riad from Coche-Dury.

The Dussort estate

Domaine Sylvain Dussort is performing a generational switch, with Anne-Caroline taking over from Sylvain, who has reigned since 1982 at the prominent Meursault address of 12 rue Charles Giraud, just opposite Coche-Dury.

Anne-Caroline has worked in the wine business on the sales side (amongst others) in New York, and therefore brings a fresh, international view to the estate.

The wines at Dussort are very good, made in a more traditional style (What, by the way, is traditional these days?). That said, I would not call them old school, as they have great character and depth, and a certain density.

The Dussort wines have a solid identity and substantial mid-palate stance. They are not flabby or excessively silky and rich, and they show a qualitative note of reduction that contributes to good balance.

The flagship is the Bourgogne blanc

Sylvain Dussort fought hard to have the appellation Bourgogne Côte d’Or established. He considers this cuvee his estate’s flagship wine; it’s certainly the largest, with almost 10,000 bottles produced.

The attention to making great regional wine is clear, and tasting the Bourgogne Côte d’Or is a treat. It shows that not all Burgundies have to be packed with reduction in order to express fruit on a different level from other generic Burgundies.

The estate does produce other wines that objectively are greater: its Meursault Vieilles Vignes and Meursault Limozin both have more ageing potential and are indeed wines of character.

The domaine produces four whites and two reds.

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Domaine Sylvain Dussort Aligote 2023

The 2023 Aligote is vivid, lively, and fresh. Lovely saline notes … lovely fruit with a hint of oak … 20% new oaks does tighten up the thing – not bad at all.

(Drink from 2026) – Very Good – (87-88p) –

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Domaine Sylvain Dussort Bourgogne Cuvée des Ormes 2023

This is the domaine’s flagship wine, following Sylvain Dussort’s advocacy for the Bourgogne Côte d’Or appellation. It comes from plots in En l’Ormeau, Les Pellans, Les Malpoiriers, and Les Dressolles. The ’23 is a good powerhouse … a bit fresher than the 2022 and the 2020. Quite a treat with fish and chips … Bottled under Diam 10.

(Drink from 2026) – Very Good – (88p) –

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