Visit to Château de Charodon – Tasting the White 2021s

The 2021 vintage was problematic, with all kinds of challenges in the vineyards. For the whites, the April frost killed all hope of a great vintage, as the chardonnay vines were further along in their development than the pinot, hence more susceptible to frost damage.

The result was a small harvest, with some wines missing completely and others reduced to fractions quantity-wise. The grapes harvested also showed clear signs of the difficult year. But, surprisingly (or perhaps not), some fine wines were made by those who had both viticulture and sorting completely under control.

Said directly: There were some surprisingly good wines made under bad circumstances.

Vinous background

Louis Vallet is like his wines: vivacious, but with much more control and delicacy than one would expect. He is both a serious and a talented winemaker, coming from his family’s Domaine Pierre Bourée. At some point, he will get vineyards from that estate, but as is so often the case in Burgundy, family disagreements seem to go on and on.

In the mean time, Louis Vallet has turned the page and started a negociant business in the buildings of his parental home, the Château de Charodon just outside Beaune in Montagny-les-Beaune.

There is little doubt that Louis Vallet will harvest the fruits of the family vineyards one day. But starting out here, other vineyards are in focus.

Louis learned his trade from people like Pascal Marchand, and I see qualities in the Château de Charodon wines influenced by Marchand’s visionary ideas. I also see influence from Bernard Zito, another prominent personality in Louis’ development as a vigneron.

These influences result in wines with generous, pure, mid-palate fruit; drinkability and enjoyability; and complexity without being over-engineered. They keep their simplicity, while revealing palpable potential. These are wines of high hedonistic quality, enjoyable yet controlled, despite higher sulphur levels in the reds.

Let’s taste the whites!

The whites are my favourites at Chateau de Charodon; they are elegant and lovely wines with gorgeous balance. Let’s see what Louis Vallet has made for us in 2021.

Château de Charodon Bourgogne Aligoté 2021

The Bourgogne Aligoté 2021 is showing beautifully. It’s classic yet modern style is refined, and quite fresh and vivid. The grapes come from the area around Bligny-les-Beaune, and the wine shows character. Two-thirds was vinified in stainless steel, the rest in oak.

(Drink from 2023) – Very Good – (87p) – Tasted 06/06/2023 –

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Château de Charodon Marsannay 2021

The Marsannay is showing very well in 2021. It comes from an area with white gravel in the soil, and if the year is cool, then good balance can be maintained. It’s lively and energetic with lovely freshness, spiciness, and a slightly lemony note.

(Drink from 2026) – Very Good – (88-89p) – Tasted 06/06/2023 –

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Château de Charodon Meursault 2021

The Meursault is rich and vivid, with delicate, bright fruit. This is an elegant wine with an enjoyable note that’s typical of the vintage with its slightly perfumed spiciness. A lovely wine.

(Drink from 2026) – Very Good – (89-90p) – Tasted 24/06/2022 –

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