Mr Wolber vintage 2023

I tasted the wines of Bastian Wolber for the first time in October 2022, and I already sensed back then that I was in the presence of a very promising vigneron.

As I claimed back then, give him some top vineyards – please! – and he will delight your palate and treat your hedonistic addictions wholeheartedly.

Always a treat to meet and chat to Bastian …

It is still early, the 2023 vintage is his second full production, having only produced a “bit” of wine in the preceding vintages.

Laisse Tomber

Bastian Wolber’s négociant business is called Laisse Tomber (meaning more or less “drop it,” but find your own interpretation). It reflects both humour and a willingness to challenge the world with new and exciting wines on Burgundy’s edge … the fascinating and challenging edge where great stuff is being made.

German origins

Bastian Wolber is, as his name suggests, originally from Germany. He was born in Staufen im Breisgau.

Bastian’s introduction to Burgundy came through his younger brother Christoph, who worked at some of the more prominent Burgundy estates. It was during Bastian’s visits to his brother in Burgundy that his passion for the region (and also the Jura) was born.

After doing harvests with Rudolph Trossen in the Mosel and Jean-Marc Dreyer in Alsace, Bastian found himself apprenticing at Ganevat in the Jura. Sadly, he broke his hand in a skateboard crash and had to leave Ganevat.

He returned to Germany and purchased organically farmed grapes from France and Germany, vinifying them at Wasenhaus at his brother Christoph’s estate, which he co-founded with Alexander Götze.

Bastian named his project “Laisse Tomber” – literally “let it fall,” a reference to the accident that started his winemaking adventure, instead of fulfilling his dream of working with Ganevat.

Laisse Tomber started out as a German project, first making wine in Baden. It has now expanded over the border to Burgundy, where Bastian found himself working for Jean-Yves Bizot, while also expanding his own production of wines made from bought organic or even biodynamic grapes from Burgundy, Alsace, and Germany.

His influences have been many, but to my palate, Jean-Yves Bizot has left a strong impression on Bastian Wolber. His first full vintages, 2022 and 2023, show a talent finding its focus.

After sharing a cellar in Auxey-Duresses with Chris Santini (Santini Frères), Jonathan Purcell (Vin Noé), and Morgane Seuillot & Christian Knott (Domaine Dandelion) in 2020, Wolber has now moved to Volnay, where he has a small estate above Pousse d’Or.

The style: carbonic and semi-carbonic reds

I am always extra aware when I find new talents that have a background at Domaine Bizot in Vosne-Romanée, as Jean-Yves Bizot produces some of the greatest and most mind-boggling Burgundies today. In more technical terms, these whole-cluster wines are made with semi-carbonic or even fully carbonic vinification depending on the duration of the carbonic process.

The vinification starts with a cool initial intracellular (inside-the-berry) fermentation controlled by temperature and added carbon dioxide, followed by a gradual crushing of the grapes over the ensuing days, normally using the feet.

This intracellular process releases special aromas, from floral components like roses to spicy aromas of allspice and cinnamon. On the palate, one gets a greater silkiness of texture. A lush, yet vivid representation of the exuberant fruit.

Tasting the 2022s on June 7, 2024

This is the framework for Bastian Wolber’s reds, and while the terroirs are relatively modest, the potential here for joy and hedonistic sensations is optimistic and positive. Points and drinkability are a matter of discussion, as the wines will keep, but a lot of the wines are not necessarily built for 30 years in the cellar. Drink now or within the first 5-10 years would be my advice …

The Gamays

First the Gamays …

The regular Gamay – from a 100-year-old vineyard in the southern Beaujolais on granitic soil – is a vin vif – my new category or expression … but vin de soif could be used here as well … it’s expressive and lively with spiky 2023 phenolics, giving it a lovely note – (Drink from 2024) – Very Good (87p) –

---

Next up, the Gamay/Pinot noir blend (passetoutgrain), from a co-plantation … fruity and vivid …. love the freshness … fine red fruit, and the VA is quite moderate judging from the tasting. The Gamay/Pinot from Flagey-Echézeaux is a bit more intense, but still with the vivid energy that makes gamay exciting and lively … (Drink from 2025) – Very Good (88p) –

---

Bastian and Laisse Tomber is on controlled ground, regarding vinification. German ground, if you like. Therefore, the wines are less prone to challenge your palate in a negative way … i.e. Volatile Acidity (VA). I can tolerate, and even enjoy, a controlled amount of VA, but I’m more sensitive to the reductive notes that quite often plague Gamays…

The Pinots

The Ladoix is quite a beauty … I do have a preference for this appellation as the acidity is often quite prominent, given the location. The 2023 is very pure and vivid, with a lovely depth. Not a big wine … but it sings … (Drink from 2025) – Very Good (88p) –

---

The Pernand Vergelesses 2023 is currently somewhat reduced and difficult to taste … potential looks good … (Drink from 2025) – Very Good (88p)

---

The Savigny-lès-Beaune 2023 is quite firmly structured with good concentration. Comes from very old vines … 100 years+ … very good potential when it unfolds… (Drink from 2025) – Very Good (88p) –

---

The Hautes Côtes de Beaune Montbatois, on the upper side of Pommard, is also showing very well. It is intense .. deep and with a fine energy. Lovely red fruit and intensity … a lovely wine … (Drink from 2025) – Very Good (87-88p) –

---

Even better is Bastian’s own Bourgogne rouge from “Pommard” located close by the Hautes Côtes de Beaune Montbatois. Even more energy and depth and the well-known hedonistic sparkle … Wow, I like this … (Drink from 2025) – Very Good (88p) –

You need to login as a Premium subscriber to read the rest of this article. If you are not a Premium Subscriber, use the subscribe function and sign-up.