Visit to Mark Haisma – Tasting the 2022 Whites

Mark Haisma’s winery is in a new business park in Gilly-les-Citeaux, the same one that houses the prominent Domaine Laurent Ponsot. Not the most charming place in Burgundy, but the new buildings are certainly efficient.

I meet all kinds of winegrowers, and I appreciate them all if the wines are good. And the Haisma line-up impresses me, simple as that. These wines have more Burgundian character than a lot of other, older, native estates. Just sayin’.

I like the basics of Mark’s wines. Not all of them are my favourites, but the best offer quite a lot more of genuine “Burgundy” than many of the wines produced in nearby villages.

Here are my thoughts on the white 2022s, tasted on November 21.

Mark Haisma Aligoté 2020

The aligoté is from the Hautes Côtes de Nuits near Corboin. It’s a fresh wine, delicately juicy, with lovely tension and energy. A vivid aligoté with a slightly generous note, it is clearly 2022. 

(Drink from 2024) – Good – (87p)

---

Mark Haisma Mâcon 2022

Again, typically 2022: rich, quite tropical, but with (atypically) nice acidity. This is for me a food wine: pasta alla vongole or other shellfish dishes with plenty of garlic. I love the limestone minerality, although this is not a big or a great wine. But so what? Get it on the table!

(Drink from 2024) – Good+ – (87p) –

---

Mark Haisma Saint-Romain 2022

(Drink from 2027) – Very Good+ (88-89p)

You need to login as a Premium subscriber to read the rest of this article. If you are not a Premium Subscriber, use the subscribe function and sign-up. 

---