Sometimes we see the world as static, and believe that major changes to the Burgundy scene are rare and almost all historic. This is, however, not always the case.
Rumors are, however, rumbling in Burgundy, and while its current structure seems old, well-known domaines are not as ancient and established as all that. D’Eugenie is not yet 20 years old and Domaine Leroy is only just older than 30. Things do change, and the current prices of vineyards and wines are of course driving this process.
To my point: Domaine Lamarche is being divided, and Nathalie Lamarche will transfer her share of the estate to Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair. Changes like this have happened many times in Burgundy’s history.
Nicole Lamarche will continue Domaine Lamarche with the remaining vineyards, and while it will be significantly smaller, Lamarche can still be a strong player on the Vosne-Romanée stage. Yes, it is a painful process … but in the end and in the long run unavoidable – sadly.
The change comes into effect next year, so both the 2020s and ’21s will represent the full vineyard portfolio.
From 2022, however, Nicole will lose plots in Grands Echezeaux, Vosne-Romanée Les Malconsorts and La Croix Rameau. Furthermore, she will lose a part of the vines in Clos de Vougeot, Echezeaux, and Vosne-Romanée Les Suchots.
With all that in mind, to the 2020s.
Lamarche and the 2020s
The 2020 vintage should suit the Lamarche style well, as it has both intensity and structural acidity, both sometimes weaker points in the Lamarche wines. The key will be keeping that tension and energy through bottling. We shall see who delivers the goods.
The intense acidity does introduce delightful energy to the Lamarche wines, so let’s take a closer look at them.
Domaine Lamarche Bourgogne 2020
The Bourgogne rouge has just been bottled, and it’s fresh and forward, offering good energy and tension. The mid-palate is not ultra sharp, but it is drinking well.
(Drink From 2022) – Good (86p) – Tasted 10/11/2021
Domaine Lamarche Vosne-Romanée 2020
The Vosne-Romanée village is quite lively, with nice intensity and tension. Slightly reduced, the oak is a bit forward in the wine currently. It could do with a bit more focus, but to be fair, it was somewhat difficult to evaluate due to the reduction.
(Drink From 2030) – Very Good (88-89p) – Tasted 10/11/2021 from cask
Domaine Lamarche Vosne-Romanée Les Chaumes 2020
Perfumed and forward, with charming fruit, this is light-footed, with notes of peony and red roses. A nice Chaumes in the making.
(Drink From 2030) – Fine (89-91p) – Tasted 10/11/2021 from cask
Domaine Lamarche Vosne-Romanée Les Suchots 2020
The Suchots is deeper and darker, and lacking a bit of energy on the mid-palate. It’s a rather severe wine, and its intense fruit is not really unfolding at the moment.
(Drink From 2032) – Fine (90-91p) – Tasted 10/11/2021 from cask
Domaine Lamarche Vosne-Romanée La Croix Rameau 2020
La Croix Rameau is an exciting but rather unknown terroir located below Romanée Saint-Vivant. It’s an interesting vineyard, and the wine is characterised by a lovely perfumed scent and spicy expression. This version is slow to unfold, but one can surely feel the potential here.
(Drink From 2033) – Fine (90-91p) – Tasted 10/11/2021 from cask
Domaine Lamarche Vosne-Romanée Les Malconsorts 2016
The is a significant step up in intensity and complexity, and the phenolic ripeness is more complete here, setting the wine free with nice mid-palate fruit and lovely core complexity. It has good intensity and tension currently.
(Drink From 2032) – Very Fine (92-93p) – Tasted 10/11/2021 from cask – 
Domaine Lamarche Nuits-Saint-Georges Les Cras 2020
Les Cras is an interesting mineral stronghold, with lovely mid-palate fruit, but it rarely shows its charms in youth. This is a wine for connoisseurs and Cras fans who have the patience to wait. It has lovely acidity and tension, so let’s wait and see.
(Drink From 2032) – Fine (91-92p) – Tasted 10/11/2021 from cask –
Domaine Lamarche Echezeaux 2020
The Echezeaux has good intensity from its acidity, which here plays a structural role. A bit on the serious side, and with quite some oomph, it perhaps lacks a bit of energy and verve. Time will tell how fast it unfolds.
(Drink From 2032) – Very Fine (92-93p) – Tasted 10/11/2021 from cask
Domaine Lamarche Clos Vougeot 2020
The Clos Vougeot is deep, quite dense, and relatively weighty, with typical 2020 intensity. It shows fine perfumed notes despite some slight reduction. A serious wine – like many 2020s – this will need time to fully reveal itself, but strikes me as rather classic.
(Drink From 2032) – Very Fine+ (93-94p) – Tasted 10/11/2021 from cask
Domaine Lamarche Grands Echezeaux 2020
The Grands Echezeaux is also slightly reduced, and is a big, intense wine, clearly bigger than the Echezeaux. The fruit is darker and has lovely spiciness, and again will need time. This is a great terroir in the vintage, with its deep and relatively dark fruit, although this version perhaps lacks the tension to put it amongst the greatest examples.
(Drink From 2032) – Very Fine (93-94) – Tasted 10/11/2021 from cask
Domaine Lamarche La Grande Rue 2020
La Grande Rue 2020 is a definitive step up in intensity, and displays beautiful ripeness. It’s vivid, energetic, and really shows its Vosne spiciness. This is nicely perfumed with notes of roses and peony, and is really singing in this vintage. Well done.
(Drink From 2034) – Outstanding (94-95p) – Tasted 10/11/2021 from cask – 
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