The Meursault Les Perrieres 2007 from Chateau de Puligny-Montrachet is quite forward and developed .. but showing well. The nose is crammed with yellow fruit – notes of apples and hazelnuts spiced with a discrete citrus infused minerality. On the palate rich, quite intense and weighty with a nice vibrant acidity … good energy and balance. A very good wine … but quite developed … and somehow a bit disappointing for the terroir and the vintage..
Sadly quite premoxed … however not totally undrinkable.
Need to mention that Etienne de Montille is one of the few producers who has been quite open and forward about the premox problems. He really deserves some credit for his open approach … others could learn a great deal from this … no need to mention names!
The Meursault 2010 from Chateau de Puligny Montrachet is a big and rich village Meursault. In the nose expansive yellow fruit … with fresh orchard notes – white peach, hint of pineapple and a hint of browned butter. On the palate quite rich fruit for this level – considerable midpalate weight with a long mineral and citrus infused finish. It’s quite dense but well balanced by the powerful and vibrant acidity. Not quite at the same level as the Montille whites – but has impowed considerably. A rich village Meursault … slightly on the dense side for my plalate – but it has it’s moments with the crisp and quite nervy 2010 acidity.
The Nuits-Saint-Georges Clos des Grades Vignes from Chateau de Puligny Montrachet is a lovely effort – from this somewhat overlooked 1er cru. In the bouquet fine red fruit with cherries, raspberries and a lovely core of sweet strawberries – some slightly floral and reduced notes – but a lovely nose. On the palate fine quite airy fruit for a 2009. Good midpalate concentration, with quite a tannic grip and a fine core of delicate sweet fruit. The finish is long and quite intense offering good minerality. A very good and attractive Nuits-Saint-Georges with a fine expression of terroir. Looking forward to see what Louis-Michel Liger-Belair can make from this vineyard – from the 2012 vintage.
The Chevalier Montrachet 2007 from Chateau de Puligny Montrachet was surprisingly accessible when tasted from a magnum at Gustavs Bistro in Copenhagen. Very crisp bouquet, with a slight citrus note. Very tight and focused in the nose, with the oak not totally integrated in the fruit. On the palate more accessible, with some creamy notes of fruit playing with the oak. Fine core of fruit and a nice balance. Need time, but was nevertheless a real pleasure. A very fine effort from Etienne de Montille
(Drink From 2017) Very Fine – 93p
Tasted 09/11/2011 – Magnum tasting at Gustavs Bistro
The Folatieres 2004 from Chateau de Puligny Montrachet was a pleasent surprise. Wonderful fresh bouquet with beginning mature chardonnay notes combined with a fine minerality and acidity – 2004 at it’s best. Very fine balance with good mature flavors and a excellent freshness. Still not fully mature, but a pure pleasure now. Given the producer and the premox problems I would drink these while they are still fresh.
(from 2011) Fine – 91p
The Montrachet 2000 from Chateau de Puligny Montrachet was made before Etienne de Montille took over the vinification in 2001. The wine is aproaching maturity, with mature notes in both bouquet and on the palate. Quite heavy and a little tired in the fruit – not a masterpeice. Lacks the vibrant acidity and charm of the best wines from the top produceres. The Montrachet terroir does a good job, and is keeping this wine interesting, but in the end the lack of freshness and charm is pulling the wine down.
(Drink now) Fine – 92p
Tasting and rating wine is not exact science … and therefore I prefer to use a scale that reflects that wine is a living organism and that a wine can taste like 94 points one day … and 93 the next day … depending on the moon, the glass, temperature and or my mood!
I therefore use my own rating system here at Winehog.org – a rating system inspired by some of the British wine reviewers but adapted to my view on the Burgundy wines.
The end of points
I have been using the 100 point scale for two decades, and the problems using this scale became more and more apparent during the work with winehog.org. It’s very hard .. or perhaps even impossible to truly consistent ratings with a scale like the 100 points scale.
I therefore changed to my own scale … but still translates my ratings to points … as a service to the readers who prefer the 100 point scale.
The potential is defined by the terroir
The quality or the potential of a wine is in my view defined by the terroir as the complexity and depth in the wine comes from the terroir – that’s the essence of Burgundy – and that’s why Burgundy is so interesting, intriguing and sometimes even frustrating.
It’s very important to note that only the very best terroirs can merrit a top rating. If we look at the best 1er crus – they can indeed rival a lot of the lesser grand cru wines, but it’s very rare to find a 1er cru that can merrit an outstanding rating. And while the best village wines can be fine, they are still village wines – and can almost never merrit a “very fine” rating.
Here is the winehog.org rating system:
- Very Fine
- Very Good
- Above Average
- Below Average
The winehog rating system – converted to points
As mentioned I have indeed used the 100 point scale for many years, and to me it feels natural but sadly also somewhat limiting for work. But as a service to the readers I normally convert the winehog rating to points or a point interval for the readers who prefer this system.
Winehog rating system with the point equivalence:
- Legendary – (99 – 100p)
- Extraordinary – (97 – 98p)
- Outstanding – (95 – 96p)
- Very Fine – (93 – 94p)
- Fine – (91 – 92p)
- Very Good – (88 – 90p)
- Good – (85 – 87p)
- Above Average – (80 – 84p)
- Average – (75 – 79p)
- Below Average – (70 – 74p)
- Poor – (50 – 69p)
… enjoy the wines … and forget the points and ratings!