Joie de vivre … the restaurants

I don’t hunt the amazement of perfection in a restaurant … I have been there, and I am too spoiled, too experienced and too full of impressions to seek these three-star experiences.

Ultimately, I want to enjoy the overall experience: the place, the host and the chef … feeling welcomed and a genuine wish to make me feel hedonistically enjoyed … creating and delivering true joie de vivre – joy of living.

“Joie de vivre” is a beautiful French phrase often used to express a cheerful enjoyment of life, an exultation of spirit, and general happiness.

This is what I want. What I don’t want is 30 waiters interrupting my evening with 20 different exotic and fantastical dishes.

I have eaten in many great and fantastic restaurants … Noma and Geranium in Copenhagen, Georges Blanc in Vonnas, Taillevant in Paris, Gordon Ramsay in Royal Hospital Road… Daniels in NY …

I was impressed and astonished by the precision and the level of quality and creativity – but rarely do I get a true feeling of joie de vivre when eating with the most acclaimed chefs … sadly … and only the very best can keep the tension throughout 20 servings.

I am a wine critic and not a culinary expert … I visit restaurants to enjoy and have emotional and hedonistic pleasure and joy … I want to be enthrilled and seduced … not impressed and amazed.

This is what I want from life, and this is also what I want from a restaurant …

To encompass this dimension, I have created a new scale – joie de vivre – the joy of being there … the positive emotions – the limbic memory that lingers long after visiting the bar and the restaurant.

No bashing … only acclaim

As I’m not an expert in cooking or restaurant management, I only use three levels of quality in restaurants:

• Highly Recommended
• Recommended
• Mentioned

“Highly recommended” and “Recommended” are self-explanatory and “Mentioned” is saying that it is a good option, if needed or wanted.

On the Joie de vivre scale I have …

❤️❤️❤️ – a place that thrills me with great and personal service

❤️❤️ – a place that give me joy and pleasure

❤️ – a place that delivers perfectly fuzz-free on a professional level

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Not all restaurateurs have the ability to create the special atmosphere and joy that I really appreciate, but they are still on the list, and they will deliver …

In Denmark, it’s the master Jan Restorff at Söllerröd kro who really can play a refined and humorous game setting you in a lovely mood. The same goes for Damiano Alberti at Enomania – such a considerate and funny guy – god, I miss these places.

Bruno at Bar à Vins in Dijon … can do this if he is in the mood … take it or leave it.

In core Burgundy, we also have Ferme de la Rouchotte where Chef Frédéric Ménager can be a blessing beast … or Boisrouges where chef Philippe Delacourcelle sets the tone.

This is highly personal, but it reflects the amount of passion, perfectionism and personal involvement from the chef’s side … they do care … and in the end, you will get your ass kicked out if you don’t behave to the reasonable rules and politeness that should be observed by everyone … behave, for god damn sake – and enjoy.

They deliver the utmost in service and you need to respect this.