Visit to Domaine Gérard Mugneret – Tasting the 2023s

We’re now well into November, and the second part of the 2023 wine-tasting season is starting to reveal some serious thoughts about the 2023 vintage.

In some cases, all is fine and dandy, in others, the knowledge of the vintage is enhanced and lastly, we sometimes do really find some of the weaknesses of the 2023 vintage.

At Domaine Gérard Mugneret, all is good and Pascal’s explanations of the vintage actually give a higher understanding of the vintage

Pascal Mugneret, Gérard’s son, runs the estate, and is a very friendly chap with an open mind who is very reflective regarding the vinification techniques that have been used and developed successively over the years.

I have tasted quite a few wines from Pascal, and have the impression that they have become more and more refined over the years. Put in a more cheerful way … I adore these wines.

Domaine Gérard Mugneret in short

Domaine Mugneret was founded by Eugène and his son René Mugneret. Eugène acquired the first vines, while René was the first in the family to start tending them.

René and his wife Lucienne had three children: Jean (b. 1938-2010), Jacqueline (b. 1946), and Gérard (b. 1948). Gérard began making wine on his own in 1973, but a portion of the domaine’s production used René’s labels until 1986, and the estate was expanded with the addition of new parcels (notably Savigny-lès-Beaune Les Gravains and Chambolle-Musigny Les Charmes).

Pascal Mugneret, whose first vinification was in 2005, is the current winemaker and owner. From the domaine’s web site:

“Pascal grew up in the midst of the vines and cellar. After studying subjects unrelated to vines or wine (with a technical degree in measurements and physics from Reims, plus studies at the School of Material Engineering in Dijon), he worked in manufacturing (as a production manager and chief of project productivity) before he felt the urge to return to his origins. In early 2004 he enrolled at the CFPPA of Beaune, then interned in the vineyards and cellar of Domaine Jacques Girardin in Santenay.”

Organic, with biodynamic preparations

Herbicides were abandoned as early as 2006, and today, biodynamic preparations are considered or used. The work in both vines and cellar is planned according to the lunar calendar.

Tasting the 2023s – November 8th, 2024

During my tasting of the 2022s, I might have been a bit on the firm or strict side … and the 2023s are more on the average side rating wise … hence, the 2023s are looking better than the 2022s. I am not so sure about this exact balance … different, yes, but also very evenly balanced.

Domaine Gérard Mugneret Poupre 2023

Quite intense, open, and vivid. This is delicate and includes 70% Gamay while being vinified with 60% whole clusters. With rich and lovely liveliness, and the old vines give a natural generosity. This is a beautiful wine, with plenty of hedonistic stuffing … drinks very well.

(Drink From 2025) – Good (86-87p) –

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Domaine Gérard Mugneret Bourgogne Pinot Noir 2023

Pascal Mugneret produces two Bourgogne rouges; this is the lighter and more forward one. Lively and intense with a lovely acidity … intense and a lot of vin de soif pleasure. I adore it for its simplicity.

(Drink From 2025) – Good (87p) –

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Domaine Gérard Mugneret Bourgogne Les Rouges Champs 2023

From 60-year-old vines below the Clos de Vougeot. Quite a bit deeper and more intense than the regular Bourgogne rouge. Deeper and riper … intense … juicier and vivid with a nice hedonistic glow.

(Drink From 2025) – Good+ (87-88p) –

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Domaine Gérard Mugneret Savigny-lès-Beaune Aux Gravains 2023

The Savigny is quite reduced currently and needs time to unfold. Would be unfair to be harsh on this reduction as it will clearly pass during élevage. But at the moment …

(Drink From 2030) – Very Good (89p)

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Domaine Gérard Mugneret Gevrey-Chambertin Les Murots 2023

The Murots come from the bottom part of Gevrey on the east side of the road. It shows a lovely integration of the oak … not the most complex of wines, but the joy is there. And for a Vosne Gevrey, it is giving me a lot of pleasure.

(Drink From 2030) – Fine (89p) –

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Domaine Gérard Mugneret Vosne-Romanée Cuvée Quatrain 2023

Since 2016, Pascal has produced several different village wines from Vosne. The first is the north/south cuvée, including terroirs Les Ormes and Les Jalandins in the north and Reas and Jaquines in the south of the appellation. This is an open, expressive interpretation of a Vosne village. Not the most complex, but it does provide the Vosne joy.

(Drink From 2031) – Very Good (90p) –

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Domaine Gérard Mugneret Vosne-Romanée Aux Vigneux 2023

This year, this cuvée is also darker, deeper, and more defined. A bit serious, and not as expressive as the two other villages. As I wrote about the 2022 – the vines from the 1950s yield an interesting wine that needs both time and reflection.

(Drink From 2034) – Very Good (90p) –

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Domaine Gérard Mugneret Vosne-Romanée Cuvée Précolombière 2023

This is the expressive village, vivid, with a delicate, open style. I love the flamboyant display of fruit combined with the complexity, which is tremendous for this level. A lovely cuvée that was created to show the best of Vosne village. My hedonistic treasure amongst the villages.

(Drink From 2034) – Fine (91-92p) –

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