“Oronce de Beler is, regardless of how you look at it, a true Burgundy personality.”
This was my lead sentence when I wrote the article about him last year. This is even more at the top of mind this year, as he’s now also producing beer brewed partly with pinot noir.
He produces beer, cider, eggs, pork, and wine, based at his new (old) estate in the centre of Nuits-Saint-Georges. I most likely forgot other products and concepts, and while it could be confusing, he seems to have a strong ethos of quality linking his products.
Some of them are organic, others not, but all have an organic feeling – a hippie glow if you like. Good vibes, a feeling in which you want to join.
The pinot beer
The pinot noir-based Wild Ale is one of Orance’s new projects. It has beer flavours, but also light pinot notes, and honestly, I don’t have the vocabulary to describe the palate of this beer. Is it worth a try? Yes. Addicted? Not yet!
What are the Maison Romane wines?
These are what I would call hippie, slightly rebellious wines, with an intellectual glow that says we care, but don’t always show it!
They are not very precise wines, being low-sulphured and 100% whole cluster – let the free spirit rule!
It’s hard to make comparisons, and most likely I will end up offending someone. But after all, it’s just wine, so here we go!
De Beler’s wines are, style-wise, from the same school as Cossard and Pacalet, back when they were introduced 20 years ago. Yet they are less controlled, and sometimes quite a bit more on the wild side. Minor errors and imperfections are apparently acceptable, and sometimes the volatile acidity is on the high side; fine, if you don’t mind it!
The 2021 reds
The production volume in 2021 was low, and Oronce has struggled to produce a bare minimum of wine. Some usual wines were not produced at all, others in smaller quantities. So these are quite rare birds.
The quality, however, is surprisingly good, and the wines have a beautiful freshness and coolness. Presumably not the vintage of the decade, but a type of Burgundy I adore – more classically styled. I am amused, surprised, and delighted.
The first red is the Bourgogne Rouge 2021, this year coming from Meloisy in the hills behind Volnay and Pommard. A vin de soif, this has a hint of cinnamon and is vivid and forwardly expressive. Only 11% alcohol, hence light-footed, with a juicy feel. Very enjoyable for a vin de soif. The aromas are lighter and less warm than in 2020, ’19, and ’18.
(Drink from 2021) – Good+ (87p) – Tasted 30/06/2022 
A step up terroir-wise, the Côte de Nuits Villages 2021 comes from the Comblanchien terroir Les Loges. This is made from 80- to 90-year-old vines, yielding a generous, silky, and aromatic wine that’s richer than the Bourgogne Rouge thanks to the old-vine silkiness. A unique wine, this has some VA that actually makes it more interesting.
(Drink from 2025) – Very Good – (89p) – Tasted 30/06/2022 –
Next up, the Marsannay Longeroies 2021 comes from one of my favourite Marsannay terroirs. This is on the richer, more generous side, and is an energetic, light-footed Marsannay. It shows good energy, and the raspberry fruit is lively.
(Drink from 2026) – Very Good – (87-88p) – Tasted 30/06/2022 – 
Orance’s Fixin Les Clos 2021 is from the northern side of the village, and is a bit on the higher side VA-wise. Quite juicy for a Fixin, this shows loads of energy. It is a vin de soif, but one on the wild side, with vivid stance.
(Drink from 2026) – Very Good – (88p) – Tasted 30/06/2022 – 
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- A true vin d’émotion – a Burgundy of passion
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