Maison Thiriet: tasting some 2019s and 2020s

We journalists (or should I say the Winehog) like logical, coherent explanations and stories, as they fit into our preconceived and structured world.

Many producers live up to this preference, with logically rounded portfolios of wines. We rarely we see producers going off the grid and defying normal Burgundian logic.

Camille Thiriet is, however, not your everyday producer. And while I have been at the Thiriet estate before, I did not fully understand the logic of Camille’s world of wine – or rather the apparent lack of logic.

Camille Thiriet is a woman with true grit, real passion, and perseverance – and she sometimes doesn’t follow Burgundy’s rules and conventions. I must admit I find this both charming and brave, as I know from personal experience that this is not always without cost.

If one sees potential financial return from producing wines in Burgundy these days, then more chances should be taken and experiments done. This is what develops the region and could eventually prepare Burgundy for an even hotter future. And this is what Camille has done.

I did a longer article about her estate after my last visit – see HERE.

The white 2020s, and some 2019s in bottle

Maison Camille Thiriet Aligote 2020

From two areas one above Pommard with Aligote Doré, and one in Comblancien/Corgoloin. Together they have a ripe, fruity character – true aligote flavours, with delicate yet spicy fruit. I love the expression: a modern but still classical aligote. Well done, Camille.

(Drink from 2022) – Very Good – (88p) – Tasted 10/05/2021 –

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Maison Camille Thiriet Bourgogne Blanc

The Bourgogne blanc – so far called Cuvée Confidentielle – has changed region and is now made from grapes coming from the Chablis area. This changes the style of the wine somewhat, but the difference can also partly be explained by the cooler style of the 2020 vintage. The grapes are 100% Petit Chablis in origin, and the wine shows fine acidity and lively fruit. With evident salinity and delicate fruit, it is open and vivid, benefitting from 80% barrel fermentation, 20% stainless steel, and 20% new oak. So different, but with some of the same qualities found in the 2019 Cuvée Confidentielle. Chablis was a good choice, in my view.

(Drink from 2022) – Good – (87p) – Tasted 10/05/2021

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Maison Camille Thiriet Saint-Romain 2020

The Saint-Romain is not showing at the moment. Somewhat reduced and not provoking much interest from the ‘Hog’s snout yet. Need to re-taste later if possible.

NR

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Maison Camille Thiriet Vézelay 2020

The 2020 Vézelay is cooler, with a more classical stance. Delicate fruit and a magnificent mid-palate feel make the wine lively and more harmonic than the richer 2019 version. I love what appears to be perfect phenolic ripeness. This is a hedonistic treat.

(Drink from 2022) – Very Good – (88p) – Tasted 10/05/2021 –

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And the 2019s…

Maison Camille Thiriet Aligote 2019

The 2019 Aligote is richer and more exuberant than the 2020, yet nevertheless has good balance and hedonistic traits. It will demand more robust or spicy food. The lovely spiciness from the Aligote Dore grape is always a treat – if you like aligote. I love it, and prefer when the natural characteristics of the grape are apparent in the wine, like here. This makes the wine more exciting and better with food.

(Drink from 2022) – Very Good – (87-88p) – Tasted 10/05/2021

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Maison Camille Thiriet Vezelay 2019

Vézelay is a discreet wine. Or should I call it hedonistic, as it has some very joyful traits, including harmonic mid-palate fruit and background minerality. This is hotter and richer than the 2020, yet delicate and sensual due to the slight hint of cloudberries often associated with the 2019 vintage. Enjoyable, and the chalky notes remind me of the famous abbey rising over the Vézelay landscape.

(Drink from 2022) – Very Good – (87-88p) – Tasted 10/05/2021 –

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Maison Camille Thiriet Arbois 2019

I am not an expert in Arbois, although the 2019 is more on my home turf as it has less residual sugar than the somewhat flamboyant 2018. I do like the expression of these wines – perfumed and chalky with a nice caramel hint. Classic savagnien? I wouldn’t know. Do I like it? Yes, although the hedonistic feel of the more generous 2018 was better for ‘Hogs.

(Drink from 2022) – NR – Tasted 10/05/2021

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