A welcome return to Louis Dorry from Mâcon, and what a delightful revival of memories from earlier in 2021.
This time, Louis Dorry sent me both the Mâcon Milly-Lamartine Les Collonges 2019 and the even more interesting ’19 Mâcon-Bussières.
A good name, Louis Dorry
Louis Dorry is a young winegrower in the Mâconnais, and he produces Mâcon Milly-Lamartine and Mâcon-Bussières, both white.
He has a small domaine of a bit more than 3 hectares, and farms his grapes as qualitatively as possible – ploughing, no weed killers, etc. Vinification is done with indigenous yeasts, with fermentation generally lasting 4-6 months. Aging takes place for 11 months in barrel, followed by 11 months in tank.
Louis Dorrey Mâcon Milly-Lamartine 2019
The Milly-Lamartine 2019 is has another level of vivacity versus the 2018; it’s more lively and perhaps a tad more exotic in its mid-palate fruit. Yellow notes – even a hint of cloudberries – support a nice citrusy depth and liveliness. This is delicious, but will definitely improve with some time. It has a good backbone despite the acidity seeming to be rather modest. A real pleasure, this would for me work fine with some grilled, but not too fatty, fish. The energy and seductive notes give the 2019s a special hedonistic feel. Again in my mind, 9C-10C as the serving temperature would bring out the freshness and Mâcon minerality. Zalto Universal stems were used, and are recommended for this wine.
(Drink from 2024) – Very Good (88p) – Tasted 01/11/2021 –
Louis Dorrey Mâcon-Bussières 2019
While perhaps not bigger than the Milly-Lamartine, the vivid liveliness in the Bussières is ticking more boxes on my palate. The slightly fragile feel – lightness and delicacy – underscores a vibrant shift between lively, citrus-driven fruit, and deeper yellow fruit with an almost German structure. This is thoroughly impressive – merci! Good hedonistic qualities, and even a vin d’emotion.
(Drink from 2024) – Very Good (88-89p) – Tasted 01/11/2021 –
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