I have not visited Armand Heitz since 2018, due to logistical reasons and other trivial issues. A significant number of things have happened with Armand in the interim, including a new chateau and an important expansion of his production.
Armand Heitz has expanded in several areas, and while this is formidable, one can’t help but wonder if this, in a way, has impacted the focus on wine production. That said, Armand is now building a new cuverie, which could well indicate that more space is needed.
Expanding production to more than 200,000 bottles is not easily accomplished, although it seems that Armand Heitz has retained his core wines’ character, and found a healthy style – and quality level – for the lesser wines.
I shall focus here on the main cuvees, but will address some of the lesser ones if I find they have good hedonistic qualities.
Chateau Heitz
Armand Heitz acquired his château in Mimande, and it’s a lovely estate located a few kilometres east of Chassagne-Montrachet. He has a restaurant, guest house, and bed and breakfast. It’s possible to rent space for parties and meetings, and the offer is still expanding.
Let’s get to the notes!
The 2022 Heitz reds
The ’22 reds are lightly extracted and elegant, with fine drinkability. Some critics will perhaps decry a lack of oomph, or weight, but for my money, these wines work very well. That said, they are perhaps not the most precise, defined expressions of terroir, as low sulphur and a high percentage of whole clusters do not result in extremely defined wines.
Armand Heitz Beaune Boucherottes 2022
From the southern end of Beaune, just below Clos des Mouches, comes a ripe, light-footed wine for the vintage. This shows good freshness and the intense fruit typical of Armand Heitz. Delicious; I do like this.
(Drink from 2026) – Very Good – (89-91p) –
Armand Heitz Chassagne-Montrachet Morgeots 2022
The Chassagne Morgeots has really lively fruit; I really like red Chassagne. This is ripe and light-footed, although with good weight for a red Chassagne. With impressive depth, and while Morgeots is not the most refined wine in the world, this is delightful.
(Drink from 2029) – Fine – (91p) –
Armand Heitz Pommard Poutures 2022
The Pommard Poutures is showing well indeed, and it’s quite a notch up in concentration from the Morgeots. I love its depth, mid-palate richness, and delicacy; the extraction is perfectly judged. As usual, elegant and vivid, with nice Pommard appeal. This is the best red I tasted chez Heitz from 2022.
(Drink from 2028) – Fine+ – (91-93p) –
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